Rear rotor removal
- Thread starter lt403
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If you will back off the emergency brake through the hole with a rubber insert, tap with a hammer, it should come right off. If you don't back off the emergency brake, the hub will eventually come off but destroy the brake hardware inside.
You can borrow a bolt from the hood area. Try using the one that holds the battery bracket down.
You can also spray some lubricant of sorts on the center part of the hub where the rotor is. Then use a mallet and gently tap to break it loose. As jemsec mentioned above, make sure your ebrake is backed off.
You can also spray some lubricant of sorts on the center part of the hub where the rotor is. Then use a mallet and gently tap to break it loose. As jemsec mentioned above, make sure your ebrake is backed off.
You only need one, once it breaks loose usually comes right off. Comments about e brake are because even when lever is down the pads are close enough to potentially bind up when you go to pull the rotor. Unfortunately know this one first hand, had to fix and repair one side on mine. Wish I had read and got this advice before I did mine instead of just jumping in like any other rear brake service I had ever done.
The emergency brake is inside the hub of the rotor. Adjusting wheel is dead center at the bottom on the inside. Rotate hub until adjust hole is lined up with the wheel on the inside. You can see it using a light. Use a brake tool of screwdriver, that will fit in the hole. Turn wheel until the hub slides off. If you turn it the wrong way, the brake will stop the hub all together. Then you will know which way to turn to get it off.
Refer to replacing land cruiser brakes on you tube if you need pictures. Not much else to know that hasn't been said above. If that doesn't' work take to a shop.
It's 8x1.25 bolts. I'd get no shorter than 50mm length, but if you can get longer, go for it. You need two, and you need to tighten the bolts equally to ensure the rotor walks off of the axle hub without ripping the e-brake shoes out of the hardware.
You will not get the rotors off without backing off the emergency brake. There is a little rubber plug on the hub - remove it and spin the rotor until the plug is at about 6 o'clock. Shine a light in there and you'll see a small metal wheel with teeth. Use your screwdriver to spin the wheel (up to loosen if I recall). This will back the shoes off the inside of the rotor so it can be removed. Once the new rotor is on, you'll have to spin the wheel the other way until you feel a slight drag.
I actually had a very difficult time getting my rear rotors off. They were rusted on like I've never seen. I didn't have bolts to remove the rotors so after trying everything else, I finally laid beneath the rear of the LC and hit the backside of the rotor with the backside of my wood splitting maul. Popped right off.
Adding to this, those conditions are assuming the parking brake shoe tension is properly set. Once the initial drag is set by someone servicing them, the tolerances increase with use.
You can't help the helpless!
I would use this as a guide:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-change-a-broken-lug.68161/
Little bits of advice like a smaller hammer that can easily fit vs. trying to use a bfh and risk damaging something else. If you have access to a small press that would probably be easier and best - but this write up seems to hit all the high points.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-change-a-broken-lug.68161/
Little bits of advice like a smaller hammer that can easily fit vs. trying to use a bfh and risk damaging something else. If you have access to a small press that would probably be easier and best - but this write up seems to hit all the high points.
Changed out a busted rear lug a few weeks ago, 2lb hammer and 3/8 drift did the job nicely. Restarted the new lug with washer packers and new lug nut, wheel back on then pulled the lug bolt home easily with a torque wrench at 50-60 ft lbs. You will feel it seat in and then take the nut to 100 ft lbs or whatever your preferred torque is.