That will buff right out!

[rusty_tlc]

The theme for the trip through Central Nevada with the 100 was "That will buff right out!"

Well the time has come to commence buffing. I need to start from ground zero on buffing, no experience, no equipment, nothing.

Suggestions tips and pointers anybody?

 

[brownbear]

Depends how bad the scratches are. You may want to wetsand the entire area and have it re- clear coated.

You wetsand the original clear coat off till your on the base coat.

Or just use a good polish on a power buffer and work it out. Then wax it.

 

[rusty_tlc]

In this case the "entire area" is fairly large. There are scratches on the roof.

 

[brownbear]

can you post a picture?

For the roof...... I may be temped to paint it out white. But I know this is a 100 not a 60

Lets see the damage and we can go from there how to fix it.

 

[rusty_tlc]

The camera is at home but the card is at work

I was really looking for general advice on equipment and products for buffung out light brush scratches. I suspect this is going to be an ongoing issue.

I don't think is going to go for the white top. I'd consider it if the rig were a darker color, but it's silver. No real cooling benifit to a lighter color top.

 

[bigbrowndog]

http://www.properautocare.com/aboutmenzerna.html
Best products for detailing used with menzerna pads, changing to cheap pads does effect the performance and the menzerna pads last way longer and don't go to crap when washed. The best all round polisher is the Makita 9227C. It has very good control and balance.The cheaper polishers have less torque and the speed varies with the load which effects the finish. Quality air polishers need a shop compressor to run them and cheaper air polishers require more air and are less controlled. Also with the silver is a hard color to match and hard to blend in correctly when painting but looks great. cheers.

 

[rusty_tlc]

The 9227c is what I see called a polisher/sander. Would it also be good to have some kind of random orbit buffer?

I'm kind of going back to my wood working experience here. I always used a randon orbit palm sander with a polishing pad for the final application of wax to a piece.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

In this use, random orbit would be referred to as "DA" for dual action.
To answer you question, the polisher will do just what you want, but it's not fool proof. A polisher/buffer with some cajones could easily burn through the paint if you don't keep the pad in constant motion, and don't stay in one small area a very long time (letting the paint keep heating up more and more until...ouch!)
Just treat the polisher w/ a lot of respect, and maybe find a practice panel for starters. (Try a pesky neighbor's purty Mercedes while they're out)

 

[Rainy Day FZJ]

Go to http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ they have all the great tips and awesome tips! I purchased thier polisher and kit to do my black dodge and was absolutely amazed. It has small scratches and swirls to beat the band. Never been so impressed. It removed the scratches before the wax was put on. You are lucky if you have a white vehicle, they hide the most scratches before you see them. Good luck.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Go to http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ they have all the great tips and awesome tips! I purchased thier polisher and kit to do my black dodge and was absolutely amazed. It has small scratches and swirls to beat the band. Never been so impressed. It removed the scratches before the wax was put on. You are lucky if you have a white vehicle, they hide the most scratches before you see them. Good luck.

Thanks! That is a great site.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I went cheap as a first re-course and it worked out great!

In the right light you canstill see a few scrathes but generaly you would never know we took the 100 through the brush tunnels we did.


I used a Coleman 10" buffer I found on sale at Kragen for $19.99 and a three part system from McQuires which ran $6.49 per product. So the total investment was around $40, and I still have enough product to do the 100 a couple of times.