Prepping for a trip to Valley Hybrid and looking for knuckles and disc brake outters

Discussion in 'NV- Battle Born Cruisers of Northern Nevada' started by Tony_Farson, Nov 28, 2018.

  1. Tony_Farson

    Tony_Farson GOLD Star

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    Thanks @WILLD420 best advice ever! :) Georg did find me the outers to beef up steering and brakes up front for $300. I might do it and then stick to my simpler plan (get it road/trailworthy) which sound similar to what you just said. I have a LOT of other parts I need to get before I can get it running and driving and I don't want to sink it all into drivetrain, just where I will get the most bang for the least bucks.
     
  2. Tony_Farson

    Tony_Farson GOLD Star

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    Alright. I got the front outers for $300! I just gotta get through the snow to get them down in Grass Valley. I'll be dropping everything off at Georg's next week! Now I am prepping to order some other bigger ticket items. Rollcage w/seat cradles, gauges, and Atlas springs. Georg and Fernando (Atlas guy) will be talking next week to make sure everything lines up.

    I am going to do a 1" front axle push and George said a 1.5" push back in the rear will help keep everything centered under the wheel wells after the lift. Fernando mentioned cutting the rivets out of the rear back spring mounts and turn them around that I'll be able to fit springs that are 4" longer and that will provide me with more articulation and improved ride quality as well as better departure angle.

    I really want to keep the axles in the wheel wells and I don't want to have to cut my rear quarters/fenders (anymore than the PO already did). Has anyone seen the shock mount flip with longer springs setup on a 40? Does it look like a crawler? I really don't want to go that route on this build.
     
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  3. WILLD420

    WILLD420

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    Anytime you can do a longer spring by just doing rivets, you should, especially with it stripped bare like yours. Extending rearward isn't bad. I always thought cruisers looked like they were humped up when lifted. Pushing the front forward is good too. Keeps the tires out of the body. Just make sure you don't screw up the steering box and linkage angles. Lots going on up front when you change wheelbases.

    Make sure you do the Marlin or Trailgear inner axle seals. Pony up to ditch the factory front brake line setup so you don't have to crack the lines to fix a birfield. It's a not important, until it is, kinda thing.

    Talk to George about twin stick t-case. Having 2 low sounds like overkill till you are on slabs of rock but you want to creep along. Buy the t-case saver.

    For steering, 80 series ends keep it Toyota but they don't have the angularity capabilities that Chevy 1-ton stuff does. I think that is what kept braking Keith's Pittman arms. Same price when you are building from scratch.
     
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  4. Tony_Farson

    Tony_Farson GOLD Star

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    Thanks for all of that! I am in the midst of stripping point from the trouble spots and rear fender/quarters may end up needing full replacement. If that is the case, then cutting what I already have to make room for the rear axle push probably won’t bother me too much.

    I’ll ask Georg about the better seals and brake lines. I won’t have birfs though since I am going RCV.

    Georg is all for the twin stick. I am more interested in having a 2wd low or disengaging the rear axle in favor of full power to the front. However, I don’t recall if twin stick provides for that... I have been doing a lot of research on doubler setups for my Bronco too (just got an NP205!) so I might be mixing up what’s what. :confused:

    I am honestly not sure what I am doing about tie rods and ends yet. I already have the saginaw box and pump, u-joint drive shaft and ididit column though. I’ll let Georg do what he does with the rest. :) He doesn’t seemed concerned with binding or other issues with the axle push idea.
     
  5. WILLD420

    WILLD420

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    Pretty sure you can't do from digs with Toyota case, might be wrong.
     
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