Ticking options -- Doug Thorley Long Headers + 2007 GX470 (1 Viewer)

[erkelbot]

I have, what I think are bad exhaust manifolds. I get ticking under load (moreso on the passenger side) between 2K-3.5K, and suspect the manifolds are either cracked or the gaskets need to be replaced. To that end, I'm looking at options... As far as I know, I could do the following:

• Pull things apart and fix the problem. That would mean welding what's there, or just replacing gaskets. Guess thing this somewhat costly at a shop for just labor, but no crazy parts costs.
• Pull things apart and replace -- OEM or DT. Much more costly, but a "permanent" fix. DT is more cost effective, but I've read there are moderate fitment issues (see questions below).
• Cover up the ticking and add a CB exhaust that growls a bit more. No, this is not fixing the problem, but it does sort of fix the problem as far as my ear is concerned. Cheaper, pretty much bolt on. Has anyone done this?

For those who went the route of DT headers, these questions are for you. I tried doing a few searches, but I'm not able to easily get to the truth.

• How bad will this install be? I've read 8 hours, and that the driver's side will be bad, but should I also be worried about broken bolts/studs? The truck came from GA, but was shared sporadically in MN until I got it last fall. For a 2007, it's in better than average shape for surface rust on the undercarriage. I have 149K on the clock. I'll be bringing it into a shop instead of attempting myself, but want to know how much downside there might be when the bill comes due.
• Should I get the long or the short headers? I have the Hewitt kit installed to bypass the AI, and I've read varying accounts for how to treat it/if it works to simply use the blocker plates. Any sage advice would be helpful here. I'm looking for an easier install, but also a proper one.
• Will the DT headers bolt into the OEM exhaust parts? I don't want to replace the CB yet (still a lot of life in the OEM stuff), but want things to fit together right. What parts do I need from DT to make this work right? I also want to future-proof it so I can easily install a CB when the time comes, which it will.

Thanks everyone. Sorry for the litany of questions.

 

[erkelbot]

Nada?

 

[subspd]

i don’t have this issue.... yet. But would like to hear others thoughts as well. It seems that the DT long tube would be the way to go from what I have read.

 

[Squirrelmaster]

I don't have input either, but I do have a cracked manifold and am curious about this topic as well.

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

I installed long tubes, DT catless mid pipes and a Gibson cat back exhaust.

I didn't want to run around cat-less so instead of running cats in the factory location, I have one free-flow cat right after the flared merger, post mid-pipe.

I welded a cat into the first section of the cat back exhaust. I drilled a hole post cat and welded in another o2 port. Sensors are getting extended and installed.

 

[erkelbot]

I sent a note to DT for answers on fitment and modifications needed. I'll update once I hear back.

 

[erkelbot]

I was told no welding would be required. From DT:

1. [parts needed] THY-563Y-LS-C. O2 Harness Extensions included. O2 “Defeater” (Simulator) available through Underdog Racing Development (URD).
2. 5-6 week lead time. Due to the whole COVID-19 supplier is having a hard time getting parts for O2 harness extensions, it can even be longer.

Still not sure what I'll do, but good to know the parts bolt right together (after I break every bolt getting the parts off).

 

[JLee]

I installed long tubes, DT catless mid pipes and a Gibson cat back exhaust.

I didn't want to run around cat-less so instead of running cats in the factory location, I have one free-flow cat right after the flared merger, post mid-pipe.

I welded a cat into the first section of the cat back exhaust. I drilled a hole post cat and welded in another o2 port. Sensors are getting extended and installed.

How's this working out? I also have a manifold tick and would prefer long tubes, but only if I can get it working nicely with a cat. I have no desire to run around catless.

 

[Squirrelmaster]

I installed long tubes, DT catless mid pipes and a Gibson cat back exhaust.

I didn't want to run around cat-less so instead of running cats in the factory location, I have one free-flow cat right after the flared merger, post mid-pipe.

I welded a cat into the first section of the cat back exhaust. I drilled a hole post cat and welded in another o2 port. Sensors are getting extended and installed.

How is the sound on this setup? Is there much drone? I'm reluctant to replace the factory exhaust because I still haul small kids around and want to keep it quiet for when they fall asleep. I'm also not willing to run cat-free, so noise concerns aside, your setup seems promising.

 

[erkelbot]

How is the sound on this setup? Is there much drone? I'm reluctant to replace the factory exhaust because I still haul small kids around and want to keep it quiet for when they fall asleep. I'm also not willing to run cat-free, so noise concerns aside, your setup seems promising.

