Quick answer requested: Rear lat. control rod (1 Viewer)

[CT Grillguy]

How difficult is it to replace the Rear lateral control rod with minimal tools, etc. I see in the FSM there are some special tools required. Would I be better off having a mechanic do this for me? Anyone have a quick price quote on the parts? Just a guestimate will do. The wrench is talking about $400 for the job including parts. I can pay it, but would rather save the money for beer.

 

[Beowulf]

Are you talking about the rear panhard? Can you post FSM pics of the rod in question?

If it is the rear panhard, all you need is a large socket or two and a 1/2" breaker bar and a torque wrench. 2 bolts as I recall. If you need a new one then you should consider the adjustable HD panhard that Slee sells. If you don't want or need the adjustable then post up in the wanted section 'cause I am sure there are several of us with OEM panhards that we would be willing to sell.

(...later...)

OK, looked at the FSM and the rear lateral control arm is what we call the panhard. Simple procedure. Only SST is to remove and install new bushings if you need them. I am certain you can remove the bushings without any SST and you can probably install new bushings using a vise though I have not done that. I installed the Slee panhards and they come with bushings.

-B-

 

[CT Grillguy]

Thanks for the reply!

 

[Trailbus]

You might want a second person and/or a ratchet strap to move the truck left or right to get the bolt to line up(and be on level ground).

 

[CT Grillguy]

I am going to go ahead and admit that I am a total newbie to auto mechanics. There, I said it. My heart is in the right place, however and I really do want to learn.

This looks like something I might be able to do but I have some stupid questions. ( I know, there are no stupid questions, only stupid people).


1. I'd lift the truck, rear end and place on lifts.
2. Remove the rear wheel next to the connection on the axle.
3. Remove the bolts on the axle
4. Remove the bolts on the frame and remove old rod.
5. Attach new rod to frame
6. perhaps place jack under axle so that I can manuver the axle into place to attach new rod to axle.
7. and this is where I'm a bit fuzzy: the FSM states that I need to stabilize the axle before torquing the bolts. What would be the best way to do this?
8. How the heck do I use a torque wrench? This must be a stupid question, but I've never used one. How do I read the setting from the FSM and set the wrench?

Also, the FSM shows the person using two wrenches on the bolt/nut. How does that work, exactly? Just kind of a push/pull technique?

Really sorry to ask such basic questions, but I really do want to become a DIY'er and I gotta start somewhere.

 

[Photoman]

To distill the procedure down to the basics, you need to remove two nuts and bolts, pull the old arm off, maneuver the new rod into place and replace the nuts and bolts. The way you describe doing this is fine. If the axle moves a bit after removing the old control rod then use whatever means possible, like pry bar, raising or lowering the axle or straps to push/pull the axle to get the other bolt hole to line up. A line up pry bar is handy but not necessary. Grind a dull point on a metal rod if you need to make a quick one.
Stabilize the suspension by having the cruiser off any jacks and bounce it up and down a few times by jumping on the rear bumper and yelling YaHooooooo. Probably be best to put the tires back on before doing this too. j/k Then do the final bolt torque.
For tightening the bolt has to be held so the nut can be tightened so the bolt does not just spin. This can be done either using a wrench on the bold, or using a breaker bar with the appropriate socket. You can allow the wrench or breaker bar to spin until it hits something solid (not wiring or brake lines) allowing you to just concentrate on the nut.
There are different kinds of torque wrenches. Some have a click mechanism and some have a dial. On the click type a person just sets the required torque and turns the socket with the torque wrench until it the torque wrench clicks. On the dial type, the dial can be rotated initially (usually) to set the pointer to zero. Then the socket is turned with the torque wrench until the desired torque is reached by watching the scale. Or the dial can be set to the torque you want and then you just pull till it reads zero.
Since it looks like you are from the US we use ft-lbf here. So from the image Beowulf posted up it would be 130 and 180 ft-lbf of torque for the control rod bolts.
HTH

Bill

 

[OGBeno]

When I replaced my bushings on the panhards, I used a steel punch as a place holder to keep things aligned as I pushed the bolt through with a nice BFH.

Personally, use an air gun on this...that bolt just needs to be torqued down nice and tight.

 

[Beowulf]

Photoman described the process in more detail.

IIRC, I did not put my truck on jack stands or remove the wheels. I used a fairly heavy ratchet strap (~2" wide straps) and used that to help center the body over the axle and align the holes in the frame, the axle, and the panhard rod.

Bill described an alignment rod. It is used when you have the holes almost lined up. You shove the 'pointy' end into the hole in the bushing and into the hole in the frame, then use leverage to align everything before you stick in the big bolt.

You can rent or borrow a torque wrench. The bigger the better 'cause 181 ft/lbs is a good solid pull.

-B-

 

[CT Grillguy]

Thank you all very much. I appologize for not knowing to do a search on "panhard" because "rear lateral control rod" didn't come up with much. In any case, you all did contribute some great basic info for future aspiring DIY'ers.

Cheers.

P.S. an interesting side note: I see on your picture of the FSM (of a LC I assume) is on page SA-119. The page it is on in my LX450 FSM is SA-96....hmm.