Tire Deflation...

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Willius

Willius

Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Threads
13
Messages
100
Location
West Seattle, WA
Let me start with..... I really do not know much about any of them. So, take my opinion with a grain of salt. I also hope others will pipe in and give thier opinion and set me correct.

I recently just bought one of these to see how it works:

02. Mil-Spec Multi Choice Deflator- Standard Series

After looking at all the options out there I chose this one because it has preset values and it is a simple twist and the pressue you want is set. It really follows the KISS concept. I have not actually used it yet. I just got it last week.

I was close to getting the Staun set. A lot of people gave them really good reviews. I just didnt like the way you have to set them and you dont really have options to choose other PSI settings without going through a pretty cumbersome process (to me anyway). I did like the fact you get (4) deflators and you can put one on move to the next tire and by the time you work your way around the car the first tire should be about deflated so you just do two laps around and are done.

The ARB is also a nice one and I like the idea of the guage. And the price is great.

Again, all of this is from my own research, no actual use.

The one I gav you the link to IS pricy.... But the simplicity of it is what sold me on it.

Hope this helps and others help you make the right choice.
 
I have had the Stauns a few years now and really like them. Once you calibrate them they are very repeatable The best part is that all you have to do is put them on and kick back for a few minutes while they do the work.
 
If you only have one set of tires go with the Stauns. If you have more than one set (i.e. trail & street tires) then get the Stauns and the ARB deflator.

BTW, when you calibrate your Stauns use a bicycle, motorcycle or lawn tractor to set them on as it will save you the hassle of airing up a large tire multiple times.
 
got the Stauns

have them set up to 15, 20, 25, and 30. Plenty of choices for my stuff.

works great for me.
 
I have the Stauns and the ARB. I thought the Stauns were cool when I got them. using them the first time was a pain but after that it was fine. But ever since I got the ARB I never took the Stauns out again. Something about having the gauge makes me feel better. Plus I think its faster removing the core thru the ARB then just deflating using the Stauns.
 
IMHO a screwdriver type core remover and a pencil type tire gauge are the quickest, easiest way to get the job done. I carry them full time in the console. About half of our group uses this method, we air down, then stand around waiting for the rest to get done putzin with their toys.:hillbilly:
 
I have both and they both server a purpose. I love the staun as you can screw them on and start down the trail. Take them off at the first stopping point. I have the ARB for using on a second truck and helping others. Not all truck want to go down to the same point so your Stauns are great if its just you with one truck.
 
Tools R Us said:
IMHO a screwdriver type core remover and a pencil type tire gauge are the quickest, easiest way to get the job done. I carry them full time in the console. About half of our group uses this method, we air down, then stand around waiting for the rest to get done putzin with their toys.:hillbilly:
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and carry either lots of spare cores or a big magnifying glass also, right? :D
 
REKCUT said:
I have both and they both server a purpose. I love the staun as you can screw them on and start down the trail. Take them off at the first stopping point. ...
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The effectiveness of this depends on your definition of wheeling and the design of the wheels. For tooling along dirt roads it works, but stock type wheels with the stems sticking out the sides, they better be off before obstacles are encountered. Have twice seen where they were removed by rock, didn't end well, once tore the stem in half, the other pulled it out, in both cases the deflation toys was destroyed.

e9999 said:
and carry either lots of spare cores or a big magnifying glass also, right? :D
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I have dropped a core a couple of times, don't think I have ever lost one? Always carry spares, it's not a big deal, when at the tire store, mention that you wheel and ask, they have always pointed to a huge bucket of caps/cores and said take what you want. In our group, by far the most often lost item has been caps regardless of method.
 
Most of the places I have wheeled involve a short drive down some kind of trail before we encounter an obsticle. Very rarely do we pull in at a spot where you have to start spotting from the trail head on. This is where they are handy as you can screw them on and jump in line on your way to the first stopping spot.( as in the first place a truck has to slow down to negotiate a difficult spot and the rest all check up like 5 oclock traffic) I never ment this to suggest that you actually wheel with them in place.
 
