T-Belt light is up (DIESEL engine) (1 Viewer)

[stratus]

I have reached 150k km yesterday and the T-belt light came up (scary!!!)

There are several DYIs with pictures and videos for petrol engines in the FAQ, but none for DIESEL.

Has it been documented on this forum? Do I need to rush to the service or it is OK to calmly prepare the whole list of preventive maintenance items which is a good practice to change while doing the T-Belt - I mean parts which will become easily accessible while doing the above mentioned job, but will be a pain to replace if they fail 10k km later on.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Maybe this would help:

 

[uHu]

I have reached 150k km yesterday and the T-belt light came up (scary!!!)

There are several DYIs with pictures and videos for petrol engines in the FAQ, but none for DIESEL.

Has it been documented on this forum? Do I need to rush to the service or it is OK to calmly prepare the whole list of preventive maintenance items which is a good practice to change while doing the T-Belt - I mean parts which will become easily accessible while doing the above mentioned job, but will be a pain to replace if they fail 10k km later on.

The 1HD-FTE is very easy to change the belt on. Btw, it's not only 150k km you have to look at, also the age. 5 years iirc, so yours was probably due at least 9 years ago.
It is important to always change the tensioner complete with the wheel as well. The tensioner is likely to fail before the belt.
Make sure you use only OEM parts for belt and tensioner.

The water pump might keep twice as long as the belt interval, but more likely it will start weeping/leaking 50-100k before the next belt change, so for saving on the work...

 

[stratus]

The 1HD-FTE is very easy to change the belt on. Btw, it's not only 150k km you have to look at, also the age. 5 years iirc, so yours was probably due at least 9 years ago.
It is important to always change the tensioner complete with the wheel as well. The tensioner is likely to fail before the belt.
Make sure you use only OEM parts for belt and tensioner.

The water pump might keep twice as long as the belt interval, but more likely it will start weeping/leaking 50-100k before the next belt change, so for saving on the work...

Thank you all for the information provided. You mentioned the tensioner - could it make a wine when acceleration over 1500 rpms?

Regarding it being an easy job - I never did this before an any car. If I find a video guide maybe I can attempt it myself. Do you know of a good tutorial on this? I noticed that manufacturer's guides sometime are too "superficial" in a way that a novice like me need a video to fill those gaps.

 

[IndroCruise]

Thank you all for the information provided. You mentioned the tensioner - could it make a wine when acceleration over 1500 rpms?

Regarding it being an easy job - I never did this before an any car. If I find a video guide maybe I can attempt it myself. Do you know of a good tutorial on this? I noticed that manufacturer's guides sometime are too "superficial" in a way that a novice like me need a video to fill those gaps.

Late edit: Includes YouTube references

As @uHu mentioned, this is a job you can do yourself. To gain confidence, Google "timing belt 1HD-FTE" or search that term directly on YouTube and you will find a few good pointers. Here are a couple of examples -- the first also includes re-setting the counter, already mentioned by @OEMGUY0720 above at Post #3. The standard setting is 150,000 kilometres or 100,000 miles but you can choose your own setting -- also see attached service schedule but consider time as well as kilometres, some would say 5 years is too cautious, 10 years would be maximum for many people, including me -- but I am inclined to be conservative:


and



If you do the same on the IH8MUD search function, experience of other Members also will come up, specifically for 1HD-FTE. The layout is a lot different on 2UZ-FE (V8 gasoline/petrol). The idea is much the same but a lot more work is involved. The 1HZ, 1HD-T and 1HD-FT diesels are similar to 1HD-FTE.

Definitely use a good quality timing belt replacement kit including tensioner complete with idler pulley (wheel), at least OEM quality. There are alternatives but the point is to go for quality not price. This is a vital engine component and you do not want second-rate quality to let you down. A small saving in parts is not worth the risk of huge and very expensive damage to one of the best long-life engines made by Toyota. If you have only done 150,000 kilometres, that is only around one-third of the life of this engine if it is well maintained -- the aim should be at least 450,000 kilometres and some would say much longer. The bearing in the idler pulley near the tensioner may be the cause of a whining noise but there may be other causes.

