Noticed my coolant was low, just did a coolant flush and replaced hoses, gaskets, thermostat, etc. The bypass tube, the L shape from the block ( i will include photos shortly) looks like where it is coming from. I replaced all 3 gaskets, I put the 2 on the inside pipe, seated, and then taped the L pipe on and was able to bolt it on. Looks like one of the gaskets did seat, whats the best way to install this part and make sure all gaskets seat correctly? I figured since everything lined up that it was fine, but i guess im missing something.
small coolant leak, need advice.
- Thread starter Gunrunner235
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- #2
Not sure what "tape" would have been necessary. The heater, water outlet pipe "B", gasket just sits on the flange face. 15-lb·ft of torque on both nuts and it should seal. You may have to stone the faces to get them to clean up.
The No. 1 water bypass, below that, have two O-rings on it. I have never had any luck cleaning them, because they all seem to be covered in coolant crud (and I ruin them trying to lever them out of their holes). I've found it's better, and cheaper, to replace them.
The No. 1 water bypass, below that, have two O-rings on it. I have never had any luck cleaning them, because they all seem to be covered in coolant crud (and I ruin them trying to lever them out of their holes). I've found it's better, and cheaper, to replace them.
When you installed the new O-rings, did you clean the groove they sit in with Scotch-Brite (or equal) pads?
Did you clean the bore of the thermostat housing the small pipe and two o-rings sit into as well?
Did you lubricate the O-rings with antifreeze, KY or Vaseline before installation in order for them to slide in gracefully? Otherwise, they may bind during assembly and tightening and tend to leak.
If you did all those things, you may see some leaking initially until you run the engine up to full temp and hold it there a few times. If it continues to leak, you'll need to replace the O-rings, the short tube, and the L-Shaped pipe.
- Thread starter
- #5
It meant to say tapped, I did clean out all the grooves, I did use some coolant to rub around the seals, hmm. Ok. I mean it’s not a huge leak, but since those o-rings are new I do want to get them seated correctly.
Did you push the little short nipple into the hole first or into the bottom of the bypass pipe first? I'm not positive on the depth of the hole, but I placed mine in the hole first in order to confirm the lower O-ring was in and seated before I pushed on the bypass pipe. There is still a fair bit of movement of the bypass pipe on the nipple before you bolt down the bypass pipe.
- Thread starter
- #7
I placed the inner tube into the hole, tapped it down with a socket until it seated, the put the L shaped tube on and tapped on it until it was low enough to bolt into the block. When I first ran it there was no leak, idk when it started there, just noticed coolant leaking a couple days ago
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- #8
Well went to start the truck and pull it into the bay here at work and now looks like coolant on top of the water pump, definitely looks like the bottom seal is the issue but now the coolant on top of the water pump threw me for a look,
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- #9
Ok. Well the water pump bolt was a lil loose, turned it a bit another 3/4 of a turn. No seeping as of yet. Will report back, ugh, I am doing the fan clutch here in about a week can’t wait to torque down all those bolts, I still have a oil leak coming from the bolt behind the water pump pulley
How you all doing? I'm about to do this repair myself. I first just ordered all 3 o-rings but now changed my mind and just ordered the new pipe and sleeve that goes inside the long bypass pipe. My question is, when I took the old one off, I noticed whoever did this to begin with, added their own gasket making material that sat inside the pipe where the sleeve presses into it. Here's some pics. My concern is if I don't add some gasket maker it may leak and if I do, it will be a potential cause of debris that eventually clogs the radiator or heater core and I've already had to pay for a heater core and radiator replacement and that was $$$ to tear dash out.
So do you guys think I should just go with what's provided (O-rings) or add gasket maker?
Buy a new bypass pipe and the short nipple.
Then coat everything with antifreeze before you install it.
Make sure the inside of the top of the thermostat housing has been cleaned well with no scratches, gouges, or cracks.
The PO obviously went cheap and dirty to make a fix or it was a field fix that became permenent.
Do it the right way.
Yup, I agree. Doin it the right way. Everything is brand new this time. Thanks for the reply!
Be aware that it's going to feel a little loose / sloppy when it goes back together. Coat the o-rings (don't use vaseline or grease) with anti freeze for lubrication. After it heat cycles a couple times, any leaking or weeping should stop.
Yeah, I noticed it's a little loose, even the old one, I almost want to put some RTV at the bottom of the new pipe but not on the inside. Just something to seal it from even leaking modestly. But if I do that, I'll still cycle it like you said first so I can see if everything is seated properly. Yay or nay on RTV at the bottom of pipe where it sits on housing?
Nay.
Plus the silicone is not a good thing to have floating in the cooling system where it could come loose and clog up something.
Let the O-Rings do their job. I used scotch brite on the inside of that housing to clean it up. I pushed the scotch brite in with a flat screwdriver, being careful to not cut through and scar the inside.
Will do, thank you!