Spilled some Line-X on the 80

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e9999 said:
do they look weird from close up, as in looking "thick" and "rough" or "like bad body work" so to speak?

You've seen pickup trucks with Line-X or Rhino lining or whatever they call it. That's what it looks like. Some look "better" than others depending on the quality of the product and the experience of the installer. I saw a big Dodge truck up close this morning and the quality of the install was outstanding. The lining was ~2mm thick. However, it is designed to be "thick and rough so to speak." I wouldn't consider it to look like bad body work though.

-B-
 
It looks the same as if it were in the bed of a truck. The texture is there but is nice and uniform with a fairly consistant thickness throughout. It in no way, at least in my case, resembles or could be mistaken for bad body work. I have seen a cruiser up close that had some color matched roll on stuff applied. That had a kind of odd appearance to it. The product did not look like bed liner.
 
You mention the side molding was a pain to remove, how did you do it and what were the pains? Very nice looking outcome!!!
 
The 2 sided tape that Toyota uses is freakishly strong and sticky. I think its made by 3M. There have been several threads discussing the best way to remove this stuff from the paint. When you pull the moulding it leaves a nice stripe of tape adhered to the side. I used 3M adhesive remover solvent and a plastic bondo putty knife to get it off. There was also liberal use of my fingernails. There is just no easy way to get this stuff off. When it was all said and done I had several hours invested in adhesive removal.
 
Beautiful job - your truck looks great.
 
Trapper said:
I used 3M adhesive remover solvent and a plastic bondo putty knife to get it off.

The factory rack rails are attached with the same stuff. I used a rubber wheel available at auto body supply shops. It made fairly quick work of it. The rubber wheel has a mandrel and fits to a cordless drill and acts like a big eraser.

-B-
 
Beowulf said:
The factory rack rails are attached with the same stuff. I used a rubber wheel available at auto body supply shops. It made fairly quick work of it. The rubber wheel has a mandrel and fits to a cordless drill and acts like a big eraser.

-B-

I thank you imensley, my rack rail adhesive is still up there as I hadn't come up with a good way to get rid of it in this lifetime. Man I love this forum. :D
 
Trapper said:
The 2 sided tape that Toyota uses is freakishly strong and sticky. I think its made by 3M. There have been several threads discussing the best way to remove this stuff from the paint. When you pull the moulding it leaves a nice stripe of tape adhered to the side. I used 3M adhesive remover solvent and a plastic bondo putty knife to get it off. There was also liberal use of my fingernails. There is just no easy way to get this stuff off. When it was all said and done I had several hours invested in adhesive removal.
I know the moulding has pins through the body...do any of the pins have nuts on the back?
 
There are no nuts attaching the moulding. Each piece has a couple of short stubs that fit into holes in the body. It just rests in there. Looks like it is more for alignment.
 
slomo said:
I thank you imensley, my rack rail adhesive is still up there as I hadn't come up with a good way to get rid of it in this lifetime. Man I love this forum. :D

Me too. :D Someone else posted about the rubber wheel. Seems the professional body guys have run into this sticky adhesive before us and have come up with a quicker and easier solution that we would never know about until someone tells us.

Wheel_Eraser.jpg


-B-
 
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Did the opened wheel on the right do the whole roof on your rig or did you need more than one and have a spare (left)? Thanks for the pic now I just need to locate an auto body supply shop.


Beowulf said:
Me too. :D Someone else posted about the rubber wheel. Seems the professional body guys have run into this sticky adhesive before us and have come up with a quicker and easier solution that we would never know about until someone tells us.

Wheel_Eraser.jpg


-B-
 
cruiser4life said:
Wow - your 80 looks even better than when I saw it in March on the club ride. Hope to see it again soon to check out in person.

Good work, looks awesome!


Ditto. Since you didn't apply it along the bottom half of the doors, are you worried about rock chips and such along your rocker panel where the extra "width" of the tires beyond the flares might kick trail gunk up?
 
slomo said:
Did the opened wheel on the right do the whole roof on your rig or did you need more than one and have a spare (left)?

The wheel on the right did the roof. The kit that I bought had the mandrel and 2 eraser wheels.

-B-
 
Beowulf said:
The wheel on the right did the roof. The kit that I bought had the mandrel and 2 eraser wheels.

-B-

Much obliged. :cheers:
 
No sand in the mixture to my knowledge. Just your plain, basic black Line-X. Is sand something that is usually added?

slick621 said:
Ditto. Since you didn't apply it along the bottom half of the doors, are you worried about rock chips and such along your rocker panel where the extra "width" of the tires beyond the flares might kick trail gunk up?

Not too worried about it. The sliders are there and help cover the width of the tire. Most of the trail trash and rocks collects/bounces off of them. I'll find out more when I get to wheel it in a week or so.
 
Trapper said:
No sand in the mixture to my knowledge. Just your plain, basic black Line-X. Is sand something that is usually added?

Sand can be added if desired. According to the instruction (I have), sand makes thicker consistency and when dried, it has that sand paper type surface. I am not sure some linexs or bed liner materials come with this already in the mixture. This is not regular sand, some special kind of sand, can't remember the name of it. I am getting ready to do mine, that's why I asked. Sand is optional, apparently.
 
I've heard these wheels referred to as "erasers" by paint and body guys. Evidently they use them for pinstripe, overspray, vandalized by spray-paint damage and decal removal.
 
I keep returning over and over to this thread. Your truck looks absolutely fantastic!

I'm thinking hard about this route, for different reasons. The only door dings I have (2) are right in that area......Your cost is about the same as paintless dent removal. (Shameless pansy confession)

My wife drives our 80, so I have no lift, sliders, or bumpers, yet. So flares and running boards are still in place. I'm think about having the flares done as well, off of the truck.

Again, GREAT looking truck!
 
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