Timing belt ?'s, 89 3VZ-E 3.0 (1 Viewer)

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I wanted to start another, general question thread to try and get my misc questions answered as I progress with this job (and possibly help others in the future).

My question now, does the intake plenum need to come off to get to the center idler? This is the idler between the cam pulley/sprockets.
 
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Joined
Feb 21, 2013
Messages
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Kalispell, MT
I pulled the intake plenum. Pain in the butt with all the vacuum lines, etc. I just pushed it to the side, didn't take everything off. I probably should take it off and get it boiled out. It's pretty nasty.

Anyway, I don't know how you would get the idler off any other way. Fortunately I had already planned on removing it as I'm doing the valve cover gaskets too. I just like to compartmentalize each job that's why I was asking about the necessity of removing the plenum.
 
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Interesting that my TB kit doesn't come with the gasket for the center idler pulley...

I examined the old belt very carefully and cannot find a manufacture or any marks what-so-ever. Do Toyota belts have printing on them? I'm having a hard time telling if this motor has ever been apart. Many of the bolts are putting up a heck of a fight, most look (threads) brand new once removed.

Made more progress this afternoon. The old gasket material is putting up a real fight! It's slow-going at this point. Just cleaning and getting everything ready for re-assembly. Worst part of the job!
 
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Got the belt on but something seems odd...

I have everything lined-up perfectly but after I release tension on the tensioner and do my two CW rotations the lines on the belt have moved. That is, each full rotation moves the line on the belt one tooth to the left. I don't understand this. The marks on the pulley all line up again up top and the dist rotor is pointed in the right direction but the line up lines on the crankshaft/oil pump are off.

Any help?
 
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More research (Yotatech) has yielded an answer to this latest question. Apparently this is normal (line on the belt moving) and the way it's designed. Think about it this way, if the belt ran in the same exact position all the time the wear would not be even. If there was a small burr or other anomally it would wear on the belt in the same spot and ultimately compromise the belt.

I still need to look at the crank position as I don't like that moving.

Also, the water outlet rubber gasket is not available from Toyota (or anyone else). You can get one if you buy a complete outlet pipe but otherwise I was told by the Toy techs that they just put silicon there.

Hope to have another update soon with a running truck again!
 
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Mostly back together now.

I had to back the belt up one notch on the crank (before the mark on the oil pump). I think this has to do with the way the tensioner takes up the slack. Before, I would line everything up, rotate two times and it would be off on the bottom. So I basically precessed the belt one tooth and now it's spot-on.

As soon as Mr Brown gets here tmrw I hope to be cranking it over!
 
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Everything is back together and she runs great. I wish I could say it had a lot more power (LOL) but it's all good. I do hope to see a slight improvement in mileage. It's already nice not having the burning oil smell from the leaky valve covers. A big job but in the end very doable shade-tree style.

I hope this thread helps others in the future...
 

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