Slee slider install question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hey, thanks for the feedback! We are planning to uprev the instructions eventually and include a bit more detail. The number and location of threaded holes moves around year to year. Truck looks great!

The drill bit we sell along with the rivnut tool is a very high quality HSS 1/2" shank bit. I want to say it's made by precision twist. I have at least 50 holes on the one in my tool box and it's still going strong. The holes will kill a mediocre drill pretty quickly

Were happy to help by email or phone, or live in person.

Cheers!
 
How long in hours does it take to install the SLEE sliders? .. Tryingto plan my install.
 
How long in hours does it take to install the SLEE sliders? .. Tryingto plan my install.

Have you got a helper?
A well stocked shop with plenty of oddball stuff like lumber scraps, lineup bars, etc, etc. ????

What takes me ~2hrs with a chainfall & boom in my workspace could be longer without, or shorter if you have a buddy to hold the other end while getting it all started.

-Kinda the reality of how it goes IMO.
 
Have you got a helper?
A well stocked shop with plenty of oddball stuff like lumber scraps, lineup bars, etc, etc. ????

What takes me ~2hrs with a chainfall & boom in my workspace could be longer without, or shorter if you have a buddy to hold the other end while getting it all started.

-Kinda the reality of how it goes IMO.


Thanks.
 
You should be able to knock it out in 6-8 hours - 3-4 per side. This assumes you don't have a lift but do have all the required tools & hardware and a modicum of mechanical skill. I installed mine by myself with creative use of a floor jack.
 
I'm appreciative of the timeliness of this thread- I received my Slee sliders last week and just got through the first round of "which holes must I drill". I've been using incrementally larger bits as I go and that is working well. Your photos above really helped. I also liked the tip of using the 90-deg die grinder for some of the more difficult to reach holes. I am holding my breath for the popsicle nut mount on the drivers side. Good tips in this thread. I'll share any of my own experiences as I go.

From a bit of research, torque's that I've found so far-
54 Nm for the front body mount
32 Nm hydraulic line valve to frame
29 Nm hydraulic line clip to frame
13 Nm for the parking brake cable clips.

I might be missing it, but what torque settings are appropriate for the Slee provided M8 hardware and rivnuts? I gave Slee a call but they are closed Sat.
 
Tighten the s*** out of it but don't strip them.....

Edit - in my experience rivnuts aren't the most robust nut in the world. A grade 8.8 torque would be 30NM and a grade 10.9 would be 40NM. I would rely on my experience to tighten them without overdoing it and stripping the rivnuts.
 
Hooray, Sliders are all in and I think turned out really well.

Here's a quick summary of the install. I'd guess the total time to install was about 6 hours spread across a couple of days.

It should have gone faster but when I sandwiched the driver side slider between the frame and the KDSS hydraulic lines the holes between the valves and the frame offset by about 1/8" which made aligning and reinserting the bolts more difficult. I ended up putting a M8 bolt in one of the frame holes to gently lever the valve and clips into the proper alignment. It's the smallest things that sometimes take the longest time.

I didn't end up drilling (or die grinding) the upper holes- just not enough room. I did use the die grinder to clean up the holes a bit and that worked great.

The Popsicle nut was not too bad, I had been worried about that. Passenger was trivial and I probably got lucky on the driver side. It is somewhat of a blind action because the monster washer needs to fit behind the hydraulic lines and sits flush next to the frame making it difficult to see the orientation of the nut. I ended up using a metric hex socket in the allen head to give more surface to grab by my fingers and to help provide more stable rotation as I adjusted the popsicle with my left hand. With the frame, hydraulic lines, big bolt it's just not a lot of room.

1992837




I ended up using 7 rivnuts on the passenger side, shown in yellow. The red markers where I could simply not get enough room with the tools I had to add a rivnut. Plus on the passenger side you get 2 more threaded connections from the parking brake mount and 2 from the fuel tank shield mount (green). The orange marker is where the allen bolt/popsicle nut reinforce.
1992840



I used 9 rivnuts on the driver side, which of course I started to photo but must have gotten distracted, I don't have a rivnut only photo of the driver's side.

But here are a few pictures showing the final results on the driver side.

The Allen head bolt was tricky on the driver side, just not a lot of room as you can see. The allen head bolt and washer must fit behind the hydraulic lines (top). The M8 bolt on the bottom is connected to a rivnut and there is another to the right of the support that you can't see in this photo.

