Sedole's 2011 LX

[sedole]

About 1,000 miles into these 6100s and I'm loving them through and through. They handle everything I’ve thrown at them like they’re made for the LX. Including a full load (~1,200 lbs including myself) up and down the mountains phenomenally as well.

The one thing I do need to address is shock travel. There’s not a great place to test travel nearby but I did get the rear a little flexed using a curb and my short ramps. With about 2.75” left to the rear bumps, there’s about 3” of shock shaft left. Assuming the rear bumps compress a bit (let’s overestimate and say an inch) under max suspension compression, that’s definitely going to bottom out the shocks. Perry parts has an extended rear bump that should solve that nicely. On the droop end, I’ll definitely need to get longer brake lines and rear diff breather hose.

Rear swaybar also gets pretty close to the shock body at droop. Spaced the endlinks down about 3/16" with some large washers to hopefully add just a little more clearance. Also took out the 15mm coil spring spacer I previously had on the driver rear while I was messing around in there. Sits more level without now.

 

[CharlieChops]

Snagged a early tundra trd pro skid plate for cheap (early ones had no letters) which fits with minimal mods. Also absolutely scored on a set of 4 tundra TRD pro wheels with 35" nitto ridge grapplers for a whopping $600! Decided to do some cutting, bashing, and heat molding to run the 35s for a few weeks for s***s and giggles then turned around and sold them for $350. 4 TRD wheels for $250 is absolutely wild. It's also a good trial run for when I eventually upsize tires again. I think I'm going to do either 285/70/18 or 295/70/18, I'm undecided. In either case, 35s were stupid easy to fit. Or I'm just not afraid to hammer some metal and cut some plastic lol.

Got some LC roof rails as well. I don't think I'd ever use a full rack enough to justify the MPG hit...though they do look good... And trimmed the engine bay heat shields because I'm already annoyed with having to take them off the 3 times I've aired up so far lol.

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What year (or gen) are those tundra skid plates from?

 

[sedole]

What year (or gen) are those tundra skid plates from?

2nd gen after the refresh, I'm not sure of the years. Most have the big TRD letters, but I recalled reading somewhere that the early years didn't have the letters. Found it on ebay iirc.

 

[sedole]

Perry Parts bumps are in. They are about 1.5" taller than the stock ones. Once they're fully compressed that should leave me with .5-.75" shock shaft left at full compression. Slightly harder install than I was expecting. The holes of the bumps had the bolts a bit cross-eyed which made getting the bolds threaded a bit of a challenge. Was able to get them both in place after a bit of struggling. Not complaining too much though. Seem like a nicely made product. Excited to test them out.

Also decided to switch to valvoline restore and protect oil with my most recent oil change. Added some liqui moly MoS2 as well. Only been several hundred miles, but I am already noticing a significant reduction in the lifter tick. Plan to do a couple short intervals after this with restore and protect to see if it can quiet it down more.

 

[sedole]

New shoes! 35x11.5r18 load range C Wildpeak AT4Ws. The KO2s had plenty of life left but were such a pain to balance and keep balanced that when I lost some wheel weights on 2 corners recently I decided to call it quits on them instead of bring it in half a dozen times to try and rebalance. I’ve had my eyes on this size of wildpeaks since their release. Figured saving 5 lbs per corner unsprung weight might be nice and that the slightly narrower size might solve some of the front sway bar rub. Also always wanted to move down from a load range E tire to something softer.

Well it’s a great improvement all around! The ride is significantly more plush, rubs less up front (though not as much less as I’d thought-and will need to do more massaging for the rear), and maybe placebo but I do feel some slight improvements when taking off from a stop and hard braking. Other benefits are these are a good bit quieter than the KO2s. Not silent like some claim, but definitely much quieter and the noise they make is at a less annoying pitch than other all terrains I’ve had.

Only downside I've noticed thus far is they definitely don’t look as meaty on the rig. But I think I can get over it in time lol. Unmounted they are about 3/4” narrower overall (~1” narrower tread pattern) and about 1/2” taller than the 35x12.5 ko2. Visually I’d say they’re just a touch narrower than the 295/70/18 Wildpeak AT3Ws I used to have.

 

[sedole]

Bumped up the front springs from the 4th to the 5th perch on the 6112s. A friend commented that the front was looking low and sure enough the bilstein springs have sagged about 3/8” since they were installed about 2 years ago. Also reinstalled the 15mm coil spring spacer in the rear except on the passenger side now which has been sitting lower since the HD springs went in. While I was in there I also carefully bent the rear brake lines and diff breather brackets. I was able to gain just enough slack for the increased down travel of the 6100s.

