Replaced Master/Booster won’t run to start bleeding

[ScotyDosentKnow]

I replaced my failed brake master/booster with a new OEM unit.

Filled the reservoir with fluid and pumped 40 times with the key off. When I turn key on the motor comes on but doesn’t run. It cycles on and off. Not sure what to do here, tried 5 or 6 times now.

When I pump the pedal there is some pressure but seems to go away after about 10 pumps.

Please help!

 

[Kamran Khan]

Bleed each brake line individually next to the firewall or you will damage your new brake booster. Pump the brake pedal 10 or 20 times with the key off. Turn the key to the ON position, have someone pump and hold the brake pedal to the floor. Crack open one of the brake line (just get it loose not all the way open) close to the firewall, when the brake fluid starts squirting or flowing from loosen up brake line, get it tight with open end 10mm wrench. Once the brake line is tight, tell the person in the driver seat to let the brake pedal go. Do this to all 4 brake lines close to the firewall. It will purge the air out of the brake booster.

 

[ScotyDosentKnow]

Bleed each brake line individually next to the firewall or you will damage your new brake booster. Pump the brake pedal 10 or 20 times with the key off. Turn the key to the ON position, have someone pump and hold the brake pedal to the floor. Crack open one of the brake line (just get it loose not all the way open) close to the firewall, when the brake fluid starts squirting or flowing from loosen up brake line, get it tight with open end 10mm wrench. Once the brake line is tight, tell the person in the driver seat to let the brake pedal go. Do this to all 4 brake lines close to the firewall. It will purge the air out of the brake booster.

Thank you, I did exactly this and was able to get it to come on and run 30seconds. Sirens gone as well with key on.

 

[ScotyDosentKnow]

NM found what I was looking for!