Proper dyno procedure

[jfz80]

so a local shop opened up w/ free dyno testing and i wanted to get the 80 in now that is got the kazuma. Just looking for a baseline to compare the effectiveness of future mods to , as well as to satisfy my curiosity to what she's really got. i know its not going to be perfect as they dont have a 4 wheel hydroulic dyno; but i wanted to get some feedback and advice from this community verse they ricers at the shop.

My thoughts: remove front ds
lock ctr diff.
get on it

any others? cautions? or

anyone want to add thought as to what this test # would really equate to seeing as it wouldnt be accurate for the 4wd id be all ears. i searched w/ no luck but maybe someones got a link from mud or elsewhere

-jmf

 

[SUMOTOY]

so a local shop opened up w/ free dyno testing and i wanted to get the 80 in now that is got the kazuma. Just looking for a baseline to compare the effectiveness of future mods to , as well as to satisfy my curiosity to what she's really got. i know its not going to be perfect as they dont have a 4 wheel hydroulic dyno; but i wanted to get some feedback and advice from this community verse they ricers at the shop.

My thoughts: remove front ds
lock ctr diff.
get on it

any others? cautions? or

anyone want to add thought as to what this test # would really equate to seeing as it wouldnt be accurate for the 4wd id be all ears. i searched w/ no luck but maybe someones got a link from mud or elsewhere

-jmf

Jim,
I've removed rear driveshafts on audi quattros locked the center diff (per the owners manuals actually) and done fwd dyno runs, and the numbers are really close to awd dyno numbers usually within 10% IME. I would expect a (Drive Line Loss) DLL of ~15-20% with a front driveshaft removed on an 80 and ~25-27 DLL on an awd dyno.

As long as you do the same thing the next time you test a mod on the dyno, it's significant to your truck. Christo has a dyno chart on the SC vs turbo up here several places.

What might be nice to see is a full run thru the gears, as Christo's is only 3rd gear data.

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
94 FZJ80 Supercharged

 

[jfz80]

scott--

thanks for the info, and the mornings destraction. ( i think i just watched all the winter driving videos) Very cool stuff. ive seen christos charts before and are the primary fuel for the in-house debate b/w sc and turbo with my roomate. regardless i'm diggin' the sc and will see what they have to offer and post the results. have you dyno'd your 94, 2 or 4 wheel?

 

[SUMOTOY]

scott--

thanks for the info, and the mornings destraction. ( i think i just watched all the winter driving videos) Very cool stuff. ive seen christos charts before and are the primary fuel for the in-house debate b/w sc and turbo with my roomate. regardless i'm diggin' the sc and will see what they have to offer and post the results. have you dyno'd your 94, 2 or 4 wheel?

Jason (sorry), glad those videos are still up, Steamboat Ice Track is a yearly trek for me for over 10 years now. Regarding dyno-ing my 80... Not yet, but I have a awd dyno facillty 200 feet from my shop with plenty of tool loaning favors to call in. The problem I appear to have is a huge radiator fan auger problem at redline that makes me a bit gun shy to spew green juice all over my friends P-car shop floor.

Have you run yours to redline yet? What is your current rad fan setup? I'd probably do a hood up run if you can, or somehow get a fan to the air intake. pre SC intake air temps will massively affect your number IMO.

SJ

 

[Waggoner5]

I was at the dyno session with Christo and there were full pulls made through the gears, but what he was trying to establish was a baseline for the future turbo swap. The numbers were really low for the supercharger, like 160hp or so. The torque numbers were I believe in the 180ftlbs range. Keep in mind that this is with stock TRD boost levels and programming. The truck also had gears and 315s, so yours could be different. It could have been tweaked for more but sacrificing engine longevity/durability according to TRD.
It would be interesting to see a 2wd supercharged truck run and I see no reason that you could not do as you said and remove the front DS and lock the CDL. Post up after you get some numbers.
G

 

[pulse98]

Also, try to get the AF Ratio vs RPM on the dyno. The air temp and humidity should be on there already.

What type and brand of dyno is it?

 

[concretejungle]

turbo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[jfz80]

thanks guys---

i peeped the other night after hours but cant remember the brand. i believe it is a dynojet ##### but not sure, ill swing by tomorrow but wont have time to put it on the rack. go ahead and school me: whats the af ratio?

and whos this jim character.... just kidding i see the initials are a bit blurred. but its jason and i have not run it to redline at any point. Really havent romped on it off the line, only get into it while going (like when some tard cuts you off and you feel the need to prove a point). ive got a blue fan clutch and 3 core brass rad. so would it be fair to crack open the air can to allow more flow; nowing it will skew real world numbers. or maybee i just need to buy a snorkel ive got 285's and j's, stock gears, and the 3.0 pulley (5lbs i think)

well if you do spew the green then you could put red in there like its supposed to have.....

 

[dans67]

We have an AWD Dynoshop dyno at the shop, but I have never bothered to put mine on there. It always seemed silly for me, I never get it even close to the redline, if it hit's 4k there cause for alarm I guess. Maybe I should strap it on the machine one night and see what happnes. If there is enough demand though, I could probably set up a dyno day on a saturday at some point if there is any intrest. Not free, but sweet deals depending on the number of people,
Dan

 

[SUMOTOY]

Sorry Jason, my bad mobile screen, already corrected.

A/F ratio
Air Fuel Ratio, usually plottable with RPM HP/TQ data. Cking to see how lean the mix is during your run.

RE: Snorkel. That might give you colder air, I question if it's offset by more negative pressure at the SC inlet (vacuum vs ambient pressures at the inlet).

RE: Stock psi, you should see 6psi regularly working the motor, and peaks of 7 on occasion, btdt.

RE: Green vs Red. I don't buy the hype. Green has more worldwide miles than any other coolant. My truck came with it from the PO, I have no issues with it. And it's readily available on those spontaneous wrenchless preventive maintenance procedures.

SJ

 

[SUMOTOY]

We have an AWD Dynoshop dyno at the shop, but I have never bothered to put mine on there. It always seemed silly for me, I never get it even close to the redline, if it hit's 4k there cause for alarm I guess. Maybe I should strap it on the machine one night and see what happnes. If there is enough demand though, I could probably set up a dyno day on a saturday at some point if there is any intrest. Not free, but sweet deals depending on the number of people,
Dan

Dan:
Any data would be good. I know it isn't just 'throwing it on there' but even stock trucks would give us some good baselines. A dyno day? Even better.

Thanks for making that offer. Hope those close take you up on it.

SJ

 

[FaronF]

yes that's what I did

When I put the TRD blower on my 97 80 series, I removed the front drive shaft and locked the center diff for the before & after dyno runs.

IIRC the net increase was 80-some HP and 90-some lb/ft at the wheels. I miss that truck.

Faron