Suspension Fork for Trek 830 MTB

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I just picked up a Trek 830 Antelope 1994 from a garage sale and I want to add an inexpensive suspension fork to it since it has none.

What/Where do I measure to make sure I get the correct size fork?

I know I need to make sure its a v-brake/cantilever design, and that I need to fit a 26" wheel. I also know I need a threaded steerer, but that's where my knowledge ends.

I was thinking something along these lines.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SR-Suntour-M750...ryZ36135QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Or perhaps a cheaper Manitou or Marzocchi setup.

Thanks!
 
I just picked up a Trek 830 Antelope 1994 from a garage sale and I want to add an inexpensive suspension fork to it since it has none.

What/Where do I measure to make sure I get the correct size fork?

I know I need to make sure its a v-brake/cantilever design, and that I need to fit a 26" wheel. I also know I need a threaded steerer, but that's where my knowledge ends.

I was thinking something along these lines.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SR-Suntour-M750...ryZ36135QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Or perhaps a cheaper Manitou or Marzocchi setup.

Thanks!

Trek makes a good bike but I think yours has a solid(non-suspension fork) correct?

If it does then you will not be able to add a suspension fork. The geometry of the bike will not allow it. Of course you could if you dont mind leaning way back like a chopper. I learned this the hard way when I got a great deal on a Raleigh M-80 which also had a solid steel fork.

What is inexpensive? You can spend over a grand easy on a suspension fork. Even the cheap ones are a couple hundred bucks.

If it does have a suspension fork then you need head tube length, headset measurments and other stuff I could be leaving out. Certainly another Mudder here has info too.

Good luck

J
 
Trek makes a good bike but I think yours has a solid(non-suspension fork) correct?

If it does then you will not be able to add a suspension fork. The geometry of the bike will not allow it. Of course you could if you dont mind leaning way back like a chopper. I learned this the hard way when I got a great deal on a Raleigh M-80 which also had a solid steel fork.

If it does have a suspension fork then you need head tube length, headset measurments and other stuff I could be leaving out. Certainly another Mudder here has info too.

Good luck

J
Crap, I didn't think of that... oh well. I guess I'll pass on that.

Although I am tempted to try it.

I can deal with a solid fork for the time being. If I get back into riding, I'll look at getting a new Fuji (partial to Fuji) or Trek.

Thanks!
 
Crap, I didn't think of that... oh well. I guess I'll pass on that.

Although I am tempted to try it.

I can deal with a solid fork for the time being. If I get back into riding, I'll look at getting a new Fuji (partial to Fuji) or Trek.

Thanks!

What kind of riding are you planning to do? If you are trail riding I'm willing to bet the trek will do fine. I rode the hell out of that M-80(1998) with a solid fork. There are advantages to the solid hard tails.

Later I did trade up to a Raleigh M-50DX 2005 with suspension fork and dual disk brakes. For the money it was a great buy. Less than $600.00 for the bike. I am no downhill freak but occasionally I like to take it on a few "sweet jumps".

J
 
Well, I drew a line down the headset and the fork and it looks like the wheel would be moved in about 1" or so. Would that really affect the geometry that badly?

I know they offered this bike with a suspension fork, but I'm sure its not the same as what I would want to do.
 
What kind of riding are you planning to do? If you are trail riding I'm willing to bet the trek will do fine. I rode the hell out of that M-80(1998) with a solid fork. There are advantages to the solid hard tails.

Later I did trade up to a Raleigh M-50DX 2005 with suspension fork and dual disk brakes. For the money it was a great buy. Less than $600.00 for the bike. I am no downhill freak but occasionally I like to take it on a few "sweet jumps".

J
Mostly trail riding.

Every MTB I've had has been without suspension so it won't be too bad I guess.

Maybe I can give this bike to my wife and get myself a used MTB with suspension. :D
 
830's are nice bikes. I have one I bought used a number of years ago.

At one time there was a suspension fork available, according to a local bike shop, that would fit. But the company making it no longer does so.

I'm of the opinion that if you're going to run a suspension fork, then get a bike with a complete front and rear suspension, or not at all. I don't particularly care to have a suspension fork in front and a solid frame in back.
 
it probably has a 1" steerer tube, if so the only suspension forks available (commonly) are used "vintage" ones.

