Removing Roof Drip Moulding

[Since 1995]

Sure was....

On my 2000 LC thats the front foot mounting location for my old factory rack.

Seems between the LX and LC depending on years 98-07 they moved where they were.

Some had a center foot that had a slip in notch where others had a couple bolts.

I think Lexus used the shorter racks to be absolutely sure they made them quieter.

View attachment 2709808

Greenbean. I have a 2000 LC and want to complete remove the roof rack, and seal any possible "leaking" areas on the roof. It looks like there are PEM type nuts that the rack fixes to which may be a source of leaking. Then I want to replace the roof drip moulding with a single strip with RH 75505-60020 LH 75506-60020. Can I remove the rack, remove the existing roof drip moulding, and just put the new single strips on? Or do I need other bits, like clips 75562-60002? Since 1995

 

[Greenbean]

Hmmmm,
Well if you just want a slick top I wouldn’t remove the moulding completely.

Thing is when it’s removed yeah you can super clean everything but the chances of getting them off without permanent bends and/or damage was impossible for me.

You can get the three (per side) proper sized fill in “plates” or trim pieces that will seal the openings but you’ll need to source the correct bolts (M8 x 1.25 and max 30mm in length from whatI can find) with sealing washers to put in the place if your open holes after the rack feet are removed. The plastic long rectangular trim fillers don’t seal water out, just large bits of debris.

Then get the factory “caps” that clip into the openings left behind once your rack is removed,

There is a thread around here covering the part numbers..

Actually I think you also posted in one of the others,

 

[Since 1995]

Hmmmm,
Well if you just want a slick top I wouldn’t remove the moulding completely.

Thing is when it’s removed yeah you can super clean everything but the chances of getting them off without permanent bends and/or damage was impossible for me.

You can get the three (per side) proper sized fill in “plates” or trim pieces that will seal the openings but you’ll need to source the correct bolts (M8 x 1.25 and max 30mm in length from whatI can find) with sealing washers to put in the place if your open holes after the rack feet are removed. The plastic long rectangular trim fillers don’t seal water out, just large bits of debris.

Then get the factory “caps” that clip into the openings left behind once your rack is removed,

There is a thread around here covering the part numbers..

Actually I think you also posted in one of the others,

Thanks all, I will stick with "B". that is, remove the carrier. install the hardware (I ordered it from
McMaster Carr
97654A683: M8 x 1.25 10mm 18-8 Stainless Steel Flanged Button Head Screw
90133A615, M8 Screw Size, 8.4 mm ID, 16 mm OD Oil-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Sealing Washer

I have the 6 snap in plates

 

[Since 1995]

Thanks all, I will stick with "B". that is, remove the carrier. install the hardware (I ordered it from
McMaster Carr
97654A683: M8 x 1.25 10mm 18-8 Stainless Steel Flanged Button Head Screw
90133A615, M8 Screw Size, 8.4 mm ID, 16 mm OD Oil-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Sealing Washer

I have the 6 snap in plates

All the 10mm is not correct, way too short. The threaded part stock screw before the shoulder is 3/4" or about 19mm. I will try again!