This also gave me a chance to try out the gyraline at home alignment tool I bought. It definitely took some conceptual figuring out for the cam movements to adjust caster but once I got that it was easy to dial things in. Was able to bring my caster down to 3 degrees both sides, camber to -0.3 both sides, and slight toe out at -0.05 degree each side. Drastically better driving alignment than anything I’ve gotten in the last few years. Hard to find a local place that would take the time to really fine tune an alignment like this. An added benefit of doing it at home was I wanted to tweak caster to see if I could lessen the rub on the front swaybar. Pleased to say I completely eliminated it. Caster was like 4.7 degrees or something at my last alignment, so bringing it back down definitely helped. And still no body mount rub either. I had also previously taken an angle grinder with flappy disc to the rub point on the swaybar when I had the 35x12.5s, so results may vary with alignment alone. Overall, big fan of the gyraline. Very much worth it.

Still loving the 6100s and the 35x11.5 wildpeaks.

 

[sedole]

Lower ball joints were starting to kick the can so swapped out the lower arms for new OEM. Upon inspection with the old arms out, the old bushings were torn too. Fortunately the bolts were not seized which made for a pretty quick job. Also swapped out the outer tie rod ends for new OEM. Driverside was absolutely cooked. Used the gyraline again to realign everything afterwards. Much easier now that I’ve got the hang of it. New parts really tightened up the front end.

And finally got around to tidying up my headlights. Did it the proper way. Wetsand and some 2K clear. Looks mint from about 5 feet away. Any closer and you can definitely tell I painted it outside lol. But I’m pretty happy with the results. They weren't horrible before, but you can see the slight yellow crust they used to have in the previous post.

While under the truck discovered the valley plate leak rearing its head. I’ll have to figure out a time to take care of that..

 

[WookieMonst3r]

Question: Reading through your thread and i'm looking to go with the 6100's on my LX and delete my AHC system. As a sanity check, Is this all I need? I'm targeting around a 2" lift.

2023+ Sequoia Rear Shocks:

Bilstein B8 6100 - Suspension Shock Absorber (24-332958)

60mm Monotube Shock Absorber

www.4wheelparts.com

B8 6112 Front suspension kit:

Bilstein B8 6112 - Suspension Kit (47-311145)

Front Suspension Kit

www.4wheelparts.com

Rear Springs:

Bilstein B12 (Special) - Coil Spring Set (53-292018)

Rear Suspension Kit

www.4wheelparts.com

upper control arms:

Upper Control Arms UCA0001

Upper Control Arms

store.arbusa.com

Looks like i need a rear sway bar.

Am i missing anything, my understanding reading through the thread is you ended up not needing the extended links anymore with the 6100 rear shocks? Appreciate your time and response, hoping to learn from your experience with this set up, really like my bilstein's on my 100 series looking at going this route on 200.

 

[sedole]

Question: Reading through your thread and i'm looking to go with the 6100's on my LX and delete my AHC system. As a sanity check, Is this all I need? I'm targeting around a 2" lift.

Am i missing anything, my understanding reading through the thread is you ended up not needing the extended links anymore with the 6100 rear shocks? Appreciate your time and response, hoping to learn from your experience with this set up, really like my bilstein's on my 100 series looking at going this route on 200.

Just about exactly what I used except I ultimately went with the HD spring offering from Bilstein instead 53-297686. If you are only doing a 2" lift up front you don't need the UCAs and the standard rear spring should be just fine. If you do more lift up front or regularly have gear/rear passengers you may want the HD rear spring instead. Don't necessarily need a different rear sway bar either, tho with a lot of weight in the rear you might wish for one. With the stock bar it should clear the 6100s just fine. With my thicker rear bar I just had to space the stock links down like 1/4" with some thick washers.

You'll also need extended rear bump stops to limit uptravel by a little and will need to either bend brackets to give more slack for rear brake lines and breather hose or get extended options for both those.

I see you're in the springs. If you're ever up around Parker you're welcome to give my rig a test drive to make sure it's what you're after.

 

[TeCKis300]

Question: Reading through your thread and i'm looking to go with the 6100's on my LX and delete my AHC system. As a sanity check, Is this all I need? I'm targeting around a 2" lift.

2023+ Sequoia Rear Shocks:

Bilstein B8 6100 - Suspension Shock Absorber (24-332958)

60mm Monotube Shock Absorber

www.4wheelparts.com

B8 6112 Front suspension kit:

Bilstein B8 6112 - Suspension Kit (47-311145)

Front Suspension Kit

www.4wheelparts.com

Rear Springs:

Bilstein B12 (Special) - Coil Spring Set (53-292018)

Rear Suspension Kit

www.4wheelparts.com

upper control arms:

Upper Control Arms UCA0001

Upper Control Arms

store.arbusa.com

Looks like i need a rear sway bar.