Timing belts (and other belts) deteriorate with time and operating environment (heat, eventual cracking etc), so consider changing on a time basis, not just kilometres. Production of 1HD-FTE ceased around 2007, so your engine probably is 15+ years old -- DEFINITELY overdue for a timing belt change.

If unsure of the age of the drive belts for alternator, air con, water pump, heater pump (if fitted), consider replacing them as well for reliability and peace of mind.

Depending on the age and history of your vehicle, also consider replacing the water pump while it is exposed. This is not difficult either -- a bit more searching will provide insights and videos on how to do this. A failed water pump or seals resulting in unlucky leakage over the timing belt probably will necessitate replacement of the timing belt -- obviously not wanted, especially after the timing belt has been replaced.

If parts are difficult to find at your location, consider partsouq.com or similar reputable on-line suppliers -- explore by entering your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) at their websites.

Further Late Edits added: Corrections, pictures, attached description of 1HD-FTE engine -- go to page 10 of the PDF (shows as page 117 on the document) for description and diagram of the "Timing Gear Train" including Timing Belt, Pulleys, Idler Pulley and Tensioner.

Picture by @Moridinbg of timing belt and frozen tensioner prior to 1HD-FTE engine overhaul

The information at this link also may be helpful:
Timing belt failure symptoms, causes and corrective actions | Gates Europe - https://www.gatestechzone.com/en/problem-diagnosis/synchronous-drive-system

Gates is a highly reputable manufacturer of timing belts. Here is a summary quote from their website:

"If you don’t know when the timing belt was installed or if the mileage of the belt is unknown, it is always best to replace it. A toothed belt that has run under optimum conditions is hardly subject to increased wear. Nevertheless, it may be at the end of its service life and/or be damaged in ways that cannot be seen from the outside. An important factor determining a belt’s service life is bending fatigue of the glass-fiber tensile members – or, in other words, the number of times a toothed belt has run over the drive components. This fatigue leads to damage that is not visible from the outside, but that can cause the tensile members to break. So, better be safe than sorry!"

 

[nissanh]

The T-belt sign comes on every 100K Km's. OEM belt can officially go easy 10 years, if and only if it is OEM.

If you haven't done a timing belt job, don't be worried, I did my V8 Timing belt for the first time and all is good. OEM timing belt comes with all the marks to match sprockets on cam, crank, diesel pump etc., I took my own time and did not rush. Once you are done, I'd turn the crank by hand (Keep the battery off the engine bay) and see for any resistance (valve hitting the piston). Diesel will be hard to spin.

Good Luck!

 

[IndroCruise]

Late edits added to Post #5 ....

 

[stratus]

Late edits added to Post #5 ....

WOW!!!

Thank you SO MUCH!

I think this is the most complete and comprehensive answer I got to my question on a automotive forum, like ever!

Thank once again, I am off to study and order parts.

To the moderators: As mentioned before, this engine (diesel) timing belt DYI is not in the list of DYI thread. Maybe it is helpful to other DYI-ers to be (like myself) to add this reply to the list as well?

 

[stratus]

Definitely use a good quality timing belt replacement kit including tensioner complete with idler pulley (wheel), at least OEM quality. There are alternatives but the point is to go for quality not price. This is a vital engine component and you do not want second-rate quality to let you down. A small saving in parts is not worth the risk of huge and very expensive damage to one of the best long-life engines made by Toyota. If you have only done 150,000 kilometres, that is only around one-third of the life of this engine if it is well maintained -- the aim should be at least 450,000 kilometres and some would say much longer. The bearing in the idler pulley near the tensioner may be the cause of a whining noise but there may be other causes.

If unsure of the age of the drive belts for alternator, air con, water pump, heater pump (if fitted), consider replacing them as well for reliability and peace of mind.

Depending on the age and history of your vehicle, also consider replacing the water pump while it is exposed. This is not difficult either -- a bit more searching will provide insights and videos on how to do this. A failed water pump or seals resulting in unlucky leakage over the timing belt probably will necessitate replacement of the timing belt -- obviously not wanted, especially after the timing belt has been replaced.

I must confess, I have been lazy, but slowly am approaching to this job.

