Strange issue with 2008 LC - VSC Error Light Non starter, now dead and radiator shows leakage. (1 Viewer)

[BookerNoe]

Hey guys - Long time no see. I'm curious if someone would lend me a hand here. I have no clue whats going on with my Cruiser.

So since COVID-19 I haven't used my truck much. My wife and I and kids can all stay home and we have for 98% of the time.

As a result of that, occasionally when starting the truck it would make a large rattle sound when starting up that I chalked up to the fan belt and components not being regulary used or lubricated with fluids. It woudl last about 4 seconds then it was gone. I just used it a week ago to drop my boat at a lift on a local lake, no problems at all.

Fast forward to today. I go outside to grab a new lawn mower, hit the button and nothing but dash lights, with the rapid clicking sound and the error that states "Check VSC System". I assume that means I need to detach, and reattach the battery as we got a ton of rain last night and she sits outside, but dont' have time to do it as I have work to do so I use my wifes Highlander.

Well I just went outside now, and tried to put the key fob up to the start button and nothing. Dead as a doornail. Zip.

Pop the hood and I see that it looks like I have coolant that leaked all over the top of my radiator. My only assumption is that that leaked onto an electrical component and shorted something causing the issue. I'm not seeing any under the vehicle and not really anywhere else (rain could have easily washed the driveway but not under the hood?). Any thoughts or advice would be great here. I'll be stuck getting it on a flatbed (I had to do that in Oct with the dreaded starter failure) again and taken care of and pray its not a small fortune.

Pics attached, thanks everyone!

 

[CharlieS]

Sure looks like the standard radiator failure, and sounds like a weak or dead battery.

 

[BookerNoe]

Sure looks like the standard radiator failure, and sounds like a weak or dead battery.

That would seem really odd. I replaced the Radiator like 18 months ago. All OEM. Lets hope not. But that would be preferred than something else

 

[CharlieS]

I'm no pro tech, but the spray patterns sure look like coolant is spraying from the typical crack on the riser to the radiator. It looks like you installed the "old style" radiator - the new one has a smoother ramp transition to that flat spot.

 

[TeCKis300]

Could be a coincidence that multiple things are going on.

A radiator leak/failure will generally not cause a vehicle to not start. Unless you overheated the motor and put her away hot.

From the symptoms you're describing, sounds like the battery is flat. And at this point, also failed. The rapid clicking could be the starter relay failing to engage and start as the battery is too low.

The coolant could be related but it could also just be a different issue. The residue and pattern are common to a stress fracture vulnerability of older radiators. Usually takes 100k miles to develop. That sure doesn't look like a new radiator that's only 18 mths old.

 

[BookerNoe]

Battery maybe, but I also had the starter done in October! JFC. I really hope this is something simple. Starting to regret the offer I got in February I nearly took

 

[Sandroad]

In my finest armchair mechanic mode, I say you need a new radiator and new battery. The spray pattern from the radiator looks exactly like the leak is at the usual weak spot. Are you certain the shop used a new radiator? Very odd you got the old style since the new style has been available for 2 years. Maybe you got in on the last of the old style and for some reason it failed very early. The starting issue sounds exactly like a bad battery. How old is the battery? Put in a new one, clean those terminals, and I'll bet it will fire right up. Maybe the rattling sound was dried up coolant on the belt.

 

[afgman786]

Battery definitely looks old, you can see some acid under the terminals. Also when zooming in on your radiator picture it looks like the fracture is there. The fact that there is no coolant in the tank also makes a strong case for bad radiator.

 

[linuxgod]

As others noted the starting failure is 99% likely the battery. Had something similar happen to me a month ago. Only had a couple ~1 mile trips over the span of ~6 weeks. Went to start it is was a slow crank but started OK. I pulled out of the garage and turned it off not really thinking. When I went to restart a few minutes later the starter clicked a few times but it wouldn't turn over. Tried again and one or two clicks. Then again and nothing. I put it on a trickle charger for maybe two hours and when I came back it started fine. Took it for a drive for an hour. Been fine since though I've been trying to just go for a drive once a week now. Note I did top off the battery with distilled water after this as I noticed it was a bit low.

Not sure your battery age but my OEM lasted about 6 years. In my experience if the battery is in good condition she'll fire right up - if not it seems to crank a few times before engaging. That was very apparent when I swapped mine out.

 

[ThomasGS4]

I think the folks above covered your issues for the most part; weak battery and failed radiator.

As for the rattle you hear on start up, it is most likely the timing chain tensioner. Those work off of oil pressure, so it'll take a second for them to tension once pressure builds.

 

[BookerNoe]

So apparently I'm an idiot - I searched the My Toyota portal and I don't see a Radiator replacement but I SWEAR I did. Checked my wifes HH too and nothing so if that was on my old 4Runner my wine habit is a problem. I'll keep you posted