Power lock actuator help please

[tbo_cruiser]

I have read several threads involving problems with the power locks. Typically the fix simply involves removing the entire lock mechanism, opening up the actuator and lubricating everything, then reinstalling.

For example, https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=147260&highlight=power+lock

In my new (to me) 97 LX, the rear hatch gate lock does not operate with the remote. I have to lock and unlock with the key. The previous threads usually involved the rear PS door, but I had thought this would be the same problem. I could hear the actuator operating when I clicked the remote, but the door would not lock or unlock.

Once the interior trim is removed from the rear gate the lock mechanism is pretty much exposed. In fact, the entire cover of the actuator is readily accessible, so I simply took out the six screws that hold the cover on so the motor and gears were exposed. I lubricated all the linkage connections for the lock mechanism and the gears in the actuator. I re-assembled and tried the remote, but the lock still does not operate.

When I lifted or depressed the lock button, the arm inside the actuator would move, so I knew that the linkage was not disconnected anywhere. Also, if I hit the remote the motor inside the actuator would operate, so it is not a bad motor. So, what is left to be wrong? It looks to me like the arm must not be properly positioned over the large gear that the motor worm gear drives, but it is hard to imagine how that could be unless some piece of it is broken, but I didn't see any loose pieces inside the actuator when I took the cover off.

The first attached picture is a close up of the actuator with the cover removed.

Second and third attached pictures show the actuator (taken from the side). In the first picture the lock button is pressed down, in the second the lock button had been lifted up.



Thanks,

Tim

 

[DasBeast]

Got the Rear Latch to work!

Tim,
I just did a fix that seems to be working. The plastic actuator arm that fits over the metal piece is knurled, along with the metal piece. The plastic piece is made with a split so it can easily fit over the metal piece, I guess. Over time, the plastic fatigues, the knurls aren't so knurly anymore so the friction is no longer there to move the parts. I took off the plastic piece, cleaned all the grease with rubbing alcohol and reassembled and it worked! For about 2 times. Then I took a very teeny, tiny zip tie, cut off the non-knurled (ribbed) end and placed it between the plastic and metal piece, running parallel to the metal piece. Trimmed it for re-assembly and now it is working. It needs some long term testing but it went through at least 20 test revolutions. Current results are no guarantee of future results.
DasBeast

 

[tbo_cruiser]

update

Das,

Thanks for the reply. I actually have been meaning to post an update on this for some time. I ended up taking the actuator apart and drilling a small hole through the plastic piece and through the metal piece. It was slow going and I stopped before I got all the way through. I drilled the hole so that I could insert a pin (actually a small brad that I cut to size). I oriented the hole so that the pin was inserted from above so that it would not fall out due to gravity.

I did this over a month ago and it is still working fine so I am guessing that it will be OK going forward.

Hope yours holds up well. If not, try this approach.

 

[smokingtires]

So I know that these plastic arms are common issues and I know I've seen other articles about this issue before but I can't find any of them. I lurk a lot but rarely post. Sorry to revive a super old thread.

I just don't know where the problematic plastic arm is. Is it in any of the above pictures? Again, sorry about the old thread. Please forgive my ignorance. Even a link to a better thread would be very helpful.