Are these 3 parts the complete (sufficient) kit?

Belt
tensioner
idler pulley?

I will look into water pump too - I assume genuine toyota one is a must?

 

[stratus]

I must confess, I have been lazy, but slowly am approaching to this job.

Are these 3 parts the complete (sufficient) kit?

Belt
tensioner
idler pulley?

I will look into water pump too - I assume genuine toyota one is a must?

View attachment 2708560

Re water pump - Toyota one is $100, AISSIN is $55 - it begs the question, is Toyota the only option or AISSIN will do just fine?

 

[stratus]

Deleted

 

[stratus]

@IndroCruise @nissanh et all - once again many thanks!

I took it apart today. Everything looks so clean inside! I kind of feel bad that I went in there with my monkey hands - it will never be so nice anymore.

Can someone please have a look at the pics - how does the old belt look? Shall I change it?
If So, I will need to turn the engine by hand, right? Car in neutral and turn the Idle gear to turn the engine - at the beginning of the job to align for the marks and then after I finish the job 2 full rotations, right? Is it best to remove the splash cover and turn the engine from under the car or is it accessible from the bonnet side, from above?

 

[stratus]

Also another concern: the cover has some sort of grey foam gasket around the egde. In 2 places in the middle section it remained on the engine - can be seen in the picture. Shall I leave it like this or remove it completely and try to think of a replacement (like what?)?

 

[IndroCruise]

Also another concern: the cover has some sort of grey foam gasket around the egde. In 2 places in the middle section it remained on the engine - can be seen in the picture. Shall I leave it like this or remove it completely and try to think of a replacement (like what?)?

View attachment 2736297

My previous strong recommendation is unchanged -- replace this very old and overdue timing belt, belt tensioner and roller as soon as possible.

The belt may look OK superficially on the surface but without X-ray vision it is impossible to know what it looks like beneath the surface.

Leaving the ancient belt in place carries the risk of further deterioration (when will you next look at it?) and more importantly carries the huge risk of very expensive engine damage with lots of cost and lots of inconvenience – and taking this risk achieves what exactly?

The 1HD-FTE is an 'intererence engine' meaning that if valve timing is lost (such as when a timing belt fails or slips due to failed tensioner, or is cooked riding over a jammed roller) the pistons will crash into open valves and the damage would be immense -- broken valves, bent crankshaft, damaged pistons, scoring of cylinder walls, possible bent connecting rods .....

Suggest use the internet to check on prices for a replacement 1HD-FTE turbodiesel engine – very expensive even in used condition -- if a good one can be found and assuming local expertise is available install it.

Installing a replacement timing belt kit is very cheap insurance against these risks.

As you will have seen in the videos back at my Post #5 in this thread, the task requires considerable care but it is a reasonable do-it-yourself task. And it is very different and much, much easier than a timing belt replacement on 2UZ-FE gasoline V8 engine.

If it were my vehicle, I would enlarge the project and replace the ancient water pump as well, as shown in the second video. This is also cheap insurance.

In the last pic in Post #5, the pulley which is attached to the crankshaft can be seen. The correct size socket, a short extension piece to reach into the pulley, and a good long handle for leverage will be enough to turn the engine, even with the very high compression in the 1HD-FTE turbodiesel.

If only replacing the timing belt kit, it will be easier to turn the engine from the below.

If also replacing the water-pump, then the fan and other things must be removed. Then the engine then can be turned by reaching from the top or the bottom.

For the IHD-FTE turbodiesel engine, the Factory Service Manual mentions FIPG (means Formed In Place Gasket) packing material as a seal for the timing belt cover cover rather than an actual pre-formed gasket and refers to Toyota Part No. 8826-00080 “or equivalent”. Suggest make inquiries at a Toyota dealer or an automotive store. Maybe a tube of suitable sealant which can withstand high temperatures near an engine is all that is required to keep out moisture and dirt. There is no pressure to be resisted. This eBay site gives the idea: Toyota FIPG Black Silicon Sealant - Engine for sale online | eBay - https://www.ebay.com.au/p/655286175 but you will need something more local to you. Suggest take the pictures with you to obtain advice.

