Snorkle set up

[JohnL]

I'm planning on installing a Safari snorkle and am assembling the right parts...

One of the previous owners pulled out the airbox and mounted a 12" round filter directly to the top of the carb. I don't have the airbox. I was thinking of grabbing an airbox from the junkyard (one that had matching exit hole diameter at the right angle to hit the carb) and bolting/bracing that in place. It I can't find the right diameter/setup, I'll probably put in an adapter or block off the hole and cut a new one in the aitbox and run a hose from the box to the carb mouth. The one thing I am concerned about is rainwater/dampness collecting in the air box. Since I don't have one to look at and the SOR pics aren's clear on this detail, is there some sort of 1-way valve or other drainage method for collected water to exit before being fed to the carb?

And while I say I'm looking at Safari, I'll admit I've also been surveying the Heep parts dealers for options and want to be sure I thoroughly understand the functions before I go for something not explicitly endorsed for FJ40 use...


Also, if anyone wants to sell me an FJ40 airbox cheap, that would be much appreciated also. Already checked Cruiserparts.net


THanks all,
John

 

[Outback]

Do you need an F or 2F air cleaner? I have an excellent 2F air cleaner for sale.

If you end up going with an "F" air cleaner, hang tight and I'll take some pics of my custom snorkel setup tonight. You might like it. A very clean setup made with custom bent exhaust pipe. This one don't look booty-fab at all.

Jody.

 

[skyshark186]

Saw a sort of inverted cone just beaneath the inlet up top on one sometime. I think the idea was to narrow down the air flow a little bit(inch maybe) and all the water that ran down the outside of the pvc would get caught and evaporated by air flow. Looked like it worked well enough.

 

[JohnL]

Jody,
Right on, I'd love to see some pics. New exhaust will be fitted in a few weeks too so always like to see those options. As for the engine, I've got something of a hodgepodge of F and 2F parts all working together...I'll measure the carb inlet diameter tonight. the only obstructions on the Driver's side are teh booster and clutch masters. Lots of room on that side.

Sky, I've seen that too...also been told to just turn the snorkle inlet backwards when its raining to keep water out, but that seems neither condusive to positive airflow (opening would be in a vacuum!) nor 100% effective.


John

 

[chuglife]

i think this guys snorkel is working for him, with the water collector and stuff. i don't personally know the guy, and i'm not sure if he'll be mad if i link this... 56k shouldn't bother, its down near the end of a long page of pictures. check it: http://members.myecom.net/kmcwilli/

 

[JohnL]

Chuglife,
Thanks for the link. Ihat's the ultimate bootyfab...home depot valves...Mine is a pretty thorough restoration, so I'm looking for a nice finish.

Outback, you got those pics?

thanks

 

[JohnL]

Oh yeah, any pics of ARB snorkle details much appreciated. I've seen the insatall pics on a '60, am particularly interested in pics and descriptions of how the ARBs handle water drainage. I hate the look of the centrifugal pre-filters. To me, they look really goofy. Want to have the scoop-style and ensure good rain/snow/condensation water is drained well.

Does the stock airbox have a water drainage valve? I've got one on the way, don't have one in front of me and the SOR disgram isn't clear..

Thanks again

 

[Chase77]

I'd also like to see some pics of the bent tube. Around here any trails are full of sh^t that will definitely pull against the snorkel and I was kinda worried how plastic would hold up in the worst case scenerio ....... since they are so inexpensive @ 250 bucks.

 

[JohnL]

Do we think 3" stainless mandrel bent steel with a black scoop will look good? That's what I'm dreaming of, but I need help with ensuring the ambient water/condensation doesn't end up in the carb...

 

[chuglife]

Chuglife,
Thanks for the link. Ihat's the ultimate bootyfab...home depot valves...Mine is a pretty thorough restoration, so I'm looking for a nice finish.

Outback, you got those pics?

thanks

the point is, though, that all that is underneath his body panel. in other words, the valve could be located under the hood, and the whole thing could be made with whatever kind of piping you want.

 

[skyshark186]

Chuglife,
Thanks for the link. Ihat's the ultimate bootyfab...home depot valves...Mine is a pretty thorough restoration, so I'm looking for a nice finish.

thanks

I've got something of a hodgepodge of F and 2F parts all working together...

Interesting choice of wording. Restoration is going back as close to factory as physically possible.

Unfortunately you best course of action is probably trial and error. The only way to find out if an ARB would fail in your area is to find someone who runs the same trails you do with one and see. Other than that it might be best to build a "cheap home depot" system and that way you know what will break and how well the water system works. Then once youve got a more refined idea of what you want build the permanant system.

My .02.

Actually i think that was .04 since it was two thoughts.

 

[JohnL]

OK, "restification," if you will. Every bit of steel has been stripped and got either 3 coats of POR15 or was finished with epoxy primer and PPG Urethane. Every bolt has been replaced with stainless steel or grade 8, and every mechanical system outside of the engine block has been serviced, replaced or upgraded.

I don't think an ARB snorkle would necessarily fail, but its a steep price to have something just like everyone else. I'm looking to see how ARB and other snorkles handle water so I can consider designing one using mandrel-bent stainless tubing.

I'm hoping to get some advice or see how others handle this issue because I don't want to trial-and-error with something as final as hydro-locking.

best,
john