PSA: Potential Fix for UCA Failures

[HomersCanyonero]

I’ve seen a few reports in GXOR over on FB of aftermarket UCAs nut backing out and causing the wheel to fall off.

Everyone suspects that the nut wasn’t torqued to spec and it backed out when driving.

One recommendation for an easy fix is to add a second nut, add blue loctite, and torque to 85 lbf/ft.

I bought these Grade 8 9/16-18 rust-resistant nuts at home depot and blue loctite.

I’ve been off-roading for 5+ years with my TC UCAs and the shop torqued them right because I haven’t had any issues with the nut backing out.

So, I’m just going to add the new double nuts with blue loctite without removing the old nuts.

Just for peace of mind and cheap insurance!

Not mine, but this is the FB post that got me to install the jam nut with blue loctite.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Ran into two issues.

One is that I couldn’t fit my torque wrench and socket (either 7/8” or 22mm) into the space below the uca nut (too lazy to take tire out).

While tightening the second nut with my Knipex wrench, I noticed that the 2nd nut butts into the first nut pretty quickly.

Second issue, I don’t think you can torque to 85 lbf/ft the second nut. Am I nuts in thinking this?

 

[Rednexus]

Most upper ball joints should have a hole drilled thru the stud and utilize a castle nut with a cotter pin to prevent them from backing off.....I am surprised the TC ball joints don't have that. I agree that double-nuting it is a good idea in the absence of a cotter pin.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Most upper ball joints should have a hole drilled thru the stud and utilize a castle nut with a cotter pin to prevent them from backing off.....I am surprised the TC ball joints don't have that. I agree that double-nuting it is a good idea in the absence of a cotter pin.

Several aftermarket UCAs do not have a cotter pin. The failure in the picture I added was from icon uca without cotter pin.