 

[stratus]

My previous strong recommendation is unchanged -- replace this very old and overdue timing belt, belt tensioner and roller as soon as possible.

The belt may look OK superficially on the surface but without X-ray vision it is impossible to know what it looks like beneath the surface.

Leaving the ancient belt in place carries the risk of further deterioration (when will you next look at it?) and more importantly carries the huge risk of very expensive engine damage with lots of cost and lots of inconvenience – and taking this risk achieves what exactly?

The 1HD-FTE is an 'intererence engine' meaning that if valve timing is lost (such as when a timing belt fails or slips due to failed tensioner, or is cooked riding over a jammed roller) the pistons will crash into open valves and the damage would be immense -- broken valves, bent crankshaft, damaged pistons, scoring of cylinder walls, possible bent connecting rods .....

Suggest use the internet to check on prices for a replacement 1HD-FTE turbodiesel engine – very expensive even in used condition -- if a good one can be found and assuming local expertise is available install it.

Installing a replacement timing belt kit is very cheap insurance against these risks.

As you will have seen in the videos back at my Post #5 in this thread, the task requires considerable care but it is a reasonable do-it-yourself task. And it is very different and much, much easier than a timing belt replacement on 2UZ-FE gasoline V8 engine.

If it were my vehicle, I would enlarge the project and replace the ancient water pump as well, as shown in the second video. This is also cheap insurance.

In the last pic in Post #5, the pulley which is attached to the crankshaft can be seen. The correct size socket, a short extension piece to reach into the pulley, and a good long handle for leverage will be enough to turn the engine, even with the very high compression in the 1HD-FTE turbodiesel.

If only replacing the timing belt kit, it will be easier to turn the engine from the below.

If also replacing the water-pump, then the fan and other things must be removed. Then the engine then can be turned by reaching from the top or the bottom.

For the IHD-FTE turbodiesel engine, the Factory Service Manual mentions FIPG (means Formed In Place Gasket) packing material as a seal for the timing belt cover cover rather than an actual pre-formed gasket and refers to Toyota Part No. 8826-00080 “or equivalent”. Suggest make inquiries at a Toyota dealer or an automotive store. Maybe a tube of suitable sealant which can withstand high temperatures near an engine is all that is required to keep out moisture and dirt. There is no pressure to be resisted. This eBay site gives the idea: Toyota FIPG Black Silicon Sealant - Engine for sale online | eBay - https://www.ebay.com.au/p/655286175 but you will need something more local to you. Suggest take the pictures with you to obtain advice.

Thank you, I am convinced - I am changing the belt and tensioner etc...

Regarding the water pump, I wanted to order it from partsouq along the belt kit, but wanted to get an opinion here first : Toyota branded pump goes for about $100, Aisin pump for about $55. The reason I am asking, in the videos posted above, the pump is "Toyota - Aisin" , so it begs the question. Is collective wisdom here in favour of Toyota or Aisin is as popular among members here?

 

[stratus]

My previous strong recommendation is unchanged -- replace this very old and overdue timing belt, belt tensioner and roller as soon as possible.

The belt may look OK superficially on the surface but without X-ray vision it is impossible to know what it looks like beneath the surface.

Leaving the ancient belt in place carries the risk of further deterioration (when will you next look at it?) and more importantly carries the huge risk of very expensive engine damage with lots of cost and lots of inconvenience – and taking this risk achieves what exactly?

The 1HD-FTE is an 'intererence engine' meaning that if valve timing is lost (such as when a timing belt fails or slips due to failed tensioner, or is cooked riding over a jammed roller) the pistons will crash into open valves and the damage would be immense -- broken valves, bent crankshaft, damaged pistons, scoring of cylinder walls, possible bent connecting rods .....

Suggest use the internet to check on prices for a replacement 1HD-FTE turbodiesel engine – very expensive even in used condition -- if a good one can be found and assuming local expertise is available install it.

Installing a replacement timing belt kit is very cheap insurance against these risks.

As you will have seen in the videos back at my Post #5 in this thread, the task requires considerable care but it is a reasonable do-it-yourself task. And it is very different and much, much easier than a timing belt replacement on 2UZ-FE gasoline V8 engine.