Two riv nut holes on the driver side, front. Because of the hydraulic lines I could not drill any of the higher holes. So passenger side gets an extra connection on the top. There is a bolted in bracket securing these hydraulic lines that is hiding up and behind the frame, you can see it in the photo below. It's tough to get to with a regular socket. I ended up using an universal socket. I suspect a low profile socket (or possibly a box wrench) would work as well but it's a tough to get leverage in the space for sure.


1992842




These are the hydraulic valves that the instructions say to remove the bolts. On mine, with the slider in place the hydraulic lines shifted to the right about 1/8" which made putting the bolts back into securing the valves more difficult. Taking out the 4 hydrauilic line bolts does make it easier to shift this system away from the frame to squeeze in the slider but I might have only loosened them instead of fully removing them to make the re connection easier. The lines are rigid and there isn't a lot of room to work with. I ended up using a lever to gently nudge the valves back into place and then bolted them back.

The yellow markers are rivnuts, the green is a hydraulic line clip.

1992851



Here are the locations of the rivnuts (yellow) and reused fastener locations on the driver side. There is one parking brake connection not shown.

1992859



All in all, a fun project. Great quality from Slee.
 

I know this is a dumb question, but those are your KDSS valves right? 16+ LC I assume? I went to inspect my KDSS valves when I got my 16 last year and noticed it appears they updated the setup which is much better from a rust perspective.
 
I skipped the same rivnuts you did, for the same reason. I bounced my rig off a a couple rocks in Moab a few weeks ago and the sliders held up fine.
 
Yes it is a 16 LC. But those are not the notorious KDSS valves that you must crack when you are doing work on the sway bars (e.g., suspension projects) Those are located further behind the truck on the inside of the frame. Mine are the older style allen heads... understand on later models they went to regular bolt heads. Mine have surface rust but w/ some kroil and made sure the head was cleaned out I was able to open them without issue. I just picked up some LKPS 3 Premier Rust Inhibitor per a recommendation from this site and will apply liberally.
 
I think they maybe proportioning valves for the brakes? The only kdss valves I've seen are the ones on the driver side behind the passenger door underneath on the frame rail, with a shield around them. I'm not sure if there are more though?
 
Those valves are actually also a part of the KDSS system, you can see them in the diagram below along with the front and rear KDSS piston.

1993044



1993052


The KDSS shutter valves that you need to open (no more than 3 turns!) when you have a lean, work on your sway bar, etc... are located a bit further back on the other side of the frame behind a shield. Here's a photo of mine that you can see in relation to the muffler, frame, and slider.

1993040


KDSS is a crazy system that I want to learn more about but I sure have a better appreciation of it after the suspension upgrade I just did!
 
Interesting.

I don't remember anywhere in the instructions saying the KDSS shield needed to be removed, just the fuel tank skid plate.
I loosed them when installing my lift, but never removed the shield.
 
Yes, you are correct, the shield over the kdss shutter valves does not need to be removed. There are oblong cutouts in the shield that you can insert your wrench to loosen the valves a bit.
 
Yes, you are correct, the shield over the kdss shutter valves does not need to be removed. There are oblong cutouts in the shield that you can insert your wrench to loosen the valves a bit.


I meant .. I didn't see anywhere in the SLEE instructions that the KDSS shield needed to be removed. Maybe just removed for easier access to drill that hole near it? I have the sliders in my garage waiting for me and a friend to install them.
Looks like a lot of drilling...
 
I may be misunderstanding your question. Apologies if I am, but-

There are 2 sets of valves that we're talking about (I think)...

The first set are the two stabilizer valves on the outside of the frame. These are the valves connected to rigid lines that Slee recommends you unbolt from the frame so that you have enough play in the rigid lines to slip the sliders between the rigid lines and the frame. These are not the "KDSS valves" that people talk about rusting over or needing to open when doing work on the KDSS/hydraulic sway bar (like with a suspension install).

The second set of valves are the shutter valves that most people do refer to as simply the "kdss valves". These are further towards the rear of the truck, inside the frame rail and surrounded by a shield. When you install suspension you need to crack these open a bit or else you may have sway bar/kdss issues. However, you don't need to mess with these at all when you simply are installing the slee sliders.

Regarding the holes... fortunately you do not need to drill any new holes. For the 15 holes that I needed to drill it was simply expanding the existing holes in the frame to 17/32" which fits the M8 rivnut that slee provides. There were a few other mounting holes that I wish I could have secured but access was definitely a problem. As others have said, I do recommend having 2 bits on hand and drill at a slower speed.

Hope this helps clarify some things, sorry if I was unclear in my earlier posts.

Good luck on your install! It really isn't too bad especially with some of the information that others have shared on this site.

Jeff
 
Back
Top Bottom