Sloppy steering

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Joined
Dec 13, 2017
Threads
3
Messages
11
Location
Ohio, United States
So I’ve got a 96 80 series and I’m trying to resolve some steering slop/ body role.

Vehicle info I have a front ARB bumper with winch, rear drawers and a roof rack. Sitting on 35s with the OME 2.5 inch lift. Will soon have a rear bumper/tire carrier.
Use case: mild off road, lots of distance trips as I live in the Midwest.

Issues
I have some play in the steering wheel but it doesn’t seem too excessive, think any 90s early 2k pickup truck. But at highways speeds the combination of that slop, and body role starts to feel pretty sketchy.
It feels kinda like the front outside wheel is diving in these turns. If I’m really gentle going into the turn it’s not bad, but when you need to turn with any real urgency at speeds above 50 it’ll make you pucker lol
This issue started after installing the suspension and bumper (they went on together allong with the tires)

Ive checked the front end, I’ve had others check the front end, everything seems tight. decent ball joints, front axle was rebuilt a year ago. I don’t see any frame cracks around the steering box or any of the suspension mounts.

I’m using caster correction bushings, I believe I’m still a -2 or -3 on caster. I do have sway bars connected, but no sway bar drops (kit didn’t include them)

This leads me to the big question, is this an OME suspension issue? Or is this a I didn’t install it correctly issue?
I’ve been looking at going to Dobinsons flexi suspension but I don’t wanna spend that kinda money and realize I didn’t actually fix the problem.
 
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I’m using caster correction bushings, I believe I’m still a -2 or -3 on caster. I don’t have sway bars connected, but no sway bar drops (kit didn’t include them)

I believe that is your issue, get the front and rear sway bar drop brackets, connect them and report back.
 
I’m using caster correction bushings, I believe I’m still a -2 or -3 on caster. I don’t have sway bars connected, but no sway bar drops (kit didn’t include them)

I believe that is your issue, get the front and rear sway bar drop brackets, connect them and report back.
Ooo autocorrect got me there, I don’t have drops, but they are connected, I’ll edit the post.

I can definitely try the drops, do you still think that’s the issue?
 
Sway bar extensions or longer end links are essential for lifted vehicles (typically 2-4"+) to correct the sway bar angle, preventing it from binding or contacting other components. By restoring the factory geometry, they improve handling, reduce body roll, and enhance articulation. Options include direct threaded extensions, new longer end links, or drop brackets

I would definitely get extended end links for your application.
 
Sway bar extensions or longer end links are essential for lifted vehicles (typically 2-4"+) to correct the sway bar angle, preventing it from binding or contacting other components. By restoring the factory geometry, they improve handling, reduce body roll, and enhance articulation. Options include direct threaded extensions, new longer end links, or drop brackets

I would definitely get extended end links for your application.
Awesome, I’ll get those ordered and give it a try!
Thank you!!
 
Def need to fix the castor, there many different ways to do it, some are better then others. But also need to check all the steering linkage. have somebody move the steering wheel back and forth where the free play is look for anything where only one part is moving and not the other including the steering box itself. not sure how many miles you have.
 
Get @DeltaVS 3” Radius Arms. Bushing are bush league patch. You’ll go from feeling like you’re walking a pack of puppies through a park full of squirrels to driving it off the dealership parking lot in 1996.
 
Get @DeltaVS 3” Radius Arms. Bushing are bush league patch. You’ll go from feeling like you’re walking a pack of puppies through a park full of squirrels to driving it off the dealership parking lot in 1996.
This is super good to hear! I’ve been toying with going that route for a while now!
 
This is super good to hear! I’ve been toying with going that route for a while now!
It’s not easy money you spend, but the dollar-to-total enjoyment factor is 100X. I daily my 97 and until I got these, and the Delta Extended Drop Brackets, Delta Rear Panhard drop bracket, and Slee extend rear link brackets, It always felt like a janky DIY hack job of the suspension. It fought it down the roads and any offsets in the paving would send the vehicle going different directions.
 
Get @DeltaVS 3” Radius Arms. Bushing are bush league patch. You’ll go from feeling like you’re walking a pack of puppies through a park full of squirrels to driving it off the dealership parking lot in 1996.
This is super good to hear! I’ve been toying with going that route for a while now

Idk why this posted 2x
 
It’s not easy money you spend, but the dollar-to-total enjoyment factor is 100X. I daily my 97 and until I got these, and the Delta Extended Drop Brackets, Delta Rear Panhard drop bracket, and Slee extend rear link brackets, It always felt like a janky DIY hack job of the suspension. It fought it down the roads and any offsets in the paving would send the vehicle going different directions.
That’s exactly my experience! Man I’m glad that’s the fix!
 
Everyone has covered a lot that could be the issue, but what about your steering box? You can actually adjust the steering box, but if the box is old and worn out I would suggest buying one from Red Head or buying a new one from Toyota. Yes they are expensive but buy once cry once.
 
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