If it were my vehicle, I would enlarge the project and replace the ancient water pump as well, as shown in the second video. This is also cheap insurance.

In the last pic in Post #5, the pulley which is attached to the crankshaft can be seen. The correct size socket, a short extension piece to reach into the pulley, and a good long handle for leverage will be enough to turn the engine, even with the very high compression in the 1HD-FTE turbodiesel.

If only replacing the timing belt kit, it will be easier to turn the engine from the below.

If also replacing the water-pump, then the fan and other things must be removed. Then the engine then can be turned by reaching from the top or the bottom.

For the IHD-FTE turbodiesel engine, the Factory Service Manual mentions FIPG (means Formed In Place Gasket) packing material as a seal for the timing belt cover cover rather than an actual pre-formed gasket and refers to Toyota Part No. 8826-00080 “or equivalent”. Suggest make inquiries at a Toyota dealer or an automotive store. Maybe a tube of suitable sealant which can withstand high temperatures near an engine is all that is required to keep out moisture and dirt. There is no pressure to be resisted. This eBay site gives the idea: Toyota FIPG Black Silicon Sealant - Engine for sale online | eBay - https://www.ebay.com.au/p/655286175 but you will need something more local to you. Suggest take the pictures with you to obtain advice.

Thank you, I am convinced - I am changing the belt and tensioner etc...

Regarding the water pump, I wanted to order it from partsouq along the belt kit, but wanted to get an opinion here first : Toyota branded pump goes for about $100, Aisin pump for about $55. The reason I am asking, in the videos posted above, the pump is "Toyota - Aisin" , so it begs the question. Is collective wisdom here in favour of Toyota or Aisin is as popular among members here? Or is it the same part with the Toyota branding on it?!

 

[stratus]

I just checked the marks on the timing pulleys - accidentally they seem already set in correct positions, right?
Does this seem aligned?
By the way, there are 2 marks on the Camshaft timing puller no.1 - one at which I am now, and there is another mark to the left with letters "TDC" - what is it?

If I somehow manage to change the belt without moving any of the Camshaft timing pulleys, do I still need to turn the engine by hand?

 

[stratus]

UPDATE: the top mark is not "perfect" - I took another picture exposing the tooth with the mark at the inside part, near the mark on the engine.

Is this good enough or I need to bring it to perfect centre of the mark. Now it is 1 mm to the right in my opinion, but the bottom mark seems perfect now.

I must say, that the car is parked on a incline, so when I put it into neutral, it rolled maybe 5 cm before the handbrake caught it. could this be the cause on having perfect alignment at bottom, but not so perfect on top mark?

 

[stratus]

UPDATE: the top mark is not "perfect" - I took another picture exposing the tooth with the mark at the inside part, near the mark on the engine.

Is this good enough or I need to bring it to perfect centre of the mark. Now it is 1 mm to the right in my opinion, but the bottom mark seems perfect now.

I must say, that the car is parked on a incline, so when I put it into neutral, it rolled maybe 5 cm before the handbrake caught it. could this be the cause on having perfect alignment at bottom, but not so perfect on top mark?

View attachment 2737214

I did the job today! when one knows what to do, it is an easy job. Looking back, the hardest thing was keeping the bolts from falling, especially the bottom ones. There is little access for the fingers when the fan is in place.

To anyone who is thinking of doing it - the cover has 6 bolts in total - some are hard to see.

HOWEVER, having put everything back together, I still did not turn the engine. I think I will open the cover again and turn it by hand.
Also, the pulley in the picture was not perfectly aligned. I want to align it perfectly. Do I just take the belt of it and turn the nut in picture counter-clockwise a bit until is is perfectly aligned and put the belt back on?will the bottom pulley stay unchanged or also turn even if the belt is off?

 

[stratus]

Regardless of lack of any replies here, I will continue - maybe it will help a novice like me one day.

There are 8 12 mm bolts to be removed in order to take the metal skid plate out.

To turn the engine, one needs a 32mm socket.
I managed to turn it with a 50 cm long ratchet.

At times it was very hard to turn, then it was super easy, then hard again, then easy...should I be worried about the hard turning at times?