OK, Here we go again!

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Prophecy

Prophecy

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Mar 13, 2007
Threads
35
Messages
324
Location
Wichita, Ks.
OK well here it goes!

I am kinda stuck right now with my rig. I am wanting to make sure my rig is as solid (reliable) as possible. I currently have this going on with my vehicle. Granted all listed does not institute reliability but am just wanting to give you an idea of where I am currently at. Since alot has changed since the last time anyone here has seen my rig.

I guess my big question is where from this point forward should I be concentrating the majority of any further money towards? I just want to keep the truck in as good of mechanical shape as possible. (and plz no park it and never drive it responses plz.) :flipoff2:

1997 LX450 160k+
Items done in the last 1 - 2 years -

new front wheel bearings
all new U-joints
complete fluid changes all around
upgraded brakes
35" mtz's (5)
arb front bumper
12k tabor winch
IPF 100w front lights
rear drawers
extended brake lines
2" bump stops
front swaybar drop brackets
new belts
J's front
Heavies rear
L shocks
cb radio
1200/2400w cobra power inverter
dual batteries
aftermarket sound system
removal of factory power antenna to whip
Rhino lined bottom half of truck
Custom sliders
new plug wires and plugs
washer bottle reloc. kit
customed exhaust

Things owned/being shipped shortly, waiting to get installed -

1" bodylift
new main crank seal
new distributor o-ring/seal
arb lockers front and rear with large compressor
3 gallon air tank / distribution point for compressor (to run airtools)
3rd battery in rear of vehicle
XS intercooler, Turbo manifold (waiting to be able to afford the rest of the system, plus time to break the truck down for a couple weeks, possible engine rebuild after the summer)

Things I am not sure about -

Anything with the front end (birfs) 160k maybe never been done?
Front end seals (things that should be done maybe when lockers installed?)
Not really up on a gear change (going Turbo after the summer)
7 pin mod?

Any help would be grealty appreciated, as I said I see others rigs and I can buy all the bolt on stuff there is, but the things most people don't advertise about is the stuff they are doing in the background. Normal repairs and such that I may be overlooking or that I am flat out neglecting. :doh:

Jeremy
 
Here's a few suggestions based on 11 years of ownership:

Drop brackets for the rear swaybar (saw the front, but not the rear)
Rear bumper - factory one doesn't offer much protection
Pin 7 mod - highly recommended
PHH - if not already done
Headgasket before you add the turbo would be highly recommended

If the birfs aren't making any noise, they're probably fine. You can do a repack when you do the ARBs, cause you'll have them out anyways (be sure to repack the rear wheel bearings as well).

I'd recommend regearing as well. With a turbo, you won't need it for power, but they will make trail crawling a lot easier, especially if you're running 35s. If you do it when you do the ARBs, it's only about $200 more per diff.
 
Thanks Bob for the response.

Drop brackets for the rear swaybar (saw the front, but not the rear)

The rears havnt been done cause Christo said I wasnt tall enough to put them on, and he would suggest aginst it. (If you have a different opinion I would be happy to listen)

Rear bumper - factory one doesn't offer much protection

rear bumper is probably going to be a custom project. Want to try to make one. Seen alot of cool ideas and would like to try to implement alot of them.

Pin 7 mod - highly recommended

Dont really understand this one, read about it but dont really comprehend the benefits.

PHH - if not already done

Don't understand this one.... Could you please explain?

Headgasket before you add the turbo would be highly recommended

Re-building engine before turbo, this summer, waiting on that before turbo goes on.

If the birfs aren't making any noise, they're probably fine. You can do a repack when you do the ARBs, cause you'll have them out anyways (be sure to repack the rear wheel bearings as well).

Thank you very much on this one, very good idea, was worried about this one quite a bit. Also planning on replacing all wheelbearings when I do them. Fronts are about 2 years old, but the rears have never been touched by me.

I'd recommend regearing as well. With a turbo, you won't need it for power, but they will make trail crawling a lot easier, especially if you're running 35s. If you do it when you do the ARBs, it's only about $200 more per diff.

What gears would be recommended? I am running 315/75/16 MT MTZ (34.7') right now, but would like to go to some 36's probably in the near future (6-12 months). Unless someone wants to buy my (5) 35's (4) about 70-80% tread (1) brand new. ;)

Once again I appreciate your advice.

Thank you,
Jeremy
 
Last edited:
Pin 7 mod - highly recommended

Don't really understand this one, read about it but dont really comprehend the benefits.

When incorporated with a CDL switch allows you to select 4WD in high range or use low range without 4WD, neither of which are possible as Toyota delivered '93+ trucks. As your truck is now the orange diff lock light will only illuminate when the high/low lever is pulled into low.
PHH - if not already done

Don't understand this one.... Could you please explain?

Pesky heater hose - if you have a failure here it will be messy and potentially expensive depending on when the 4' section of hose lets go. It's a PITA due to the location unless you have a body lift or the head off. If you're planning on pulling the engine this year change it then the access will be much easier.

I'd recommend regearing as well. With a turbo, you won't need it for power, but they will make trail crawling a lot easier, especially if you're running 35s. If you do it when you do the ARBs, it's only about $200 more per diff.

What gears would be recommended? I am running 315/75/16 MT MTZ (34.7') right now, but would like to go to some 36's probably in the near future (6-12 months). Unless someone wants to buy my (5) 35's (4) about 70-80% tread (1) brand new. ;)

4.88 gears have been decent for the 315s and good on the trail with the 36s. With the 315s the engine will spin a little faster because the tires are slightly smaller relatively speaking than stock 31s and 4.11 gearing. They are spot on with 36s. If you're planning on going with the turbo, 4.88 gears would likely be perfect if you plan to run 36 or 37s because the combination will help make up for the additional drag of the lift and weight of all the protection and gear.

If you need a hand or want to look at something on my beat up truck give me a ring.

K
 
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