Am i missing anything, my understanding reading through the thread is you ended up not needing the extended links anymore with the 6100 rear shocks? Appreciate your time and response, hoping to learn from your experience with this set up, really like my bilstein's on my 100 series looking at going this route on 200.

Just sanity checking why you're looking to delete AHC. There are good reasons and not so good reasons. 6100s are fine shocks but it's arguably a downgrade and introduces a host of compromises.

 

[WookieMonst3r]

Just about exactly what I used except I ultimately went with the HD spring offering from Bilstein instead 53-297686. If you are only doing a 2" lift up front you don't need the UCAs and the standard rear spring should be just fine. If you do more lift up front or regularly have gear/rear passengers you may want the HD rear spring instead. Don't necessarily need a different rear sway bar either, tho with a lot of weight in the rear you might wish for one. With the stock bar it should clear the 6100s just fine. With my thicker rear bar I just had to space the stock links down like 1/4" with some thick washers.

You'll also need extended rear bump stops to limit uptravel by a little and will need to either bend brackets to give more slack for rear brake lines and breather hose or get extended options for both those.

I see you're in the springs. If you're ever up around Parker you're welcome to give my rig a test drive to make sure it's what you're after.

I don't expect ill be carrying any heavy weights in the back regularly enough to need HD rear springs. Maybe once a year I might tow a small trailer or carry mulch/sand or something, otherwise its just me and my dog. Does the HD springs ride any different without the weight? That would be my concern.

Maybe i read conflicting information, but seemed like you couldn't get a good alignment with a 2" lift without replacing UCA's?

https://perryparts.com/products/ab5r-rear-bump-stop?variant=51102040752441

Are these the bump stops you used?

My only concern with the stock rear sway bars as i'm sure you aware driving up on the mountain roads can be curvy, don't want it to be too horrible lol, don't need it to handle like a sports car and don't expect it to handle like AHC but I also don't want to be holding on for dear life.

 

[Boston Mangler]

I don't expect ill be carrying any heavy weights in the back regularly enough to need HD rear springs. Maybe once a year I might tow a small trailer or carry mulch/sand or something, otherwise its just me and my dog. Does the HD springs ride any different without the weight? That would be my concern.

Maybe i read conflicting information, but seemed like you couldn't get a good alignment with a 2" lift without replacing UCA's?

https://perryparts.com/products/ab5r-rear-bump-stop?variant=51102040752441

Are these the bump stops you used?

My only concern with the stock rear sway bars as i'm sure you aware driving up on the mountain roads can be curvy, don't want it to be too horrible lol, don't need it to handle like a sports car and don't expect it to handle like AHC but I also don't want to be holding on for dear life.

I have a KDSS LC Variant with the same shocks

I did 3rd clip for 1.75” and got alignment JUST in spec with factory UCAs

For rear springs, I started out with the standard Bilsteins and they were ok.

Once I added just drawers and minimal tools and camp gear for 1, they sagged 1”

I went with OME 2721 rear springs and it’s perfect for me

Usually solo and minimal crap packed

 

[sedole]

I don't expect ill be carrying any heavy weights in the back regularly enough to need HD rear springs. Maybe once a year I might tow a small trailer or carry mulch/sand or something, otherwise its just me and my dog. Does the HD springs ride any different without the weight? That would be my concern.

Maybe i read conflicting information, but seemed like you couldn't get a good alignment with a 2" lift without replacing UCA's?

https://perryparts.com/products/ab5r-rear-bump-stop?variant=51102040752441

Are these the bump stops you used?

My only concern with the stock rear sway bars as i'm sure you aware driving up on the mountain roads can be curvy, don't want it to be too horrible lol, don't need it to handle like a sports car and don't expect it to handle like AHC but I also don't want to be holding on for dear life.

Standard bilstein rear springs should be plenty then, especially if you've deleted 3rd row and will be deleting residual AHC hardware.

I think I set mine to get ~2.2" initially. Or whatever the 4th perch gets. Alignment was ok, but I wish I could've squeezed out a little more caster. When I added the UCAs it was at the limits for being able to get camber back in spec but caster was much improved. So with less lift it really might not be needed.

Yup, those are the same bumps I used.

Yeah it'd be ok without load for sure but if you're going up/down the mountains often you'll probably want a stiffer rear sway bar. Could always try it for a while first. I never tried 6100s with the AHC sway bar so it might be ok.