Reboot or Replace CV Axle (1 Viewer)

[tylrdvs277]

Hello All,

Just lifted my 2008 4Runner with 210k miles. As part of the lift I switched to Duralast front sway links. I just realized the lower stud is not long enough and the nut can't even fully thread on. Unfortunately, I only realized this after the driver side backed off and the sway bar wasted my CV boot .

My question is: is it worth rebooting the CVs with 210k miles ore should I just eat the cost and buy a new (preferably OEM p/n 4343060082) set of axles.

Thanks,

Tyler

 

[tylrdvs277]

Hello All,

Just lifted my 2008 4Runner with 210k miles. As part of the lift I switched to Duralast front sway links. I just realized the lower stud is not long enough and the nut can't even fully thread on. Unfortunately, I only realized this after the driver side backed off and the sway bar wasted my CV boot .

My question is: is it worth rebooting the CVs with 210k miles ore should I just eat the cost and buy a new (preferably OEM p/n 4343060082) set of axles.

Thanks,

Tyler

I should add that the originals have had no problems

 

[Rednexus]

Rebooting the CVs is pretty easy, it's maybe a 30 minute job per side after the axles is out. I had been buying reman CV's but have now switched to rebooting. It's also much cheaper than new OEM axles.

Since you have a lift you might want to try high-angle CV boots. I used this set and they have been good so far:

AllPro Offroad AP-306232

Free Shipping - AllPro Offroad AP-306232 with qualifying orders of $109. Shop CV Boots at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[tylrdvs277]

Rebooting the CVs is pretty easy, it's maybe a 30 minute job per side after the axles is out. I had been buying reman CV's but have now switched to rebooting. It's also much cheaper than new OEM axles.

Since you have a lift you might want to try high-angle CV boots. I used this set and they have been good so far:

AllPro Offroad AP-306232

Free Shipping - AllPro Offroad AP-306232 with qualifying orders of $109. Shop CV Boots at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Thanks for a suggestion. The CVs definitely have a lot of miles, but I think you’re right. It’s definitely worth a reboot first. If they go bad not long after I’m only out $100 or so.

Thanks for the suggestion on the kit. I actually ordered the boots and misc stuff for a 5th gen directly from Toyota. Worked out to $90 or so. I heard the 5th gen boots are better than the 4th

 

[tylrdvs277]

Rebooting the CVs is pretty easy, it's maybe a 30 minute job per side after the axles is out. I had been buying reman CV's but have now switched to rebooting. It's also much cheaper than new OEM axles.

Since you have a lift you might want to try high-angle CV boots. I used this set and they have been good so far:

AllPro Offroad AP-306232

Free Shipping - AllPro Offroad AP-306232 with qualifying orders of $109. Shop CV Boots at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

One more question. I first noticed some grease on the driveway a couple weeks ago, and just yesterday I noticed the CV boot was torn. Finally put those together in my head. In between those I probably drove 150 miles or so all highway or in town. Do you think that’s ok? The rip is up by the axle shaft.

 

[Rednexus]

Yes, it should be fine. As long as you catch it early and there is still some grease in the CV axle when you take it apart, it should be good. What kills them is getting run for long period of time and getting sand/dirt inside the CV, which will destroy it. You'll be able to inspect everything for damage when you have it apart.

I also recommend a pair of these for the ring that holds the three bearings to the axle shaft:
Amazon product ASIN B00209ETSS
You might need a pair of CV boot pliers too. I used a cheapo pair and bent them on my 3rd clamp, then bought a pair of these. Not sure if they'll work with a OEM Toyota clamp or not, but they are needed for most aftermarket ear-style clamps.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/lisle/tools---equipment/mechanics-tools/drivetrain-tools/62e5b72da5fd/lisle-cv-pliers/lis0/30800?pos=8

Rebooting CV axles is a common theme in lifted Toyota life, so it's worth it to get the good tools.

 

[tylrdvs277]

Yes, it should be fine. As long as you catch it early and there is still some grease in the CV axle when you take it apart, it should be good. What kills them is getting run for long period of time and getting sand/dirt inside the CV, which will destroy it. You'll be able to inspect everything for damage when you have it apart.

I also recommend a pair of these for the ring that holds the three bearings to the axle shaft:
Amazon product ASIN B00209ETSS
You might need a pair of CV boot pliers too. I used a cheapo pair and bent them on my 3rd clamp, then bought a pair of these. Not sure if they'll work with a OEM Toyota clamp or not, but they are needed for most aftermarket ear-style clamps.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/lisle/tools---equipment/mechanics-tools/drivetrain-tools/62e5b72da5fd/lisle-cv-pliers/lis0/30800?pos=8

Rebooting CV axles is a common theme in lifted Toyota life, so it's worth it to get the good tools.

I’ll get used to it then!

When looking at the axle what are the signs of wear? I’m sure I’ll want to look at the splines and see if there’s any grease in the boots. Anything else?

 

[Rednexus]

Just make sure all of the bearings move freely and that nothing seems to be broken or have wear grooves in it. There are quite a few YouTube videos on the rebooting as well.

 

[tylrdvs277]

Just make sure all of the bearings move freely and that nothing seems to be broken or have wear grooves in it. There are quite a few YouTube videos on the rebooting as well.

Just got around to rebooting. Job was easy enough, but now on low speed turns there’s some grinding

 

[Rednexus]

Just got around to rebooting. Job was easy enough, but now on low speed turns there’s some grinding

Uh oh! Were you able to get grease everywhere, on both sides of the joint? I have not ran into that issue before.

 

[tylrdvs277]

Uh oh! Were you able to get grease everywhere, on both sides of the joint? I have not ran into that issue before.

My dad figured it out! When we pulled the hub away it bent the dust cover behind the rotor so it was scraping against the brake rotor. Bent it back and all good. Thanks for all the help!