I'm in the same boat. Trying to get some sound while also trying to keep the truck as family-friendly. I'll probably go catless though, since MN isn't a testing state for emissions. It'll probably add a bit more noise, but such is life.

 

[intoodeep1113]

Not sure if it helps with all your questions, but it seems like quite a few have put similar kits on the V8 4runners. There are instal l stories, audio clips and other information as well. This was just one of the threads I found:

Toyota-4Runner.org

The Largest 4Runner Community in the World

www.toyota-4runner.org

 

[AdvBill]

I have, what I think are bad exhaust manifolds. I get ticking under load (moreso on the passenger side) between 2K-3.5K, and suspect the manifolds are either cracked or the gaskets need to be replaced. To that end, I'm looking at options... As far as I know, I could do the following:

• Pull things apart and fix the problem. That would mean welding what's there, or just replacing gaskets. Guess thing this somewhat costly at a shop for just labor, but no crazy parts costs.
• Pull things apart and replace -- OEM or DT. Much more costly, but a "permanent" fix. DT is more cost effective, but I've read there are moderate fitment issues (see questions below).
• Cover up the ticking and add a CB exhaust that growls a bit more. No, this is not fixing the problem, but it does sort of fix the problem as far as my ear is concerned. Cheaper, pretty much bolt on. Has anyone done this?

For those who went the route of DT headers, these questions are for you. I tried doing a few searches, but I'm not able to easily get to the truth.

• How bad will this install be? I've read 8 hours, and that the driver's side will be bad, but should I also be worried about broken bolts/studs? The truck came from GA, but was shared sporadically in MN until I got it last fall. For a 2007, it's in better than average shape for surface rust on the undercarriage. I have 149K on the clock. I'll be bringing it into a shop instead of attempting myself, but want to know how much downside there might be when the bill comes due.
• Should I get the long or the short headers? I have the Hewitt kit installed to bypass the AI, and I've read varying accounts for how to treat it/if it works to simply use the blocker plates. Any sage advice would be helpful here. I'm looking for an easier install, but also a proper one.
• Will the DT headers bolt into the OEM exhaust parts? I don't want to replace the CB yet (still a lot of life in the OEM stuff), but want things to fit together right. What parts do I need from DT to make this work right? I also want to future-proof it so I can easily install a CB when the time comes, which it will.

Thanks everyone. Sorry for the litany of questions.

Hi Guys, New to this Forum.
I did a DT upgrade to shorty headers and an AfE Power exhaust in 2016. I would have preferred the long tube but only shortie was available then. My setup was mostly a bolt-on solution except needed a custom connector between the headers and catback. I got all the parts together and took it to a custom shop. I did not track the total hrs but the labor was $1200 and he said should have added a little (total cost ~$3400). If you wheel the GX, consider the routing / spacing of the new pipe hanging down below the frame, if needed. Space in ENG bay is VERY limited on the sides so possible that the engine has to be unbolted in order raise / move back and forth in order to get in there. There is a V8 drone at 2000RPM, which as you know, is right at the 70mph cruise zone, and acceleration zone. Drone reduced above and below that RPM (upper reduced ~2400, 75-80mph).. Really nice tone at 3000, which is also where the engine comes alive a bit more from the better flow. I too HAD to get the URD plugs for the ENG Light as the flow is altered. Since I got the shorties, We also kept one set of cats. There are essentially two solutions for the drone, an inline resonator or a helmholtz resonator fabricated and attached - Killing the Drone. The helmholtz is my choice but have not had it put on yet. There are also DT power charts that show the anticipated increases in HP and TQ, as well as the respective Catback exhaust of your choice. May have to look for the Tundra or 4Runner 4.7L. I think I put some charts and short vid of sound in a Google drive site and will look for that.

 

[isthatalexus]

TL;DR: fix the one you've got.

I had my exhaust decision/indecision moment about 18 months ago.

I first heard the tick-tick on the way to Death Valley. After some 20 miles on brain-rattling, kidney-wandering washboard (in one stretch), we came to rest and killed the motors. (two bikes, two trucks) After the requisite hydration and personal de-rattling, I fired up the 2006 GX to find the vehicle now sounding like something from the NASCAR circuit. Exhaust manifold crack. The balance of the itinerary had me in the South Bay for work stuff, where I found myself doing the audio version of what coal-rollers do to little convertible latte carriers. I quickly found a muffler shop, where a very kind fellow performed some quick welding magic. The truck came off the rack, no more NASCAR sound (or check engine light), and he sent me on my way. He refused payment, but after getting home (AZ), I did send him a giant gift basket of bacon-related things.

