Quarter panel replacement

[Roswell Rat]

It appears that the body tub on my 76 fj40 has "settled" over the years. Probably due the the rusty rear sill area, the weight of the spare tire over time, etc., etc. It looks like the tub sides have splayed outwards a degree or two. This is most noticeable at the gap between the tailgate and quarters. The gap grows slightly larger as it goes up. Today I received new CCOT quarters, and I want to square up the tub prior to welding in the quarters. Can anyone tell me the correct outside left-to-outside right dimension of the tub? Although I don't own a hard top at the present time, I would hate to go through all this and find out later that a hard top doesn't properly fit. I've looked in the chassis FSM but don't see this dimension given. I assume the rollcage will need to be removed, and then pull the tub in with large pipe clamps. Once square I can weld in some scrap angle to hold it in place.

Any thoughts from those who have done this before?

 

[amandap]

If you don't get actual dimensions here, might try asking the guys at CCOT. When repairing the sill and qtr panels on my 66, I just left the pipe clamps in place and all held well...one pushing one pulling. I used a level and carpenters square to square it all up and the hard top fits fine. However, I did have it there to double check. Looking back, I would not have paid that much for the CCOT sill. Although it is a great product, it still leaves the original mud catching channel to potentially rust out again. My first instinct (which I should have followed) was to use 3 x 3 angle iron taking darts out of the corners and putting sheetmetal over that. Way cheaper and nothing to catch mud. Body mounts could be some stout square stock of appropriate size. For body mounts I cheaped out and used square chunks of a half inch stall mat. Depends on if you're restoring or making it work and look good. Just another opinion.

 

[IDave]

Amanda, did you happen to take pictures of just how you did that? I have future plans of doing it myself, and am interested in seeing how others have accomplished it, but I'm a very visual person in understanding a process. Even though your description is fine, pics would be great.

 

[Poser]

Glad you recieved your quarters...


Good luck!

-Steve

 

[Roswell Rat]

Anybody willing to measure their tub?

 

[Travis_Kinney]

I'll measure my tub. I replaced rear quarters, wheel wells, all flooring and rocker panels. Had upright posts spring outward too. Also rear door uprights sprung out like yours. Used a piece of angle iron at right length and tack welded between tup rails.

 

[Travis_Kinney]

Between rear posts that doors bolt too is 41" and they are 14.25" tall. 59 1/2" between front posts.

 

[TexomaFJ40]

Roswell,

As you weld, the tub will have a natural tendency to bend inward, this is a good thing. Use YOUR hardtop for the upper measurements and a hdyr body spreader to push the body out to the correct specs.

 

[Travis_Kinney]

I don't think he has a hardtop to use as a guage, hence need of dimensions. I know all my posts sprung outward because it sat for over a month without any body panels to keep things aligned. Just sitting there and driving back and forth to the welders caused things to sag and spread. Even welding wouldn't close 1/2" gaps between new body panels and posts. Liek working on an old house, you just have to split he differences. We pulled things closer to spec with whacks from a mallet, vise grips etc. In the end, hardtop fits on great.

 

[Roswell Rat]

Thanks Travis.....those dimensions are exactly what I needed.