Removing Black Tar Insulating Material

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Joined
May 23, 2004
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Location
Chattanooga, TN
Ok...Anyone have any suggestions and/or tips to remove the Black Tar material from the floor of my '80 FJ40?? Pass. side isn't too bad using 1" chisel/ narrow screwdriver and a 5 in one paint tool. But the diriver's side is all gummed up and thick (ie, this stuff melted, flowed and pooled into several solid masses). I guess from the Catalytic Convertor, when we had one.

This stuff is cracking (for years now) and allowing water/dirt to pool, and the rust is a-coming. I want to get it all out in anticipation of some type of spray on liner.

Any and all suggestions will be attempted!

Thanks!

todd
 
It's messy....but it worked

What I did in preparation for the bedliner coating was to chip away as much of the tar as I could when it was cold. To get the remainder of it, I resorted to using a propane torch with a wide nozzle. Heat the tar up until it just starts to flow a bit, then use a paint scraper to get it off. (This is the messy part!!) After this step, I used mineral spirits and lots of rags to remove the last of the glop. Finally, I lightly sanded the floors, then cleaned with xylene. (Very stinky and toxic, so wear gloves and do in a well ventilated area!!)
YMMV! Best of luck!
 
What he said... doing it cold is better. I used a wood chisel and a hammer ( careful with the angle of the chisel) then pure laquer thinner and a ton of rags, the paint under it is brand new and shiny.

It is a real pain to do took me 3 hours with all my energy to get it all clean.
 
doing it cold is better.

It is a real pain to do took me 3 hours with all my energy to get it all clean.[/QUOTE]


Ha! Cold in Tennessee in July :D

Took me about 2hrs to chisel it out, went well once I developed a technique...the 5 in 1 and a hammer worked well...a bit too wide in spots, but an old dull chisel took care of that. I still need to wipe it down to dissolve the rest. Also need to get under the seats, but didn't feel like removing them today.

It sucked...time for :beer:

Thanks for the support!

--TS
 
Bumping this thread. I have a 1981 FJ40 and the PO painted and sprayed some cheap bedliner type material in the interior. I’m slowly removing all the paint but nearly impossible to do so on the tar area because the blue comes off with the black overcoat. Therefore, I believe that I will remove the tar. My question is: 1) Does it serve the purpose of heat insulation and sound deadening? 2) what should I replace it with?
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I just did some of mine with propane from the underside. Then, I cleaned it up with gasoline, then autowax (Meguirs). In some areas, I hot-knifed it with a chisel.

Interesting to see primer under it on the tub, and nothing under it on the transmission hump. Now my foot can operate the throttle without my shoe interfering with the tar. In some cases, the factory routing of the exhaust, or header, melted the tar, that would have been a nasty road trip for sure.

Removing the floor mat, tar, and painting it smooth with OE-color enamel, is the my most appreciated modification from factory spec that I see on any Mudder's Cruiser.
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I have heard, though not tried personally, that some dry ice will chill it so well you can break it loose super clean with a hammer. If I decide to remove mine, that's my plan.

As I'm sure you know, be sure to not touch the dry ice with your bare skin.
 
One of the issues with my (heat) thermal approach, is the tar rests on a rib on the body. So, I couldn't heat it from the underside, and the tar is a bit of an insulator, and thick, so the hot (and kind dull) chisel was more effective to, 'getting-at-it' then the heat from up top.
 
I just did some of mine with propane from the underside. Then, I cleaned it up with gasoline, then autowax (Meguirs). In some areas, I hot-knifed it with a chisel.

Interesting to see primer under it on the tub, and nothing under it on the transmission hump. Now my foot can operate the throttle without my shoe interfering with the tar. In some cases, the factory routing of the exhaust, or header, melted the tar, that would have been a nasty road trip for sure.

Removing the floor mat, tar, and painting it smooth with OE-color enamel, is the my most appreciated modification from factory spec that I see on any Mudder's Cruiser.
View attachment 2288941View attachment 2288942View attachment 2288943
Thank you for the advice and the pictures. Again, I'm assuming the purpose of the tar was insulation and perhaps noise deadening? If I remove it and decide I want more insulation, I suppose I can always add some. I am striving for a clear floorboard without the need for mats to cover up the poorly done "bedliner" job. My torn mats look better than what I have underneath.
 
I have heard, though not tried personally, that some dry ice will chill it so well you can break it loose super clean with a hammer. If I decide to remove mine, that's my plan.

As I'm sure you know, be sure to not touch the dry ice with your bare skin.
i have been reading and watching videos on that. I think I might try it!
 
I have heard, though not tried personally, that some dry ice will chill it so well you can break it loose super clean with a hammer. If I decide to remove mine, that's my plan.

As I'm sure you know, be sure to not touch the dry ice with your bare skin.
Doing this method right now... incredibly easy!
 
Sweet! In curious, is the dry ice in big blocks, or more like crushed ice?
 
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