Safety Seal VS Monkey Grip

[rusty_tlc]

Not bad. But since they are selling their neato tool, they make the other methods of removing the tire seem much more complicated than they really are.

Their tool does look handy though. I might have to make one of those.


Mark...

It did look pretty easy to fab one of those up. Do you think 1/4" would be stout enough?

Sez the guy with a bunch of 1/4" plate.

 

[george_tlc]

1/4" should be fine - looks about what used in the pics. Besides, if it bends it's just an excuse to go BIGGER next time

I'll put in my 2c about driving over tyres to break beads - been there and tried that and it can be a right waste of time. In my case with split rims, it's easy for some moisture/rust to form right at the bead to rim junction and breaking the bead can appear nearly impossible with the drive over technique.

Once you do break the bead and remove the tyre, a steel brush (even a file) is a good thing to run along the rim to clean out debris/rust etc. For split rims you definitely want rust rings (rubber tube liner) installed to prevent the tube from 'sticking' to the rim and ripping or getting damaged from rust/debris on the rim surface.

In the case of tyre repairs in the field, practice makes perfect and practice if possible in the driveway rather than after multiple punctures in the field.

Last trip to the oz bush a couple or so years ago we had 5 flats (3 in one short stretch) on 1 vehicle and 4 (maybe it was 5 too) on a 2nd vehicle - 2 week trip. None on the 3rd - fortunately mine, but then I was running 8 ply crossply 7.50R16 while they others had radial wide tyres. You get a lot of repair practice when that happens - and time to re-hone skills

george.

 

[Guy Boardman]

Here you go, pretty decent write up of most of the steps.

http://www.beadbreaker.co.za/repairing_a_tubeless_tyre.htm

cheers,
george.

Well thank you George. Pretty decent of you commenting so positively on the write up. Which steps are in your opinion not covered adequately?

Author of the article and manufacturer of the Bead Breaker.

 

[Guy Boardman]

It did look pretty easy to fab one of those up. Do you think 1/4" would be stout enough?

Sez the guy with a bunch of 1/4" plate.

I would suggest that you use a little thicker plate Rusty. I use 10mm thick plate for the ones that I manufacture. You do'nt want that plate so thin that it goes trough the sidewall, now do you?

But why don't you try George Carousos at Extreme Outback Products. He will sell you one. http://www.extremeoutback.com/

 

[rusty_tlc]

I would suggest that you use a little thicker plate Rusty. I use 10mm thick plate for the ones that I manufacture. You do'nt want that plate so thin that it goes trough the sidewall, now do you?

But why don't you try George Carousos at Extreme Outback Products. He will sell you one. ExtremeOutback.com

Since I have a pile of 1/4" steel plate around and not such a large big pile of cash around maybe I could just double up the steel?

I'm thinking of not getting a spare for the FJ40 and just taking a tube instead, I will be running 40" TSL Swampers.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I would suggest that you use a little thicker plate Rusty. I use 10mm thick plate for the ones that I manufacture. You do'nt want that plate so thin that it goes trough the sidewall, now do you?

But why don't you try George Carousos at Extreme Outback Products. He will sell you one. ExtremeOutback.com

Guy-A clever idea. I was just in Vacaville yesterday, and did not know that shop was there!

I've popped beads with the hi-lift method, it works pretty well, but your simple tool is good idea, and I'll have to buy one just to give you credit for it.

 

[Guy Boardman]

I've popped beads with the hi-lift method, it works pretty well, but your simple tool is good idea, and I'll have to buy one just to give you credit for it.

Thanks Cruiserdrew!

The Hi-Lift jack method is certainly effective, but there are certain times that it will not work, for instance when you have shredded your sidewall.

In South Africa, many of our overland travellers (What you guys seem to call Expedition type people) take along a spare wheel - with a tyre and a spare tyre with no rim on the roof rack, basically to save weight.

If a tyre is so badly punctured or as can often happen destroyed, then you would fit the spare tyre after removing the shredded tyre.

The Hi-Lift Jack on its own is going to cause a lot of frustration if the tyre sidewall/carcass has been destroyed.

Some guys do carry two full spare wheels, but it's horses for courses.

Someone also mentioned that I might have overplayed the effort required by the other Bead Breakers on the market to de-bead a tyre, these being the Tyre-plier and the R&R Bead Breaker. Well I have tried them both and yes: I do believe in my product.

I must say that there is nothing to beat the size, cost, efficiency and efectiveness of the Bead Buster and it works work on even the most stubborn tyres and those with shredded sidewalls.

Anyway get one from EOP, give it a bash. It works. BTW it took second prize after Warns Power Winch at the SEMA show last year. That should be endorsement enough.

 

[Doug the Dog]

you got to be kidding safety Seal is the only one to use have you seen their web site with videos SAFETY SEAL - Tire Repair Products Dont buy cheap crap use Safety Seal

 

[rusty_tlc]

Holy Thread resurrection Batman!!!!

 

[Mace]

lol,
BTW, I picked up a thread insertion tool from Pep Boys recently. It's a lot like the 4 ended schrader valve tools but has a long cable on it as well.

No clue how well it works yet, but it is novel to say the least

Cable Stem Tool | Valve Stem Repair Tools | VA6015

 

[rusty_tlc]

I saw this tool a while back and still need to buy one



LINK ---->AME QVC Quick Valve Change Tool (AM-51025): All Tire Supply Company

 

[rusty_tlc]

Since 2007 when I started this thread I have plugged a number of tires, broken the bead on my truck tires a half dozen times with a Hi-Lift, re- seated the same tires with a ratchet strap and my house compressor, and watched someone seat a tire with brake fluid.

BTW the plugs I did back in 07 are still holding, crappy Monkey Grip and all.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

and watched someone seat a tire with brake fluid.

Remember on Dusy when we did this? I still think about that and laugh. I thought someone would be killed by tire shrapnel, but everyone lived to tell the tale. That was Dylan's tire the day before he rolled his truck.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Remember on Dusy when we did this? I still think about that and laugh. I thought someone would be killed by tire shrapnel, but everyone lived to tell the tale. That was Dylan's tire the day before he rolled his truck.

That's the time I was thinking of, was it Dylans tire or Ricks? IIRC it was a busted valve stem, if we had that slick tool from my post above we wouldn't have had to dismount the tire.

 

[Bogo]

*scratches head* Why is the fancy tool needed? I've pushed them in with just a dulled flat bladed screwdriver with some tire lube. Pull out the old valve stem with a vice grips. Coat the base of the new valve stem with tire bead sealant/lubricant. Push the valve stem base in at about a 45 degree angle and get the first part of the inside lip in. Then use the screwdriver blade to work the rest of the lip in.

Another method: Break the tire bead on the valve stem side only. Have somebody stand on the tire to press the side of the tire past the valve stem. Replace valve stem. Seat the tire bead like normal.

That "cable valve stem tool" is for inner tubes. Put one side of the tire on the wheel. Put the inner tube in place inside the tire. Run the cap head and cable through the valve stem hole and attach the cap to the valve stem of the inner tube. Put the second bead of the tire on the wheel rim. Now pull on the T handle to pull the valve stem out the valve stem hole.

 

[Rallyroo]

It's funny. I have a Safety Seal Kit intended for the Cruiser when I head out in the backcountry, yet I have never used the kit on it. *knock on wood*

Instead I have used the Safety Seal Kit to plug tires on my car where I get flats in the city.