- Thread starter
- #41
And more, and more to come later.
Pistorman's 1970 FJ40 build
- Thread starter Pistorman
- Start date
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looking good man!
Hey d you have a close up of how you have the 3 on the tree shifting column secured into the turnsignal housing? Mine has a wimpy screw that pops out some times, curious to how it is supposed to be secured stock
Hey d you have a close up of how you have the 3 on the tree shifting column secured into the turnsignal housing? Mine has a wimpy screw that pops out some times, curious to how it is supposed to be secured stock
- Thread starter
- #43
I'll take pictures tonite and post them for ya!
- Thread starter
- #45
Thank you!
Looks awesome, man!!!
Love seeing the old ones restored.
Love seeing the old ones restored.
- Thread starter
- #47
thansk man
Looking awesome!!!
Destin,
Here's the pictures I took. Sorry Blackberry I left camera at home. I'll take more tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #48
Getting mudflaps installed, but I'm now realizing the driver side one is going to colide with the exhaust...
Looking good. Be careful with those mudflaps. Everytime you are backing up in brush or against a bolder it will push the flap against the tire and the tire will pull it down and bend the crap out of your mounting bracket or rip it right off.
Just finished wipping the drool off my computer! Sweet build.
Hole next to the clutch cylinder is for the wire loom electrics for the driver side lights. Mine has a plastic loom and a fairly large rubber gasket to keep everything centered and off the metal. I can take a picture if you need, for reference. Cheers.
- Thread starter
- #52
Thanks Pavie, I'd appreciate it!
here you go. Ignore the extra black wire, as it's for my aftermarket electric fan. I'm also missing my horn (which I removed to repair, and I have the alternator running on the driver side since I have a V8 engine in the bay. Not sure if alternator wiring would normally go across to the passenger side on a stock rig.
- Thread starter
- #55
I'm actually having the car restored in Dallas in body shop called Dallas Paint & Body [I don't vouch for its management nor recommend to work with them, decide carefully where you go and if you can supervise them, dishonesty is sadly too common in this industry]. Some body work was done by someone else in his house. He did rear sill, quarter panels, rear beds, wheel wells, support channels, floors.
As in anything, you have to help out supervising, planning and revising. You'll find out just how much you know about the car, even more so than shop owners. This forum is a true wealth in any restore.
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- Thread starter
- #56
Finished installing the footman loops, finished installing the soft top and now working on the hard top.
i see you tried to put the footman loops on the body the same height as the ones on the doors! ... not stock but still looks amazing!
- Thread starter
- #58
Everything is coming along, a little slower than I like, but its getting there. I pulled apart the heaters. Front was disassembled and taken to the powder coater. Rear... was toast. So I bought a newer one off eBay. As soon as it gets here its going to the powder coater as well.
Anybody want my ole rear heater? I doubt the core works. It didn't leak when I had it but I think it was because of all the muck there.
Same as to blower. One question do the 1970 blowers only have one speed? How do you switch the speeds? Thanks.
Anybody want my ole rear heater? I doubt the core works. It didn't leak when I had it but I think it was because of all the muck there.
Same as to blower. One question do the 1970 blowers only have one speed? How do you switch the speeds? Thanks.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2008
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- www.oregoncruisers.com
Thats a funky lookin rear heater!!!
Somewhere in that gunk is a resistor near where the power wires hooks up. Thats your hi/low.
Somewhere in that gunk is a resistor near where the power wires hooks up. Thats your hi/low.
- Thread starter
- #60
Its a disgusting rear heater.
Is there an actual switch to bring it to high or low?
Thanks!
