Questions About Camber (1 Viewer)

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I was curious what everyone thought about what's considered ok Camber to run with. I did a lot of searching and couldn't find much, although I'm sure I missed something. Feel free to point me in the right direction.

I have 50mi on rebuilt front axles/hubs. I had it in for it's initial alignment to set the toe and to get the caster numbers so that I can order the correct new radius arms. Caster was well out after the lift as I expected. Lol. But the Camber was out a bit too. I'm new to solid axle trucks and just wanted to get a better understanding of where I should be ideally and what's "ok".

When the hubs were rebuilt, I left the shims on the trunnion bearings where they were (at least I think I did...). New trunnion bearings were installed as well.

IMG_1769.jpg


Thoughts?
 
I think you should get your caster corrected before you even think about the camber....
 
I think you should get your caster corrected before you even think about the camber....
As stated above: Alignment was done specifically to determine current Caster so that I can get the correct caster-correcting radius arms from @Delta VS .

While I'm waiting for those to arrive, I am looking at my Camber.
 
The camber is fixed (i.e. non adjustable).
When you rotate the caster back into spec, the camber will also change.
Re-check after caster correction. You're axel is 4 degrees the wrong side of center.
 
The camber is fixed (i.e. non adjustable).
When you rotate the caster back into spec, the camber will also change.
Re-check after caster correction. You're axel is 4 degrees the wrong side of center.
I will absolutely double check the camber after the caster is corrected. I wondered if it would change or not.

Well, I believe you can get camber correction trunnions bearings but I’m pretty sure those are for a whole degree of correction.

I had some notion in my head that trunnion shims came into play but I believe they’re only for preload adjustment.

Anyone have any input on what camber numbers are “acceptable”?
 
Here's the specs for 96-97 and how mine fell out the the Dobinson plates and the VT144/145 springs.

IMG_3780.JPG
 
I will absolutely double check the camber after the caster is corrected. I wondered if it would change or not.

Well, I believe you can get camber correction trunnions bearings but I’m pretty sure those are for a whole degree of correction.

I had some notion in my head that trunnion shims came into play but I believe they’re only for preload adjustment.

Anyone have any input on what camber numbers are “acceptable”?
The offset trunnion bearings can correct Camber only, Caster only, or some of both depending on rotative orientation. Its an offset hole in a round race.
 
I will absolutely double check the camber after the caster is corrected. I wondered if it would change or not.

Well, I believe you can get camber correction trunnions bearings but I’m pretty sure those are for a whole degree of correction.

I had some notion in my head that trunnion shims came into play but I believe they’re only for preload adjustment.

Anyone have any input on what camber numbers are “acceptable”?

The shims at the knuckle should stay as they are. They are there to locate/centre the knuckle so the axle comes in through the centre. If the shims are wrong, you can get premature axle seal failure.

Offset trunions bearings can be used to correct camber if a diff housing/ knuckle is slightly bent.

They can also be used to increase camber.

There's some cruiser people who will increase camber with 2⁰ offset bearings for big lifts and big tires to give a sharper more focused steering feel to compensate for the more vague steering feel you get with large tires.

I've not done it, but have thought i would try it next time I need to do a full knuckle job as I tend to push a vehicle harder than most when driving (well, harder than your typical soccer mum anyway :lol: )
 

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