I saw red dawn, I can pee in it, it'll be okay.
Smittybilt Gen2 winches
- Thread starter NolanFJ60
- Start date
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I saw red dawn, I can pee in it, it'll be okay.
Looking at the 80 spec I found the Curb Weight to be at 4834 lbs.
There is a big difference here compared to the 6300 lbs on the scale as the other member stated on the previous page.
What am I missing here?
There is a big difference here compared to the 6300 lbs on the scale as the other member stated on the previous page.
What am I missing here?
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Jesus christ...
I was thinking about him. He probably does have the answer.
Maybe go back and read what I wrote. Your reading comprehension skills are on par with your mechanical kowledge and aptitude.
Why are you so sour? Did Jesus tell you about my mechanics knowledge and aptitude?
"Ran my 80 across the scales this morning. 6300 lbs with me in it and an almost empty tank of fuel. Add 140lbs of fuel, 100 lbs of sliders?, 100 lbs of winch, 100 lbs of skid plates?, 100 lbs rear bumper and lets say 150 lbs for a spare wheel/tire in the 40" flavor. I figure probably around 7000 lbs"
Since all the equipment added to your truck brings the weight to about 7,000 lbs, and without it sits around 6,300 with you in it, I can figure out your body weight is around 1,466 lbs (give or take a few lbs worth of gasoline in the tank.
That's an ugly creature to look at. Seriously. Ouch.
"Ran my 80 across the scales this morning. 6300 lbs with me in it and an almost empty tank of fuel. Add 140lbs of fuel, 100 lbs of sliders?, 100 lbs of winch, 100 lbs of skid plates?, 100 lbs rear bumper and lets say 150 lbs for a spare wheel/tire in the 40" flavor. I figure probably around 7000 lbs"
Since all the equipment added to your truck brings the weight to about 7,000 lbs, and without it sits around 6,300 with you in it, I can figure out your body weight is around 1,466 lbs (give or take a few lbs worth of gasoline in the tank.
That's an ugly creature to look at. Seriously. Ouch.
What are you even on about? You don't like my 80? Good for you.
You told me how you turned over a hydro locked engine with a starter... Yeah.
Why am I sour? Your spewing of stupid s*** and misinformation while trying to "correct" me.
I'll let my build stand for itself.
Actually I should thank you, this is more fun than the super bowl.
I'm thinking you didn't read all the posts.
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All I wanted to know is about the discrepancy between your 6300 lbs vehicle with you in it and what the typical website states the weight of the TLC is.
It looks like your planned added equipment will be around 700 lbs to a total of 7000 lbs, as you stated.
Do you have anything else on your truck to bring it to 6300 lbs with you in it? Is it stock?
That's what I am trying to get to.
And yes, anyone can get a non firing engine with a manual transmission out of a bad situation by simply using the starter. That cannot be done with any automatic transmission to the best of my knowledge. I did several times, when my car got stuck in water. I can also float the gears in a manual too. I drove manuals for 20 years.
Now, tell me what exactly is stupid in what I said and what do you consider to be misinformation.
If you have access to a manual tranny car, let me know. I can tell you exactly what you can do in order to replicate and verify what I stated above. This way you can verify my mechanical knowledge and aptitude.
In case you can't figure out what I said, ask around and educate yourself.
I can search youtube and probably find a visual for you on what I said about the manual tranny and the starter. But, I don't have to prove anything, so you can do it yourself.
It looks like your planned added equipment will be around 700 lbs to a total of 7000 lbs, as you stated.
Do you have anything else on your truck to bring it to 6300 lbs with you in it? Is it stock?
That's what I am trying to get to.
And yes, anyone can get a non firing engine with a manual transmission out of a bad situation by simply using the starter. That cannot be done with any automatic transmission to the best of my knowledge. I did several times, when my car got stuck in water. I can also float the gears in a manual too. I drove manuals for 20 years.
Now, tell me what exactly is stupid in what I said and what do you consider to be misinformation.
If you have access to a manual tranny car, let me know. I can tell you exactly what you can do in order to replicate and verify what I stated above. This way you can verify my mechanical knowledge and aptitude.
In case you can't figure out what I said, ask around and educate yourself.
I can search youtube and probably find a visual for you on what I said about the manual tranny and the starter. But, I don't have to prove anything, so you can do it yourself.
Plate on the frame. Hydro assist. Cummins. Getrag (5 spd manual). NP205 cast iron gear driven tcase. 3 link with 14" 2.5 coilovers. Air bumps. Lots of plate, gussets, and tube. Etc etc
My build isn't really comparable to most 80s. There is a whole thread dedicated to the weight of 80s.
Again if your engine is hydrolocked you won't be turning it over. I don't disagree that you can get a manual vehicle to move, if your engine won't run, by bumping the starter, if the engine will turn over. That wasn't really it though.
Now you answered my question, thank you. Your car is heavier than stock to begin with, especially if that Cummins is a 6 cylinder engine.
My initial reason for getting into this topic was to find out what winch I need.
