Rusty 100

[BigBlackLexus]

Both of my manifolds are bad and the labor, by the book, is 13 hours. Mine is rusty but I found a guy that will do it. If it goes too long with an exhaust leak, it can run rich and burn out the cats(so I was told). That being said, as I climbed altitude today my CE light went off. So I’m a little dumbfounded. I def have a leak in the manifolds, as it’s very audible especially under acceleration. A very clackety sound. I think I may see if the cats are still coding after I get new manifolds.

 

[brownfox]

You going Doug thorley as the replacement?

 

[BigBlackLexus]

I am now. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[JWick]

I am now. Thanks for the suggestion.

Make sure you use OEM gaskets, not the ones provided with the DT headers.

 

[brownfox]

Let’s see pics of the rusted out headers too.

 

[athensrep]

Here’s a proven rust-killing method that works and is easy; degrease anything that needs it, buy a gallon of phosphoric Acid from Home Depot (garage floor etch), get a cheap pump sprayer, douse the underside liberally and get it inside the frame rails. After its dry and nice and powdery white, spray or brush it with Coroseal. That will keep you from getting rustier for a long time. It works really, really well and cheaper than Por 15.

 

[BigBlackLexus]

Sounds like a good idea. Are you guys using a lift to do this?

 

[BEG]

As a Northeast 100 owner, that amount of rust doesn't scare me, so long as the price was right. I always keep cans of Rustoleum rust reformer, cosmoline, PB Blaster, wood bleach and anti-seize handy. Also a torch, impact tools and a tap and die kit. Whenever I work in an area under the car, I brush off the loose rust and hit as much as I can with rust reformer. Then I seal it with cosmoline. I factor in buying new hardware for just about every job and chase any captured threads. I also have a set of reverse drill bits, extractors etc. and some impact taps in case I need to drill out a larger hole and make some new threads. You definitely have to budget more time for jobs when dealing with rust but it's not insurmountable.

 

[Alibaster]

Yeah, I can't imagine working on a car and not getting rust in my eyes.

 

[BigBlackLexus]

As a Northeast 100 owner, that amount of rust doesn't scare me, so long as the price was right. I always keep cans of Rustoleum rust reformer, cosmoline, PB Blaster, wood bleach and anti-seize handy. Also a torch, impact tools and a tap and die kit. Whenever I work in an area under the car, I brush off the loose rust and hit as much as I can with rust reformer. Then I seal it with cosmoline. I factor in buying new hardware for just about every job and chase any captured threads. I also have a set of reverse drill bits, extractors etc. and some impact taps in case I need to drill out a larger hole and make some new threads. You definitely have to budget more time for jobs when dealing with rust but it's not insurmountable.

I wish you were my neighbor! I was just going to use a drill and wire brush to get as much off as possible then undercoat it with rustoleum...