My Toyota Sherpa in Phoenix is on the conservative side, with a bias towards 'Toyota knew what they were doing when they did what they did.' He removed the affected exhaust manifold, performed all kinds of more welding, re-fitted the thing, and I've been tick-free ever since. I don't recall the exact cost, but it was around $500. Before this fix, I also spent weeks agonizing and budgeting over how to replace/repair/upgrade/radicalize my exhaust system. Our GX motors have that just-a-little-bit higher compression ratio (which is why the high-octane fuel), so it should be safe to assume that Toyota designed the exhaust system to match.

Buried lede: it is safe to assume that I caused the original insult to the exhaust manifold during one (or more) not-quite-enough departure angle incidents on the trail. I know this because the exhaust tip had an unmistakable egg-like opening, and it was sufficiently 'adjusted' upwards to melt the OEM bumper plastic; photo below. I have since installed the Metal-Tech Pegasus bumper (love it) and cut the tailpipe behind the rear axle, removing the resonator can in the process, and getting the exhaust out of the danger zone. Yes, there is a slight difference in the sound, but not the kind of braaap-braaap that adds 40-90 aesthetic horsepower. My intent was not to add noise pollution.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

When I got my V8 4Runner off my uncle it was in quite disrepair. He had let the exhaust tick go so long that the CAT on the passenger side manifold was hanging off.

I pulled the manifold and welded the exhaust back together then bolted it back up with new gaskets and it's been fine for over a year. I pass CA smog legally and see no reason for new cats and expensive parts until needed.

Easy job to do just slow and tedious. Took it off in 3 hours one evening then buttoned it back up in 4 hours the next day after welding. It can all be done in one full day push if you're hard up for time.

 

[Unic4Rn]

Have the headers, Y-pipe, and topped it all off with a tune from YotaWerx. Totally different truck to drive - especially on the interstate. The new shift points are incredible after the tune. Cruise control is wonderful with no annoying downshifts going uphill. Closest she'll ever feel to the Cayenne S that I traded in on her.

Here is what she sounds like:

 

[Rednexus]

87 or 91 octane on the YotaWerx, and how much of a change relative to the stock tune with headers? Mine runs great as is with headers, exhaust, and a stock tune but who wouldn't want a bit more

 

[Unic4Rn]

Currently running the 87 octane Active Duty - I drove the truck for about a month with headers, Y-pipe, and exhaust before adding the YW tune. It was the missing piece of the puzzle that brought everything together. Then I was looking at CAI's, did some research, and went out with a box cutter and deleted the hydrocarbon filter to take advantage of the CAI design the 'Yota engineers designed and then popped in a new K&N filter and pocketed the other $250.

I'd liken the tune to Laney Boggs in She's All That. Laney is supposed to be an ugly duckling who's "scary and inaccessible," as Zack describes her in the beginning of the movie. But Laney's played by actress Rachael Leigh Cook, who is clearly beautiful. Dressing her in overalls and big glasses didn't change that (in this case the overalls and big glasses are the stock intake & filter, stock manifolds).

The YW tune was the equivalent to Rachel Leigh Cook removing her glasses and letting her hair down, suddenly becoming sexy and desirable.

I'm not sure what stock tune you are referring to, so I cannot speak to the performance gains of a YW over the tune you currently have. Also, I have not flashed the ECU with the 91 Octane YW tune, yet, so I don't even know what more she's hiding in there, lol. If Big Oil decides to stop bending us over with no lube, I'll flash it and find out!

 

[Rednexus]

iStock tune = no tune at all. Interesting analogy for sure and perhaps the furst usage in describing a tune . Thanks for the feedback, and I'll likely add this to my mod list.

 

[Unic4Rn]

Fun Factor sliding scale (1-100)

Stock tune with your upgrades = 60
YW 87 Octane Active Duty = 90
YW 91 Octane Active Duty = 100
I'm only dropping the 87 AD tune down to 90 so there is room to improve performance on the 91 AD tune. She's an absolute blast to drive on the 87 AD tune.

 

[Unic4Rn]

Wanted to follow up with a more technical answer - this is from YW:

Q: What benefits can be seen from your tunes, specifically on the 2UZ?
YW: Throttle response, smoother function, shift logic adjustments, additional power particularly down low, fuel and timing adjustment. All of these come together to improve drivability.