Removing stock roof rack: Penetrating oil OK or headliner nightmare?

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yes, that's true.
Come to think of it, if that works, I could remove the rack and leave the nutserts in there and plug the holes somehow, no? Then no need to remove the liner...?
hmmm.... why are you taking yours out entirely again? Maybe I should reconsider.
E

added: still another thought - can you one tighten these nutserts with the proper tool after the screw is out?
 
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Yes, you can tighten the nutserts with a nutsert tool. But if your threads are rusty, I wouldn't. You might get the nutsert tool stuck and be back at square one.
 
e9999 said:
yes, that's true.
Come to think of it, if that works, I could remove the rack and leave the nutserts in there and plug the holes somehow, no? Then no need to remove the liner...?
hmmm.... why are you taking yours out entirely again? Maybe I should reconsider.
E



I had rust all arround the nutsert that I wanted to remove, you could try to plug the holes with body filler (dont use bondo it holds water and causes more rust) the Duraglass I had arround would not set up could not gere more in newnan on sunday (see other thread linked above) tried using some replacemnt nutserts (Blind Nuts) but the shortest ones I could get were to long to grab the thin metal, broke the tool trying to force them, finally decide to just put nuts on them, that requires acces the the back side, removed headliner and still do not have acces to all the ones I need because of the sunroof pan

If I had not been looking for all those short cuts that lead to dead ends I think I would be done by now, you should have better luck as this has been one problem after the other for me, half my problem is it has rained every weekend since I started this, I have to work between showers

added: still another thought - can you one tighten these nutserts with the proper tool after the screw is out?

how are you going to get the screw out? my 4 spinners were locked in nothing I could do from the outside would seperate the screw from the nutsert, maybe your wont be as rusty?
 
Does this same potential nightmare (removing the headliner thing) exist if trying to unscrew and remove the plastic end pieces that hold the roof rib-rails (not roof rack). On want to take these off to remove and repaint the rib-rails (or whatever the heck they're called).

Thanks
Rookie2
 
Rookie2 said:
Does this same potential nightmare (removing the headliner thing) exist if trying to unscrew and remove the plastic end pieces that hold the roof rib-rails (not roof rack). On want to take these off to remove and repaint the rib-rails (or whatever the heck they're called).

Thanks
Rookie2

don't know for sure but imagine they are also held by nutserts.

Now that I calmed down, I'm reconsidering my plans a bit. I will go get some more Kroil and put a drop on each screw and hopefully that won't mess up the headliner. Will wait a bit and then try and unscrew all the other screws before I take off more stuff inside. Maybe try and drill the heads off if needed.

And here is another screwy(?) idea : one could make some clean holes in the headliner (to be plugged later with plastic plugs) right under the screws to access them without taking the headliner off if the liner removal is problematic (brittleness and all). Would that work in the sunroof area as well, RT?

E
 
R2 the ribs have the same nutserts, but none of those on mine rusted or gave any trouble, as long as yours are in similar condition it will be very easy, just remove the screws and then the end caps and the steel ribs will slide off the molded rubber base that is glued to the roof, I think those will give less trouble because the screws only hold on the caps, the weight of the ribs and whatever is put on it goes directly to the roof, the longitudinal beams however put all the load on the feet and the screws in particular, leading to chafing

E, I would not recommend you cut the headliner, it is about 2hrs to get of and probably a little longer to put back together, worth it IMO to save it, It sounds like you have a good plan to get it out without damage

if you did cut a hole in it in the front after you cut through the headliner you would then have to cut a matching hole in the sunroof pan and then the "plug" in the pan would have to be water tight or every time it rains it would leak, also I have not seen in the pan yet there are cables and tracks in there you may find one or more of them in the way, also the pan has a lot of reinforcing ribs cutting one of those would weaken the pan, it carries a lot of weight

if you are just working the rear you still run the risk of cutting a hole and finding you need more access (to get tools hand in ect) and wind up having to take it off anyway and the task of repairing the headliner

if you refuse to take the headliner down you should come up with a good blind repair, I could not but I got close, now that I have a busted tool part and loose blind nuts in my roof I have to get access to the rear,

I’lll say it again, if I had started out moving in this direction instead of looking for shortcuts I would be done by now, maybe you will have better luck with them but already you have more time thinking about how to get around it then it would have taken to just remove the headliner in the first place, I did the same thing that is why I have not finished a project I started 4 week ago

Just do it

E do you have any spinners in the front?
 
