Old school....bring me up to date...CDL and Lockers (1 Viewer)

Joined
Aug 13, 2004
Messages
5,795
Location
Normandy Park Wa. ........now in San Diego Ca.
 
 
 
If you would please bring me up to date...I/we have had many cruisers
(14 I believe, counting the two in inventory) but they all have no-to low tech mostly 60s with a couple 40s thrown in here and there.
But we are now proud owners of a 1994 FZJ-80... cold rainy weather and baby girl have moved us into a creature comfort mobile.
Anyway......I have done some work on her over the last year, ARB bumper, 9k winch, 3" Ome lift, snorkle, con-ferr rack....
And now the crap I know NOTHING about...I did the pin 7 mod, put in a center diff. lock switch and she already had diff. locks....
The diff locks have flashed all the time when switch is engaged, and was unsure till today (playing in the snow) if they even work. Yes...we did go into a ditch trying to make enough room so someone could pass going the other direction..pretty cool...ended up in about a 20-25 deg. lean, stepped out the drivers door and was about 4' in the air...but got to watch all 4 wheels spin in the air.....High centered on the snow/ice:D so they must be working!!!!?!? 15 min w/ 9k winch and a kindly tree and we were back on all fours.
So.........now the questions
#1) When you press in the CDL and your dash says "power" what is happening?

#2) Where could the problem be in the system causing the Diff. lock lights to keep blinking? Where to start looking:confused:


Thanks all :beer:
 
Joined
Jan 11, 2005
Messages
561
Location
Poulsbo, WA
 
 
 
#1: The "Power" light should not turn on for the CDL. That green "power" is for your ECT - Electronically controled transmission. Changes the shift points higher (good for towing) So I don't know if the harness connection is the same or not, but it sounds like the CDL and the ECT buttons are switched? When the CDL is engaged you'll see the ABS (if you have it) light come on and a another locker light (I forget what it looks like)

#2) If the diff locks have not been used in a while then they take some time to engage. Also, you have to be in LOW i believe for them to engage as well. And.. correct me someone if I am wrong, but the CDL has to lock first as well.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2003
Messages
6,045
Location
Dixie co. Florida
 
1 you should get the ABS light and the CDl locked light, the CDl locked light is a outline of the driveline and wheels with a bubble in the middle, in yellow, the front and rear lockers are similar but are red and the bubble is in the front or rear of the outline

2. The center locker must be engaged before the front or rear lockers will engage, they will still blink when selected but will not engage without the CDL. If you have done the Pin 7 mod then the CDL will not engage with low range, it will only lock with the CDL switch.

I would start with the CDL and figure out why it is not locking (or not being reported as locked when it is) you cannot really troubleshoot or even tell if you have a problem with the front and rear lockers without a fully functional CDL

There are some very detailed threads on troubleshooting all of this.
 
Joined
Oct 2, 2004
Messages
268
Location
Okanagan Valley, BC
The CDL has to be on for the FR/RR diff locks to work. If you turn the diff locks knob with the CDL off the lights will just blink; they are not being allowed to engage. Even if your CDL is engaged and you hit the Diff LOcks button it can take a while for the locks to engage. Keep turning in one direction in a snow/gravel lot so they can click in.

However, since you say the "power" light comes on when you hit your CDL switch there would appear to be a wiring issue. If, in fact, your CDL switch is turning on "power" shift in transmission and not your CDL it follows that your front/rear diff locks would not work (as they shouldn't if your CDL is not engaged).

I wonder if your CDL is working/wired correctly with the switch. Perhaps do a test. In high range with CDL switch on turn a couple of corners in gravel/sand/snow. The vehicle should lurch/wheels bind as they try to turn the same speed - like what your 60s would do. If this is not occurring it would appear you are still in AWD where your viscous coupling is still being allowed to work.

Cheers.
 

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