Replacing wheel cylinders - tips?

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rstl99

rstl99

10 Year 15 Year
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Hi folks
I'll soon be replacing both rear wheel brake cylinders (one of them started leaking, probably the original one, so I ordered a new set and will replace both).
I've got the wheels and brake drums off, waiting for the cylinders to arrive.
Any tips on replacing the cylinders without having to take apart the entire brake assembly (shoes, springs, etc)? Can I get by removing the top spring, pushing the shoes back, replacing the cylinders, or is it more involving than that?
To adjust the shoes after, I understand that is done by cycling the handbrake a few times. My handbrake was recently adjusted and lubricated by a mechanic, so should work fine.
WIll appreciate your thoughts. Thanks,
--Robert
 
Start spraying the brake line connection with PB Blaster.

Get some Brake Clean, you will have to dissassemble the brakes.

Check the brake line connection area of the new wheel brake cylinder before you tear yours apart. Some are machined different than others. The fittings may be different as well. Make sure yours are the same before you tear it down.
 
Got a "flare nut wrench"?

10mm to get those brake lines loose, and not round off the hex fittings.

I do use "brake spring pliers" to help get the springs back in place. I used to use a pair of old pliers until I had a spring slip, and the sharp end puncture clean through my thumb. Didn't hurt, but blood all over the new shoes was a mess. :)

Uh, you realize you need to replace the shoes once they have brake fluid on them, correct? Reading your comments sounds like you have fluid leaking inside the drum... hence wet brake linings. Always replace both sides (good idea to do both wheel cylinders) and the shoes at the same time.

Often overlooked is brake fluid should be replaced every two years. Yep, it absorbs moisture and should be replaced. If I'm good about doing that the master/wheel cylinders last many years. Usually the moisture corrodes the aluminum master or cast iron wheel cylinders. Just keep pumping new fluid out (clear line snugged over the bleeder, line up and over to trap air bubbles, line dumps into a container so the old brake fluid goes to a hazmat center). I always used Castrol GT/LMA brake fluid... but hard to find locally anymore. Valvoline "synthetic" dot3/dot4 is my second choice (Note all brake fluids are synthetic.... not sure why they bothered labelling that way).

Tom
 
One other tip... any time you go to rebuild wheel cylinders, replace hydraulic lines... make sure you can crack open the bleeders first. :)

Got done with new wheel cylinder kits, everything back in place, patting myself on the back for getting everything done so quickly... went to loosen the bleeder... SNAP! DOH! Snapped clean off...
 
Now would be a good time to also replace the old rubber brake lines; either with new rubber,
or go with steel lines.

Hope you bought a good set of cylinders; the best replacements are made in Japan;
got mine from Manafre.

X2 on all said in other replies; flush the system with new stuff, real well.
I suck out the old fluid from my reservour before I start to flush, so that the worst fluid
(in the reservour) is not pushed down through the system. Also do that on a regular basis;
suck out the old from the reservior and put in new inbetween flushes.

Good luck

g
 
Thanks all.
I wasn't expecting to carry out a full rear brake job on the truck. The shoes have plenty of life in them (though as someone pointed out, there may be brake fluid contamination, I'll have to check), the springs look relatively new, the handbrake has been recently adjusted, the brake lines have been replaced previously (last month!), the drums look fine. SO I just wanted to replace the cylinders (I _am_ doing both sides), without taking apart any more than I need to, bleed the system, and be on my way. Since brake lines were recently replaced, the whole system has obviously been fed with fresh fluid, and brake line connectors won't be an issue to remove.
So: if there is a quick way to just remove the cylinders I'd appreciate your sharing. Thanks!
--Robert
 
If they seem stuck (after you have removed the bolts, lines,etc) you can bang on them gently with a hammer (use some sort of penetrating oil first if they are rusted on); of course, clean everything off, including your hands, mounting hardware, backing plate,etc with brake cleaner to get rid of all oil before reassembly. You can try to clean the shoes with brake cleaner if they are not totally saturated.
Remember to put a touch of grease on the backing plate where the shoes rub and the adjusting star.

Here is a link to another Toy site that has nice pics.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/rearbrakes/
 
You will have to disassemble the whole brake and remove the very strong spring that pulls the brake shoes toward each other. Brake shoes are cheap-I would replace if there is the least doubt.

Get the drums machined too. It makes no sense to me to do a half assed brake job, when a complete one is like 30 minutes more work, and $50 more expensive.

One last tip--The "bellcrank" which activates the ebrake, is almost always frozen, or partially frozen. If it doesn't work well, your brakes won't self adjust. So one you have the brake apart, make sure the bellcranks move freely.

edit-gray's thought of replacing the rubber line from frame to axle is sound. It's easy to do now while it's apart and you only bleed once. They get kind of brittle over time and crack. I used a Napa line that was a couple of inches longer than stock due to the OME lift.

It was shocking to me, but the real Toyota OEM brake cylinders for the FJ60 were cheap-like $35 each. I expected much more. Have fun.

Here is a gratuitous picture of the brake assembly with all new components.
RAxle2.webp
 
Last edited:
Ok folks, you have all convinced me that I am better off re-doing the back brakes completely, and be done with it once and for many years. All the advice is very valuable, and I liked the link to the other site with pictures and instructions. Now to get the necessary other parts from Napa...
Cheers, and thanks again!:)
--Robert
 
Rear brake job done (almost)

Cruiserdrew said:
You will have to disassemble the whole brake and remove the very strong spring that pulls the brake shoes toward each other. Brake shoes are cheap-I would replace if there is the least doubt.

Get the drums machined too. It makes no sense to me to do a half assed brake job, when a complete one is like 30 minutes more work, and $50 more expensive.

One last tip--The "bellcrank" which activates the ebrake, is almost always frozen, or partially frozen. If it doesn't work well, your brakes won't self adjust. So one you have the brake apart, make sure the bellcranks move freely.

edit-gray's thought of replacing the rubber line from frame to axle is sound. It's easy to do now while it's apart and you only bleed once. They get kind of brittle over time and crack. I used a Napa line that was a couple of inches longer than stock due to the OME lift.

It was shocking to me, but the real Toyota OEM brake cylinders for the FJ60 were cheap-like $35 each. I expected much more. Have fun.

Here is a gratuitous picture of the brake assembly with all new components.
Click to expand...

Got the brake work done last weekend. New cylinders (not Toyota, they were $95 each!!), new brake shoes. I went to get the drums turned and was told they were slightly under the limit, so guess what, I have to order new brake drums. At least I'll know the job is thorough and will last. The rubber hoses looked good. Bled the rear brakes but could not bleed the front (bleeders rusted onto the calipers!). Luckily, bleeding the rear got rid of the air and I can drive now. Will address the front brakes next year, replace the bleeders etc.

Adjusting them was pretty easy: backed off the adjuster all the way, put the drums on, and just cranked that e-brake handle for about 100 cycles (checking that the drums turned freely every 25 cranks or so). You can hear the adjuster click each time. Eventually, it got tight when I pulled the handle, checked the drums and one wheel was tight, the other close-to-tight; released the handle and both turned freely. Job done.

Thanks again for the good tips and encouragement. The brake job wasn't as difficult as I had thought, pretty straightforward. And that link to the 4runner brake job instructions was great!

CHeers!:)
 
WHeel cylinders are same as 80 Series.
Go to Napa and get your parts.

I got all I needed @ napa for the cost of one wheel cylinder from the dealership, even with the TLCA discount.

Call ahead and make certain all you need is in stock.

john
 
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