Raven,

Have you removed and pianted your ribs? If so, did you do any particular prep. or use any particular products to get a decent bond between the paint and the aluminum ribs?

Thanks,
Rookie2
 
Raven, I have not tried any other mount yet besides the ugly one. I will put Kroil in there first to minimize the chance of generating more spinners. As far as plugging the holes if I have spinners, I may look into gluing a good looking plug/patch on top. Some colored plastic thin "pad" if I can find it. Would probably look OK. Something that would look like a removable mount of sorts. If big enough, it would cover the repainted area if any.
E
 
I think the ribs are steel, or at least they were heavy, maybe it was thick aluminum, I did not look very closely as I was angrily ripping the evil rack off, I'll have to take a closer look at them, I am planning to paint the rear deflector and its feet (aluminum/plastic) the procedure would be the same



scrub them with fine scotch btite pad, strong detergent like simple green and water, rinse with lots of water, dry and then a final wipe with a good non residue solvent like alcohol acetone or MEK, (preference in that order for health reasons) this will scuff the surface and remove any dirt, oils or other contaminants, the surface is already kind of coarse it should take paint well, light coat of primer and two or three thin but fully wetted coats of paint about 30min apart , you can wet sand with 2k grit paper and then a very fine polishing compound after a few days or curing for a mirror finish,
 
I took a look at the removed ribs tonight, thin, heavy, and a magnet sticks strongly, they are steel
 
OK, put some penetrating oil (SilKroil) on the heads of the screws -one drop per screw only cuz I don't want to stain the headliner-. Tried to remove the runner screws first since these are supposed to be unproblematic. First 3 I took off I checked to see how far the oil had gone down. Probably not entirely down to nutsert, but they came out fine anyway. Until the last one... Got another spinner, darn it...
Aaargh....!

OK, one more drop on all remaining screws.

More saga to come



Had another thought on an easy -perhaps- way to handle the spinners: how about I grind the screw head off (probably easier than drilling if it's spinning), and remove the rack. That leaves me with a busted nutsert in there. Somehow I get it either down into the headliner or off through the hole. Then I use one of these tilting bar screw gizmos that one uses for drywall. You slide it in the hole, if there is enough space, it flips horizontal and then I screw a rubber washer outside. Would be removable too.

How much space between roof metal and headliner, folks?

E
 
Well hard to say exactly how much space there is,

In the rear row of holes: the 3rd row dome light screws directly to one of the roof supports so I think the bottom of this support is close to the top of the headliner, the support is around .6" (+/- .1") thick, those anchors leave a lot of exposed screw sticking out when installed , you may be able to find some tiny ones

In the front there is the potential for a couple inches if you never want to open your sunroof or sunshade, not sure what the clearance is if you want to use the sunroof haven’t got that far yet

Another problem with the anchors is most are much larger than the hole we have, after you remove the nutserts the "factory" holes are just over a 1/4" but quite a bit less than 5/16", I guess you could hog it out to a huge hole to get the anchor through but that seams counter productive to me you would still have the above problems even worse with normal size anchors


I am going to start on the sunroof tonight, I’ll let you know how it goes
 
Oh BTW drillign the heads off the screws was the easiest part the philips cross centers the bit faily well and you just drill until the head pops off, but I guess there is no harm in takign a saws-all/__ to the feet and screws together
 
RavenTai said:
Oh BTW drillign the heads off the screws was the easiest part the philips cross centers the bit faily well and you just drill until the head pops off, but I guess there is no harm in takign a saws-all/__ to the feet and screws together

Good that your drilling went well, my spinners seem to spin pretty readily.

I might work out my own anchor system if I decide not to take the headliner out. For now, I got 2 spinners in the back but I'm not done yet there. I'm going to go easy in the front and Kroil them well, in the hope that those at least come off then I don't have to deal with the sunroof hopefully.

RT, you still pretty sure that if I overKroil the Front it'll just go in the pan, not the headliner, right?

E
 
and another idea, maybe more reasonable:

I drill or grind the spinner screw heads off (if they don't spin too much).
I remove the rack.
I'm left with a screw in a spinner.
I put some Kroil on the screw.
I clean the nutserts off with solvent (how?)
I put some penetrating superglue under the nutsert flange to glue it to the roof metal.
Then I remove the screw if it will come off.
Then I'm golden if the rust is not too bad...

waddaya think this time, eh :idea: ?

