Somewhat RTH; Cooling System Question

[RDM303]

This one may be an easy one, but it has me stumped.

I am preparing to head to NM/CO from DFW tomorrow and while checking the truck out I noticed the engine temps are slightly higher than usual. Since the fan clutch mod 3 weeks ago temps have been pretty stable at ~200 idling and ~195 for city driving and lower on the hwy according to the Ultragauge (this is in ~100 ambient, btw). Today I noticed the truck is idling at 195 and is above 200 (93 ambient) when driving and peaked at 208 on a 5 mile trip in traffic. I haven't had a chance to look at it on the highway or for sustained city driving because of traffic, but needless to say this is a little disheartening and is making me reconsider driving to New Mexico in the truck.

Here is a little history
~200k
New HG, water pump and Thermostat about 3 months ago.
fan clutch refill with 20,000 CST about 4 weeks ago (prior was running at 204 consistently and the ac struggled)
Coolant flush 2 weeks ago
changed t-case oil yesterday
Currently running w/o front driveshaft because of failing u-joints (I was gonna put it in when I got there.)
No leaks
oil and coolant look clean
Probably original radiator
Man-a-Fre 4 plus level stance (J's out back, iirc)
Full armor and winch

Anyone have any thoughts on a) WTF is going on here? and 2) should I drive this thing a thousand mile as is?

 

[western flyer]

Consider what you mentioned, I am thinking the rad has had its day. I think it is partially clogged (even with a flush). I did not see a cap mentioned, you could try a new OEM rad cap.

 

[boydmick]

Just for reference; Toyota considers the normal operating range to be ~195-217.

For some reason most of us here on Mud are hyper sensitive to engine temps. I know I get twitchy anytime the truck runs over 185 but I have to keep telling myself that this is normal.

If the radiator is original it is probably due for replacement. In addition to aftermarket, there are two different factory radiators available for the 80. A 3 row brass and plastic or a 2 row aluminum and plastic. The general consensus is that the 3 row is a superior design, but do your own research and make your own choice.

HTH

 

[RDM303]

Radiator cap is OEM and replaced 1-2 years ago.

Thanks for the input. I got it on the highway and it stayed at 199 with an ambient temperature of about 90. I think my issues were a sustained cycle of stop and go traffic. I am thinking the truck will be fine for the trip, but I may attempt to replace the radiator in Denver because I will have some free time. I would really like to get my temperatures down in the low 190's or better.

-Bob

 

[greentruck]

The creeping up of temps when it should be running cooler isn't a good sign. I just went through this, fan clutch mod, etc, and ended up very happy with a new radiator.

You should be OK getting to Denver if you watch your temp closely. I could always turn off the AC and cool it down, even right at the end. The main thing will be long uphill pulls.

The radiator swap is about a and a half job . The tricky thing is pulling the battery box(es) to free the shroud. Careful with it, as it'll be pretty brittle after being under the hood for more than a decade and a half. Pulling the lights loose makes getting the top two mount bolts easy. Best be safe with the oil cooler/heater fittings and remove before installation then install them after the radiator is mounted.

OEM radiators are really cheap right now. Check recent threads for discussion. I went with a Koyo from Autocool and was very happy with the service (it was on the porch with free shipping in about 48 hours from TN to IL.), but it wasn't that much cheaper than OEM pricing right now. The free shipping may make the difference depending on where you ship to.

Good luck

 

[RedCruiser80]

Put a 3-row in about 8 or 9 years ago and never looked back. Highly recommended for all conditions--on road and off. Only drive the thing about 7k miles a year so it's still going strong.