Power Steering Pump replacement w/photos

Discussion in 'FJ Cruiser' started by BMThiker, Sep 30, 2013.

  1. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    This is something I've done before. The first time I rebuilt it with new seals/o-rings. This time I decided to go ahead and replace it. I was having problems with the power assist cutting out. First it was kind of random, sometimes at low RPMs (typical symptom), but other times it was at nominal RPMs (not so typical).

    So this is not a hard project, but I thought I would contribute a quick DIY thread with some quick photos of the process.

    Remove any skid plate you have under the engine bay and from below find the idler pulley on the spring loaded pivot (almost center of the engine block). With a 14mm socket and drive handle rotate the idler pulley CCW and use a small 3-4mm pin to hold the pulley in the "open" position. Remove the serp belt from the PS pump pulley. No need to pull the belt completely from the engine bay. Just tuck the PS pump loop down out of the way, while leaving the rest of the belt where it is.

    Pic#1 Ignore the wrench for a moment and concentrate on the hose and spring clamp to the left. A pair of needle nose pliers held alongside the hose work best for squeezing the clamp and sliding this hose off. Be prepared with an oil pan and possibly even a towel under the truck. I tried to use a hose clamp on this to prevent the drainage of PS fluid from the reservoir, but it didn't work. Probably best that I flushed the reservoir anyway.
    SteerPump2013-09 (1).jpg

    Pic #2 Using a 14mm wrench, remove this "banjo" fitting on top of the pump and place this out of the way. I was able to hang this slightly behind the pump allowing it to drip into my oil pan. If you let it hang down to the ground, you will drain most of the PS fluid from your steering rack, so try to avoid that.
    SteerPump2013-09 (2).jpg

    Pic #3 Now remove sensor wire from the top of the pump by squeezing the clip and gently lifting directly upward. Remove the wiring harness from the bracket. I squeezed the square black retainer clip and flicked it off the metal bracket with a screw driver. **The easier method would be to leave the plastic retainer alone and remove the 10mm bolt from the backside of the pump (ie, leave the retainer attached to the metal bracket). And also remove the ground wire, also a 10mm bolt.
    SteerPump2013-09 (3).jpg

    Pic #4 Remove the upper mounting bolt using 14mm deep socket inserted through the access holes in the pulley. It's a long bolt but only about 12-13 threads hold it in place.
    SteerPump2013-09 (4).jpg

    Pic #5 Remove the lower mounting bolt the same way as above. This is a much shorter bolt, but also has about 12 threads holding it.
    SteerPump2013-09 (5).jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013
  2. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    Pic #6 shows the new pump and the two mounting bolts. As noted above in pic #3, I unfastened the black retainer clip and wound up having to unbolt the metal bracket from the old pump anyway - since the new pump did not come with any bolts or the metal wiring harness bracket.

    SteerPump2013-09 (6).jpg

    The final procedure is to prime the new pump. Best thing to do is go ahead and get both front wheels off the ground. You'll want to be able to turn the steering wheel **without** the engine running and it is infinitely better to have the tires in the air when you do this.

    Top off your PS fluid reservoir to the upper cold temp line with good 'ol Dextron ATF. Then go turn your steering wheel back and forth from lock to lock several times. Check the level in the reservoir and add fluid as needed, careful not to overfill. Work the steering wheel back and forth a few more times and double check the fluid level again. Now turn the engine on and let it run for a few seconds without turning the wheel. Check your fluild level again. Then cycle the steering wheel several times. Check level again. It should be at the mid level of the cold temp scale. Now you're done.

    For anyone curious, this is what it looks like when you disassemble the pump for rebuild. Looks like a fancy pencil sharpener.

    PS Pump (2).jpg

    SteerPump2013-09 (6).jpg

    PS Pump (2).jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013
    firensteel likes this.
  3. Old Cruiser

    Old Cruiser

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    Very cool- I may be down this road sooner than later (lots of groaning under the hood when turning). Posted for reference
     
  4. NorthFJ

    NorthFJ

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    Nice job! Very nice detail.....my pump is good so far but I'm sure at some point I'll be back to this thread.
    :cheers:
     
  5. NateMob

    NateMob

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    What causes these pumps to cut out under load at low RPMs/idle? I have a friend @ToyotaColin with a 2010 FJC that we are thinking swapping the pump is the fix but dont want to be in the same situation in another couple years. Truck has ~65,000 miles on it. Any advantage to going to a full synthetic fluid or running a external steering cooler?

    Thank you.
     
  6. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    Could be contamination getting past the seals, not really sure. I haven't had any issues since this write up.
     
  7. firensteel

    firensteel

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    From the Blue Room and especially for post 2010 FJ's the best lube is Mobil 1 synthetic power steering fluid. For older FJ's drain and flush with synthetic fluid. Should make a difference and certainly improve longevity.
    133898-what-power-steering-fluid.html
     
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  8. lgrt

    lgrt

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    olddy but gooddy
     
  9. Estancio

    Estancio

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    Nice! Last summer I flushed the old steering fluid out of my 2008 and replaced with Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. I could not believe how dirty the old stuff was. Hope I did not wait too late before doing it. Could not find any mention of replacing power steering fluid in the FJ service manual. Yet another thing they forgot wears out.
     
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