E
 
e9999 said:
Good that your drilling went well, my spinners seem to spin pretty readily.

I might work out my own anchor system if I decide not to take the headliner out. For now, I got 2 spinners in the back but I'm not done yet there. I'm going to go easy in the front and Kroil them well, in the hope that those at least come off then I don't have to deal with the sunroof hopefully.

RT, you still pretty sure that if I overKroil the Front it'll just go in the pan, not the headliner, right?

E

My spinners were still tight enough to drill wile the rack was attached, give it a try, that Phillips head is useless to you on the spinners, you have nothing lose, #11 or 3/16 bit will do nicely, lube and light pressure should allow it to be drilled just fine

You do not have spinners in the front yet? This is good :)

Doing all you can on the front to prevent sunroof pan removal, I would go strait to drilling the heads off so you can get directly to the screw/nutsert joint and apply kroil directly to where it needs to be, also when you attack the screw to nutsert joint you can watch and see what is going on, where as with the rack feet in place you are left wondering, “is it spinning out or is it spinning the nutsert?”

Yes any oil that drips through the front row will fall into a fiberglass pan, from this posts and others I do not think you have a grasp of the sunroof pan (neither did I) look at the height change of the headliner, this is where the pan ends.

I drill out a lot of fasteners at work, maybe several thousand a month? , one that always spins are small pop rivets used for nutplates (3/32”) after you establish a center so the drill will stay you can bring the bit over to about 20* and even though the rivet and bit are both spinning at the same speed the cutting edge of the bit moves foreword and backward on the surface because of the angle, if yours spin try that out, it will take a wile on this relatively large fastener (3/16”) but it will work even if it spins

e9999 said:
and another idea, maybe more reasonable:

I drill or grind the spinner screw heads off (if they don't spin too much).
I remove the rack.
I'm left with a screw in a spinner.
I put some Kroil on the screw.
I clean the nutserts off with solvent (how?)
I put some penetrating superglue under the nutsert flange to glue it to the roof metal.
Then I remove the screw if it will come off.
Then I'm golden if the rust is not too bad...

waddaya think this time, eh :idea: ?

E

You can always try it, but the root problem here is that the screw rusts to the nutsert, that is a lot of surface area, it is not that the nutserts are not installed incorrectly just that the screw/nutsert interface is a lot more rotational strength than the nutsert/sheetmeatl joint,

At work we call these rivnuts they are junk, we use them to hold up small signs and other light weight cabin crap that is not worth getting to the back side of, that is why they use them here they used them here they hold long enough to install the rack

I do not think that glue will reinforce this joint sufficiently enough the do what you are looking for, if the screw is really stuck it will just brake the glue, the sheet metal is so thin and the flange so small there is just not squat for strength available here

Here is my recommendation:

You already have spinners in the rear, remove the headliner (you are already half way there) grab on to the back of the nutserts with visegrips and take apart the aft row, drill the entire front row to get the rack off, directly soak them in Kroil overnight, and then in the morning try to remove the screws from the nutserts if the spin remove the sunroof pan and put regular nuts on the spinners or all as you desire


A possible blind option is to grind and knock the nutsets through and fill with fiberglass or some other good body filler (never bondo) and prime and paint, this was my original plan but it did not work because of circumstances
 
RT,
right now, I'm leaning toward Kroiling them up, trying to take them off and if they spin, drill or grind the heads off. After the rack is off, I can see better what I'm dealing with. At that point I may remove the liner or not. Main reason I'm hesitating to remove it right away is that is that you seem to think that the sunroof removal is a major piece of work, and also, as Dan mentioned, it would not be good if the liner were to be damaged...
More tomorrow...

I really did not need any of this! Why me?

-no, don't answer the last one...-

E
 
blah!

am terminally procrastinating on finishing this up...
Using the excuse that I need to Kroil the suckers up every day for at least a week... or two....
Don't want to deal with the dang roof and liner...

Anyway the good thing about not working on the truck is that I made myself an offroad trailer... yea!

E
 
dang, this was a good helpful thread.

Back to it!

Kroil didn't work for squat.

One more question:
is there enough flex in the headliner that if I just remove the rearmost 3 clips, and maybe the center 2, I could get access to the underside of the rear corner mount spinners? Or do I have to remove the front clips, visors, roofrack junk and all?

blah!

E
 
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