Steel vs Wood Shop Construction (1 Viewer)

[Mid TN]

It's been 9 years since I had my last 30 x 50 x 10 shop, built it myself in 1988. It was all wood framed concrete floor and a Aluminum roof.

Finally....I mean finally, ready to build a 50 x 74 x 14 shop. Everybody keeps telling me go metal. I got prices from a couple different places, $27,000 to $28,000, just the frame, skin and insulation. They want $10,000 to put it up!

I got a lumber price for 2x6 walls 16" o.c., 3/12 truss 2' o.c., OSB over everything and a metal roof, $15,000!

Was thinking about putting up 3 course of block, with a footer built into the slab, then a 2x8 plate with 4x6 post, pole barn style, then 2x4's inside and out for metal inside and out. This is being built in southern Tennessee, so we only allow for 12-18" for frost. Anybody heard of doing it this way? I have priced it this way yet, but bet it's even cheaper.

Oh ya, it will have a 2-Post lift!

 

[TX_TLC]

I'm subscribing. I am planning my shop currently and looking at a 30x50 and am going back and forth between wood or metal.

 

[snobdds]

I have always been under the assumption of; Metal shops costs more, but the labor to install is less. Wood shops cost less but are more expensive to install due to added labor costs. Concrete costs what it costs, no getting around that.

Your quotes on the materials seem pretty reasonable, the quote to put up the metal building seems a bit high though. Are you willing to pay for the convenience?

A crew can probably install that metal building in about 4 days. At roughly $1,500 per day labor cost, the builder is making a cool $4,000 on you. However he has expenses like man lifts and other things to make him efficient and in business, but those are fixed cost spread over time for him. I'm sure there is some wiggle room in there for him Now a wood building that size is a 5-6 day project. If you have the same running cost per day in labor, lifts etc...then you might save a grand.

So the question is, what is better for you, metal or wood if the install is about the same. Are you willing to pay a premium for metal?

Oh, the best thing you can do to a shop is insulate it. Don't cheap out on that...

 

[micruz60]

May also consider factoring in fire resistant construction cost.

 

[Clutchee]

Built a shop last year: Full metal shop
*40'X60' with a 20' lean too down one of 60' sides
* 3 doors (2- 18' doors/ 1- 10' door)
* concrete was done with a drive up pad out front

total with concrete
$62,500

 

[Mid TN]

Got my building permit yesterday, $25 and only need a electrical inspection from the power company, got to love Tennessee!
I can't swallow the $10,000 install fee for metal. I talked to a guy who put up a 40' x 80 metal building and did it all himself. Him and a help worked on it all day and he had more help on the weekends, took him about a month and he rented a scissor lift for the month, $1000. He used the lift to raise the steel truss, bolted together, in place.

It will be well insulated, heated and AC!

Anybody hear of concrete with stainless steel clips mixed in it, instead of using rerod or fiberglass? My concrete guy says it is the best stuff!?!

 

[grapestomper]

It is concrete fibers. If they put enough in to the mix it does take the place of the rebar.
Most of the concrete guys like it because it is less work for them. You pay for it in the cost of the concrete.
Since you have such little frost there the fibers would be a good way to go.

 

[Mid TN]

No, not fiberglass, this is actually stainless steel clips, the concrete guy said, like paper clips that lock together in the mix. I have not see it yet, but will post a pic. when they pour.

 

[grapestomper]

They still call them fibers. Just steel fibers. They have lots of bends in them and just mix together when the concrete is poured.

 

[Mid TN]

Pic shows the stainless wire in the concrete mix. There was some thin concrete they skimmed off the floor, when you picked it up it broke, but the wire held it together surprisingly good!

 

[Mid TN]

Pics of the left and right side concrete pours and the block after it was laid.

 

[namsag]

Very nice sir I will be watching and learning. I have a shop on my list too. I plan to divide mine and finish out half of it for a hang-out man cave. Do you plan to do so and how will you do it?

 

[Mid TN]

i will be dividing it, but no "Man Cave". 34' x 50' will have a 2-post lift, heated and air conditioned, work shop. The other side, 40' x 50' is storage for farm equipment, boats, vehicles.

I'm ready to get lumber and was hoping to get a good start on it while off for 3 days over the Fourth. It has not stopped raining and is suppose to rain till Thursday!

 

[namsag]

Well good luck with it, will be watching. If you don't mind another question, what are your plans for the A/C system?

 

[Mid TN]

3.5 Ton AC, 90% eff. propane furnace. Lucky me, my brother-in Law does HVAC on the side, so he will do it for his cost. Might put a wood burner in too, will see how the furnace does. Plus I have 20+ acres of woods, so no problem getting it. I don't plan to keep it very warm in the winter, though our winters are never too cold. Probably just 50 degrees or so, unless painting or varnishing, then i can go warmer. With the 2x6 walls an the additional 2x4 girts, I should be able to get 7" of insulation in the walls and I will insulate the ceiling even more.

 

[ponytl]

very nice, As a builder/design of over 30 years... just a few things I'd add in a shop space (for me 7 my needs)
A. a floor drain somewhere I might want to have an area I could convert/close off as a makeshift paint booth
B. a drive through ie an over head door in the rear that lines up with one of the front overhead doors if you mess with much equipment or trailers or vehicles that don't run it's nice to be able to pull them in.
C. height... it really doesn't cost a lot to go higher and a mezzanine makes a great storage area or even a clean room for assembly work for engines ect.. then you need an I-beam and trolly.
d. I always leave at least 1 run of 2-3" pvc pipe run under a slab (capped off) midway just in case I have to get something underground to the other side.. (anal I know)

for your build I might have looked into SIPs structural insulated panels you can get them 9ft x 40ft lifted with pump jacks, forklift or small crane... you get sheathed insulated walls in one step, use them to sheath the roof with properly engineered trusses and you can space your trusses 4-5ft o/c... you can then asphalt shingle directly onto them in your climate or use furring strips and a metal roof ( you need the air gap for metal) same thing for siding I always want a felt paper (vs house wrap) and furring strips even if it's only 3/8" you need a drainage/air gap

just my 2cents.. but then I way overbuild and spend 3x as much time on a jobsite as anyone I know...

good luck with your build
p

 

[ponytl]

3.5 Ton AC, 90% eff. propane furnace. Lucky me, my brother-in Law does HVAC on the side, so he will do it for his cost. Might put a wood burner in too, will see how the furnace does. Plus I have 20+ acres of woods, so no problem getting it. I don't plan to keep it very warm in the winter, though our winters are never too cold. Probably just 50 degrees or so, unless painting or varnishing, then i can go warmer. With the 2x6 walls an the additional 2x4 girts, I should be able to get 7" of insulation in the walls and I will insulate the ceiling even more.

man just saw you are in WINCHESTER do you know Scotty & Suzie now living in Memphis?