I have the Stuans and a set of THESE
I prefer the $10 set, they are basically like pulling the valve core without the hassle and chance of cross threading. I wait a half a minute between starting each tire then just make a circuit around the truck checking them. A bonus of this is I tend to spend more time checking stuff like TRE's, steering arm nuts, and u-bolts.

I have two problems with the Stuans;
1- I air down to different pressures for different terrian and conditions basically every trip.
2- They don't work worth squat in extreme hot or cold weather. I wound up airing up before I could even start one snow run.
I just thought of a third reason I don't like Stuans. I have three trucks, for half the price of one set of Stuans I can get a set of the cheap ones for each truck.
 
A cheap alternative, which is entirely manual, is the QuickAIR deflator from Sun Performance Products. Screw them on and they start deflating, you can put a tire gauge on them until the desired pressure is reached, and then unscrew them. Simple, reliable, and only $12.
QuickAIR-Deflator.webp
 
I have both the Staun's and the ARB unit. I prefer removing the valve core and checking the pressure with a low pressure gauge. Way faster than either of the other units, but you have to stay on it. Takes about a minute per tire to go from 35 to 10 psi.
 
REKCUT said:
Most of the places I have wheeled involve a short drive down some kind of trail before we encounter an obsticle. Very rarely do we pull in at a spot where you have to start spotting from the trail head on. This is where they are handy as you can screw them on and jump in line on your way to the first stopping spot.( as in the first place a truck has to slow down to negotiate a difficult spot and the rest all check up like 5 oclock traffic) I never ment this to suggest that you actually wheel with them in place.
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Agree, I don't think they intended to wheel with them on. It was more like, BSing on the radio, get to the first obstacle, more BSing, watching, spotting, etc, your turn, psss :censor:. If you like them, just make sure they are off before the first obstacle, hold the case in your hand, whatever.

For me the pull the core method works better, is faster and my air down psi varies depending on trail conditions, etc. The valve core is a huge flow restriction removing them is the fastest way to get the air out short of cutting the tire.:hillbilly: Also it depends on tire size, when I ran small tires it wasn't much of a deal, with bigger tires I wanted something faster.
 
Hi All:

I have used one of those QuickAir devices for years. It is simple and does the job.

That said, I have a set of the Staun deflators that I have never been able to get to work worth a darn! :frown:

I got one of the ARB deflators last spring and have been happy with how it performs. Once the valve is fully removed from the tire stem it deflates very quickly! :D

Regards,

Alan




cartercd said:
A cheap alternative, which is entirely manual, is the QuickAIR deflator from Sun Performance Products. Screw them on and they start deflating, you can put a tire gauge on them until the desired pressure is reached, and then unscrew them. Simple, reliable, and only $12.
Click to expand...
 
  • 4 Husky Compressor drain cocks (Home Depot) - $13
PN:
HUSKY
1/4 In. Drain Cock
Model HDA71000AV
Store SKU # 826047
Internet # 169706
Catalog # 100095680


Drill a 7/16" hole, and Tap with a ¼” NPT tap.

Now you have a thumb screw drain cock to air down while monitoring tire pressure on the valve stem. Works fast, works sweet, and does not break the bank.



​
DSCF0014.webp
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cranky steve said:
  • 4 Husky Compressor drain cocks (Home Depot) - $13
PN:
HUSKY
1/4 In. Drain Cock
Model HDA71000AV
Store SKU # 826047
Internet # 169706
Catalog # 100095680


Drill a 7/16" hole, and Tap with a ¼” NPT tap.

Now you have a thumb screw drain cock to air down while monitoring tire pressure on the valve stem. Works fast, works sweet, and does not break the bank.



​
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nice!

rebalance, I assume?
 
e9999 said:
nice!

rebalance, I assume?
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Depends. I did it before I balanced. They don't weigh much. I'd run it and see how it felt

I balanced after i added the Inchworm double beadlock screws. poured the exact weight in bb's in the drain cock hole the balancer called for, Worked like a charm.

For less than $200 i had a set of 4 15x10 double beadlocks with a trick air down system.

Hardware stores are full of cheep tricks :idea:
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