Real time AHC fluid exchange assist (1 Viewer)

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So I am changing the AHC fluid in my LX the challenge I have is I can't see any fluid in the tank. I have drained and replace about 3qts out of the DF and the fluid is coming out pretty clean. But I couldn't see any level to start so I filled to over flow and still couldn't see any fluid even with the tank back lit.

I have 2qts left and wonder how I should proceed?
 
Yes, Started placed in Hi did the DS Front after I relieve the pressure I start, raise to hi and repeated a few times. I can get all the ranges but it's slow. I removed 3L and replaced with 31/2 and the tank looks empty. I removed the plastic mud guard under the tupperwear bumper to get a better look and still looks empty.
 
Did you vac out the tank before you started draining from the bleed points? Did you replace any fluid to the tank between bleeding from point to point? I remember putting 1-2L in the tank after I bleed each wheel.
 
I couldn't see any fluid to start and put in about 1/2L, bleed out about 6-8 oz, filled tank until it over flow which I think was a venting thing. I didn't put a liter in for each bleed but then only got 6-8 oz per bleed. As it stands I removed 3L put in 31/2 and in N I can't for certain see anything in the tank. I can cycle through the L-N-H but it's very slow. H struggles (slow) which would make me think I might be low on fluid. However I have 1/2 L more than I removed, minus a little spillage. I still can't see it in the tank, is it pretty obvious?

Would I be better off putting in the rest of the 4thL and have a potential over fill vs underfill situation? I can park on the street if it vents?
 
On mine I needed to shoot some Purple Power/Simple Green and hose (with the cap on, obviously). Next I needed a super bright, focusing beam flashlight. It was very hard for me to see the level but once cleaned and a good flashlight I could barely see it. Ambient light matters on this one. The dye in the fluid should be darker.
 
I would say try and clean the tank so you can see the level or assume that it went dry and you pulled air into the system and you need to completely re bleed
 
Thanks I will look for a brighter light. I cleaned the tank before I started with parts cleaner and then soapy water.
 
I think I will also drop the spare and see how much that improves the visability after this conf call. I was wondering if there was air in the system before as it was pretty slow. I guess need more fluid or take a trip to the dealer and have them do it as I have travel every week between tomorrow and the end of Sept and Elk season is the first week of Oct.

I assume since I have no errors driving in N is ok and shouldn't cause any damage?


edit, I cleaned the back side of the tank and used an old cell phone and selfie stick to get it in position to see the level. I am now over full in hi. I'll use my last liter and a 1/2 to try an bleed the system and flush what i can.
 
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I put a light on the frame behind the tank so it would shine thru to the access port.
It is slow to fill so that is normal.
You should never have less then L level on gauge in the reservoOr or else youll get air in the system.
 
I might be stating the obvious but fluid level is at highest in low setting. Is that when you are checking it?


Yes but always good to check the SFB factor. But I also looked and stopped when the fluid was at low when on the Hi setting. Now I believe I may have air in the do I continue the same process?
 
I think you need to continue. FWIW when I did this, I used a big syringe to evacuate almost all the fluid from the reservoir, then bled each corner. Most fluid came out of FL bleeder. Then I filled up reservoir to “max”, started truck, cycled, bled until I had done each corner. I did have to add small amounts of fluid between bleeds.
 
Thanks, I will go back at it tonight or this afternoon I have an early am flight an expect to make a 5;20 ferry.
 

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