Start Up RPMs

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we seem to have one of these inconclusive start up rev threads every few weeks or so. Nothing makes sense. could it be related to the fact we are messing with the throttle cable. what doies a dashpot do anyway?
 
Mine has the same issue.


Only thing I can add is that I've had to disconnect the battery a few times recently and each time it would lower the idle to 750ish on startup. Within a day or so the high idle would return.
 
Rookie2 said:
Makes me wonder if cleaning your TB may be more of a low idle problem resolution than high idle. :beer:
Rookie2
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Rookie-

My experience leads me to the same conclusion. I was having low idle issues at stop lights. Cleaned things up and its been 6 months since the low idle problem returned. I was optimistically hoping it would lower the high idle startup as well - no dice. My high idle startup is close to 2k cold. I still haven't enough consistency in anyone's report of something to fix it.
 
MoJ said:
http://www.safari4x4.com.au/80scool/tech/fast_idle/fast_idle.html

That's the link I've used in the past although I can't seem to get it to work this AM.

Eduardo -
What were your results from the O-ring mod?
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OK I just got finished with my o-ring mod.

My old startup idle was 1600 rpm and now it's 800. I let it cool down 3 times since I did the mod and always 800, OK maybe 1000 for 1 second then 800.

I used the (2) ring method even thou the instruction says to use 2 if your startup idle was 2000 rpm. I might go back and try (1) o-ring, especially if I travel up north.

FWIW, I had to pull my TB off because I striped the lower phillips head screw. I replace the IAC screws for a M5 hex screw, 15mm I think.

The rest is pretty straight foward other than a few IAC parts trying to escape.

I purchased the o-rings from NAPA for 50 cents.

2 bannana job. :)
 
Lurker,

Just for craps and laughs, try pulling your EFI fuse for about 60 seconds. It will run badly for a few starts until the EFI system gets its bearings. Let us know if that now affects your startup idle.

Thanks,

C.
 
crholliday said:
Lurker,

Just for craps and laughs, try pulling your EFI fuse for about 60 seconds. It will run badly for a few starts until the EFI system gets its bearings. Let us know if that now affects your startup idle.

Thanks,

C.
Click to expand...

I pulled the EFI fuse for 60 seconds and replaced it.... nothing changed.

What am I looking for? I hope that I'm spiting $100 bills out my exhaust or it added 200 extra hp. :confused:
 
Lurker said:
I pulled the EFI fuse for 60 seconds and replaced it.... nothing changed.

What am I looking for? I hope that I'm spiting $100 bills out my exhaust or it added 200 extra hp.
Click to expand...

Nothing?!?!? :eek:

It didnt even run badly for a few starts? I was curious because this resets the EFI... ummm.... stuff. Ok, experiment over :D

C.
 
i don't know how long you have to pull it to reset the ECU but 60 seconds is not enough, although it is enough to clear any stored check engine codes on an obd1.
 
MoJ said:
Disconnecting the battery does the same thing shouldn't it?
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Moj,

Hey thanks for the link to the instruction. :cool:
 
Moj said:
Disconnecting the battery does the same thing shouldn't it?
Click to expand...

It will clear the EFI stuff, but it can also do other stuff... like clear the stereo security code :whoops:


C.
 
I found pulling the EFI fuse only clears the memory for the CE light.
If you pull the battery cable for some time ( I don't know how long) will clear the ECU memory and make the motor run ruff ruff :)
 
crholliday said:
It will clear the EFI stuff, but it can also do other stuff... like clear the stereo security code :whoops:


C.
Click to expand...

Don't know why, but I have never had to reset any settings on the stereo or mess with the security code when either pulling the EFI or battery cables. I've heard of it, but never had to do it (reset the security code) ... thank goodness.

:beer:
Rookie2
 
Rookie2,
Your radio may not have the security code set. It is an installation option and most don't have it.
-B-
 
MoJ,
Thanks for the link above...did the 2 oring because start up on was in the 2k range. Bottom screw was a biatch though. Got it to move using chisel (very gingerly with the small hammer) after it moved was able to use the long reach philips head. Start up idle is @1K briefly then down to 800 then 550/600.
 
toddslater said:
MoJ,
Thanks for the link above...did the 2 oring because start up on was in the 2k range. Bottom screw was a biatch though. Got it to move using chisel (very gingerly with the small hammer) after it moved was able to use the long reach philips head. Start up idle is @1K briefly then down to 800 then 550/600.
Click to expand...

Yes the bottom screw was a biatch also; had to pull TB off, but I also got into problems with the 3 brass screws holding the actuator, Mr. needle nosed vise grips got those started.

I've only been on this board about 6 months and this issue has been mis-beaten to death.

Junk, do you think that this one deserves a sticky? :confused:
 
Wonder if anyone in a really cold climate has had starting issues after doing this mod since it restricts the amount of air that's allowed to bypass the butterfly. Guess all else failed you could just use the accelerator pedal to open the butterfly and allow more air in?
 
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