Rack and Pinion

[MTZ FJ40]

I'm searching for some answers and/or recommendations. My rack and pinion currently went bad and had to have it replaced. my mechanic informed me that my rack and pinion is going to be prone to breakdown again due to my 2 inch lift. My 100 has a 2 inch diff drop kit along with the 2 inch lift. Has anyone had this issue and found a way to remedy the problem? Do you know if anyone fabricates an outer tie rod end that corrects the angle coming out of the rack? .Please let me know what you've done or if my mechanic is incorrect. thanks in advance!!

 

[TahoeZ]

There really isn't any significant additional strain placed on the steering rack by lifting. Additional strain on rack and steering components is primarily created by running larger, heavier and more aggressive tires, adding weight to the vehicle, driving "style" (taking corners fast, etc.) and driving off road.

 

[MTZ FJ40]

There really isn't any significant additional strain placed on the steering rack by lifting. Additional strain on rack and steering components is primarily created by running larger, heavier and more aggressive tires, adding weight to the vehicle, driving "style" (taking corners fast, etc.) and driving off road.

thank you for the feedback. do you know if there is anyone out there that fabricates

There really isn't any significant additional strain placed on the steering rack by lifting. Additional strain on rack and steering components is primarily created by running larger, heavier and more aggressive tires, adding weight to the vehicle, driving "style" (taking corners fast, etc.) and driving off road.

do you know if anyone fabricates an outer tie rod end that corrects the angle coming out of the rack?

 

[TahoeZ]

Not that I’m aware of. I haven’t heard about that being an issue.

 

[scubadoober]

thank you for the feedback. do you know if there is anyone out there that fabricates

do you know if anyone fabricates an outer tie rod end that corrects the angle coming out of the rack?

I am not sure what you are referring to here. The inner tie rod has to pivot on the same plane as the lower control arm. Otherwise as the suspension cycled the steering geometry would change causing bump steer, or changes in toe. There is no angle correction as the inner tie rod is a ball and socket. "If" you mean a bump steer kit or steering angle correction kit, a double wishbone suspension typically doesn't suffer from bump steer while cycling like a MacPherson. Your mechanic is giving himself an out to quote more work in the future. Drive the truck and replace the stuff that breaks, rubs, or makes noise.

 

[whitec13]

There are tons of us on here running various lift heights, tire sizes, and additional weight that don’t have reoccurring R&P issues. I could see this being an issue on something with 4”-6” of lift, as we have seen it on 2nd Gen Tundras at work and created an outer TRE with a bend to solve the contact. But that’s all the issue is/was - contact. Not premature or frequent failure of the R&P. How familiar with this platform is your mechanic? That typically plays a part in this type of discussion as well. These truly are unique beasts, that tend to differ from most other vehicles in a multitude of ways. Good luck on the R&P, I just replaced mine myself, not too terrible of a job.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Your steering rack’s lifespan can easily be attributed to your power steering fluid’s service interval. 50k miles power steering fluid full drain and fill is recommended especially if you are going to run bigger tires as your power steering pump will be working extra harder to turn that heavier mass. Not to mention if you have added extra weight from steel bumpers, winch, lights, etc which is added work to turn the wheels. #1 cause of PS rack leaks and eventually failure is contaminated ps fluid that has been ignored. Small solid particles acts like sand paper on the seals until it ruptures it.