My truck is mostly stock, except for the ARB front bumper, rear custom made bumper with tire carrier on it and 285/75 16 tires.
With the driver and some extra gear in the car and the weight of the winch I would estimate the weight to be around 5500 lbs. Using the 1.5 multiplier factor I think I should be safe with a 9500 lbs capacity winch. Would that be OK?
My initial reason for getting into this topic was to find out what winch I need.
My truck is mostly stock, except for the ARB front bumper, rear custom made bumper with tire carrier on it and 285/75 16 tires.
With the driver and some extra gear in the car and the weight of the winch I would estimate the weight to be around 5500 lbs. Using the 1.5 multiplier factor I think I should be safe with a 9500 lbs capacity winch. Would that be OK?
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I think 9500 lbs is about spot on for a moderately outfitted 80.
Thanks
Hey Max, that hummin cummins, whadayou really think of it... I've considered the swap, but quite frankly, I've been driving 18 wheelers for a long time and can't wait to retire ( this October) and get as far away as possible from diesels for all the typical reasons... And to add more fuel, I used to re-start my jeeps on the trail, in 1st, low range, clutch engaged all the time... Once in a very great while I miss the manual tranny for that reason alone....
Well... I know it's definitely not for everybody, and hell probably not for most but it's definitely for me.
You know how they are though. Loud, shaky, and pull like hell. I think the guys who have done the "kit" type swaps have theres a little more refined maybe. Mines not much of a daily driver to start with. I'm pretty happy with it though.
It's about like being in a dodge with a 12 valve as far as noise level. If you haven't driven a 12 or 24 valve cummins lately I'd suggest you spend some time doing so before deciding.
I'm sure you could have a gas v8 in for much less cost and headache but for me it was the only way to go.
You know how they are though. Loud, shaky, and pull like hell. I think the guys who have done the "kit" type swaps have theres a little more refined maybe. Mines not much of a daily driver to start with. I'm pretty happy with it though.
It's about like being in a dodge with a 12 valve as far as noise level. If you haven't driven a 12 or 24 valve cummins lately I'd suggest you spend some time doing so before deciding.
I'm sure you could have a gas v8 in for much less cost and headache but for me it was the only way to go.
Mines set up for long range cuz that's what we do,,, ( head west for extended trail running and camping ) so when the time comes, if ever, I'll be checking in to all options... I on the other hand, understood immediately why your beast is so heavy.
I'll be buying the XRC 9.5 this Friday. Before install I want to take the gear section apart, remove the factory grease (heard it's more like glue!) & replace it w/some good grease. Also, I'll RTV the solenoid if need be. I'd like to use some grease that's pretty common & found locally because I plan on doing maint. on it every year. 2 questions:
1) Would Lucas Red-N-Tacky be good grease or should I use something w/Moly?
2) Does the solenoid come pretty H2O proof on the XRC or should I RTV it?
Thanks.
1) Would Lucas Red-N-Tacky be good grease or should I use something w/Moly?
2) Does the solenoid come pretty H2O proof on the XRC or should I RTV it?
Thanks.
Just my personal opinion, but I've been using marine grade lithium grease for years in ujoints, in winches, and on my trailer axle hubs with great success.. BTW, that's the first thing I did with my old XRC, and it made a big difference in noise level and for free spooling the line out ..
Is marine lithium good for severely pressed/meshed gears? I'm sure it has the H2O defeating properties.
I've always taken my father in laws word on grease... 20 years merchant marine engineer, retired and has been enjoying his 42footer... for the past 25 years.. He has a big Ramsey winch up front packed with the good stuff ..
2) Does the solenoid come pretty H2O proof on the XRC or should I RTV it?
It is just my PO but I think waterproofing the solenoid would be a waste of time. #1, it's 12 volt,, it'll work just fine when wet or submerged, our starters and alternators are not "waterproofed" and they work just fine when soaked. #2 If you seal that thing up, and it still leaks a tiny bit or moisture condensates on the inside, it won't dry out and it'll get rusted very quickly and you won't even know it. #3 The add campaigns that the lower end winch companies are putting out, then adding an additional huge cost for the "waterproofing" ( caulking, O-rings, gasket ) are just that, an add campaign to sell winches. I don't ever recall a time in winch history that waterproofing was ever an issue. Really, when was the last time anyone has ever read about a winch failing because it was wet? Have a good day, and good luck with your new winch !!
It is just my PO but I think waterproofing the solenoid would be a waste of time. #1, it's 12 volt,, it'll work just fine when wet or submerged, our starters and alternators are not "waterproofed" and they work just fine when soaked. #2 If you seal that thing up, and it still leaks a tiny bit or moisture condensates on the inside, it won't dry out and it'll get rusted very quickly and you won't even know it. #3 The add campaigns that the lower end winch companies are putting out, then adding an additional huge cost for the "waterproofing" ( caulking, O-rings, gasket ) are just that, an add campaign to sell winches. I don't ever recall a time in winch history that waterproofing was ever an issue. Really, when was the last time anyone has ever read about a winch failing because it was wet? Have a good day, and good luck with your new winch !!