1994 would be about the time when there were 3 available steerer tube sizes, 1", 1 1/8" and 1 1/4". fast forward to 2007 you'll see that 1, and 1 1/4 steerers are all but gone and 1 1/8 is the standard.

if you find a fork that fits, it'll be in the 2" travel range, really not much by current standards. i have an old cannondale, 1990 or 1991 i think. originally it was a full rigid bike, years ago i but a suspension fork on it. handling differnences are negligible with such small travel forks. if you tried putting a modern downhill fork on your antique, there would definitely be severe impacts to handling due to the bizarre geometry effects.
 
As Bald Redhead said, it will have a 1" steerer tube. Marzocchi makes an 80mm fork with a 1" steerer tube. The 80mm fork wouldn't chopper the bike out to far. The problem is it is going to run you $250+, then you will need to get a threadless headset ($30 for an inexpensive on), new stem ($20), new bars ($30), plus labor (unless you have the tools). So when said and done, you will be looking at $350-400 out the door, for a bike that is dated. You are much better buying a $500 hardtail and getting the benefit of 12 years of bike improvements.


If you want to ride your 830 as a MTB, the best bang for the buck you will get will be a set of high volume tires. For a moderate price all conditions tire, pick up a pair of WTB MutanoRaptor 2.4s for $50 from pricepoint or jensonusa. They are reasonably light, roll well, and have a large casing. Run them at 35psi or so and enjoy your free pnumatic suspension that will take a lot of vibration and trail chatter away.
 
Well, it has a 1 1/8" threaded steerer tube. Has a Tioga Avenger Oversized headset.

I think I'm gonna buy the cheap SR Suntour 50mm suspension fork from eBay.

Some on MTBR have had success with suspension forks, some up to 80mm, on their vintage rigids.

I'll let you know if I ruin the bike... :D
 
Wait, wait, wait. Really, don't waste your money on that Suntour, there are better options. If you look on Ebay you can find something like an 2001-2002 Rock Shox Sid XC for about $100, they can be set at 63mm. You could also try and find a older fork like a Marzocchi Atom or other 80mm model. They will have much better dampening, stiffness, and work much better than that SR fork which is a joke.
 
Don't sweat the geometry changes...I have some Trek something or other that came with maybe a 1-2" front-shock...I added a 4.5" one (115mm) and yes it sits up more..but you deal with it...not a big deal at all...ofcourse my bike was a threadless design...which is the 'normal' setup now...

IMO a 50mm shock would be worthless...since it would be so stiff I don't think it would give you any real movement...I understand wanting to do something, but I'd invest in a thick pair of riding gloves...nice padded palms to help cushion you...

Good luck..take some pics of you being a badass going off some sweet jumps!!

:D

Edit: I just remembered one of my first bikes...a Performance something or other...green I think...anyway..it had a front shock and was the threaded design like your's...so possibly look for one of those used...I would give you mine, but I threw the whole bike out after trying to repair a ripped off derailer (rode through a bush and it caught the derailer, broke the chain and bent the frame...I was pissed..we tied two belts together and my brother towed me out about 2 miles with his bike...nothing like 'ridding' 10-12 mph through a tight trail about 6 feet behind your tow bike... :eek: )
 
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Wait, wait, wait. Really, don't waste your money on that Suntour, there are better options. If you look on Ebay you can find something like an 2001-2002 Rock Shox Sid XC for about $100, they can be set at 63mm. You could also try and find a older fork like a Marzocchi Atom or other 80mm model. They will have much better dampening, stiffness, and work much better than that SR fork which is a joke.
I was just trying to go cheapo. But I guess I could fork over $100 for a Rock Shox setup, I've seen some 80mm "Judy" forks that might fit on eBay.

No one mentioned whether or not Suntour was complete crap, but I guess it is, so I'll steer away from that.

:cheers:
 
Hmmmm...I read this with interest....I've got a '90's era specialized rock hopper with no susp. and a rock shox that smeone gave me.....being 42 and returning to mtn. after several years off my shoulders took a pounding....My current thinking it to citifu the rock hopper with slicks and no susp. into my commuter and purchase a "moderm" mtn bike.....
 
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