Tools, Services, and Equipment Available to the Club (1 Viewer)

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Tony_Farson

Club President, Battle Born Cruisers
GOLD Star
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Threads
213
Messages
1,567
Location
Reno, NV
Website
battleborncruisers.com
Gents! I am offering my resources to the club. I don't have a lot and chances are many of you have better things, but I figured I'd put it out there just in case...

I just ordered an abrasive blaster that shoots both soda and coarse media like walnuts, glass, etc. I already have a compressor, so if anyone wants or needs some stuff blasted, hit me up. I can load it up and bring it to your place if you have a bigger project to blast. All I ask is that you buy your own media. I can help with disassembly and masking too.

I also have a 20ft aluminum equipment trailer with an 8K winch installed, so I can haul anything up to 8,500lb and I am HAPPY to help anyone in the club with moving vehicles. I will just need gas money and lodging for longer trips of course.

I have a 1 ton cherry picker, jacks, jack stands, and full mechanic's tool set complete with a mini fridge with beer installed :beer::love:

I am preparing to blast and paint my 40 probably in May or June and ended up at Reno Paint Mart where they spent a few hours helping me mix color samples for about $30! Very good customer service and they have just about everything you would need to do body work and paint, so I thought I'd pass the info along.
 
I am planning on painting BeBe (my FJ60) this spring as well. Have pretty much decided on the color but still waiting to see how close the paint shop can match. Originally wanted the Rustoleum Deep Slate color but since they do not make it in gallon size I will have to find something that matches based on what is available. Local shop can mix Nason Farm Implement paint in multiple colors and I found one that looks similar but will have to get a quart to play with on my spare door (and practice spraying).

Here is the Deep Slate on my spare drivers door after I rattle canned with about 2 cans and then polished/buffed with a HF da polisher and some level 5 fine cut Meguiars.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

This was after wet sanding 500, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2k over a couple of nights. You can see a few spots where I burned through on the edges but this was my first time wet sanding a curved surface so completely new learning process.
 
@Tony_Farson why are you planning to blast the 40? Might want to reconsider as blasting will heat the panels and can potentially warp them. If your paint is in semi decent shape just use the red scotch-brites and score the top coat good then primer over that. Why go all the way down to bare metal?
 
@Tony_Farson why are you planning to blast the 40? Might want to reconsider as blasting will heat the panels and can potentially warp them. If your paint is in semi decent shape just use the red scotch-brites and score the top coat good then primer over that. Why go all the way down to bare metal?

I thought of that. Problem is that there are DEEP cracks (see pics below) in the paint on the hood that will eventually begin to chip and lift, and I don't want to have to deal with it later. Honestly, the hood and a few spots on the back of the tub where I see POs have painted over rust are the only places I am worried about, so they will probably be where I focus my blasting efforts. My fear is that the PO's have painted over rust in other areas and it is just eating away at the metal under the paint.

However, all my knowledge is based on forum reads, TV car shows and you tube vids, I've never blasted or painted (lined) a vehicle in my life. What I know for sure is that once I lay down the liner, it is a PITA to get it off again, so I don't want to worry about it flaking or coming up in a few years due to poor prep. This stuff is supposed to last upwards of 10 years if done well, so that is what I'm shooting for.


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Oh great... strange though because the underside isn't damaged. The sheet doesn't look thick enough to hide damage from the under side. I guess we will see what we see when I blast it all down to metal.

Maybe I will have to buy another hood. I won't paint over the bondo.

Thanks for the info @rusty_tlc !
 
Yeah was gonna say that paint doesn’t crack like that unless there is bad filler below it. You can take a da grinder with a abrasive pad (buddy calls them hamburgers, not flap discs) to the areas and see what is going on below with cutting into the metal.
 

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