I am interested in the Konis, but there’s no real support in USA for them. What type of valving does Koni use, linear or digressive. Are this rebuildable, or throwaway? What springs work with these if wanting lift and to carry add’l weight?
Official Koni 90 "RAID" Thread
- Thread starter arich
- Start date
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Recently, I saw on YouTube a shop that now carries Koni in the US and they are making instructional videos.
One reason I got ‘em is because they are rebuildable.
I tried using OME springs with Koni but for some reason the 90-series Raid shocks don’t fit inside OME front coils. Even the stock shocks don’t fit. They probably made it specifically for their Nitrocharged shocks.
I use Kings springs.
Do you have any links to those videos? Thanks…
After a few visits to my trusted shop and a lot of trial and error, I finally got to set my 90-series dampers to my desired settings. I have the Kings comfort springs on all corners. (KTFR-130T for the fronts and KTRR-131H for the rears). The vehicle is bonestock.
The problem in the beginning was the dampers were doing next to nothing during rebound because it was set to 0° (out-of-box setting). Springs were so fast going back up that the ride is jittery. It is really bad on our patched up, pothole-filled roads.
Then, I set all shocks with two half-turns. It was night and day. The vehicle is more controlled and the pogo-stick-like ride was gone. (This setting will be great, if you drive on well-maintained roads). However, the rear felt a little bit jumpy still on my country’s roads. So, I added another half turn to the rears.
Then, the rears became too slow to rebound. Potholes and driveways literally felt you’re being dropped into your seat. On the highway, imperfections were felt through the cabin and made the rear unpredictable too. So, I set them back a quarter of a turn.
The ride feels great now. It became really smooth and comfortable. The whole vehicle on the freeway driving at cruising speeds, the car felt more in contact to the road. While the drive on really bad roads became more comfortable too as it smoothen out all imperfections.
The problem in the beginning was the dampers were doing next to nothing during rebound because it was set to 0° (out-of-box setting). Springs were so fast going back up that the ride is jittery. It is really bad on our patched up, pothole-filled roads.
Then, I set all shocks with two half-turns. It was night and day. The vehicle is more controlled and the pogo-stick-like ride was gone. (This setting will be great, if you drive on well-maintained roads). However, the rear felt a little bit jumpy still on my country’s roads. So, I added another half turn to the rears.
Then, the rears became too slow to rebound. Potholes and driveways literally felt you’re being dropped into your seat. On the highway, imperfections were felt through the cabin and made the rear unpredictable too. So, I set them back a quarter of a turn.
The ride feels great now. It became really smooth and comfortable. The whole vehicle on the freeway driving at cruising speeds, the car felt more in contact to the road. While the drive on really bad roads became more comfortable too as it smoothen out all imperfections.
- Thread starter
- #25
So you're 360 degrees in the front and 270 in the rear?
Anthony
No. Sorry. Lemme clear it up. It’s 360° for the front shocks and 450° for the rear shocks.
2011 200 series: I just finished the rear Koni 90's. Removed bilstein 4600s with 68,000. Do not do this job without a gear wrenchs 22mm or 7/8 for removal of Bilsteins and a 15/16 for install of Koni's 90's you also need allen wrench to fit in the top of the shaft. I've had the rears on for about 400 miles and I set mine at just 180 degrees. Not too firm for me, but any more would be. I drive on pot holed roads and curvey mountains. fronts go on next week
IME with Koni's, only adjust them "stiffer" as they age.
I don't know if anyone has attempted the front struts/coil overs. The haynes manuel says disconnect the top control arm ball joint and the shock will come out. It did not work for me. My thoughts are to remove the two big bolts holding the lower control arm ball joint to the spindle, the sway bar link then the bolts holding the coilover. Address the KDSS relief screws too. I broke my front axel trying to lever out the coilover. My axel was rusted into the hub: maybe if I had loosened the hub nut and it was not rusted it would of not broken. The other side is going to be done by a much younger, bigger, and more experienced Tech. My side hurts from the levering out. Koni 88s up front 90's in rear. 3 out of 4 done.
Why 88’s on the front?
88s and 90s almost identical except for oil capacity. The 90's may actually be too much for the way I drive. I put them in the back because I do load up from time to time (set at 180 ). I had contacted Koni about the combo and they saw zero problems with the combination of 88s and 90s. Brian Jowett cut me a fair price on his last set. I could not pass up the price: especially after Koni's confirmation. I do not do Baja style driving or rocks. I'll reply after my hunting trip at the end of October as to how they did on a 3500 mile trip.
I am very interested in this setup, however having some difficulties finding the right parts. Can someone please provide the part# or other tips to replicate this setup with the King "lowering" springs?
try, shop.koni-na.com
note:
when I installed the front Koni's I damaged the front upper ball joints and replaced them with 555s from Cruiser Teq (great experience) which lead me to try and just replace the lower ball joints. Ended up having to sawzall out both lower control arms took me about 10 days to replace them (I spent way too much time trying to save the control arms). Now have Koni's with rebuilt front end (sway bar links, lower control arm, upper ball joints, tie rod ends) and it drives fantastic. Hard to believe it's coming up to 200,000 miles.
note:
when I installed the front Koni's I damaged the front upper ball joints and replaced them with 555s from Cruiser Teq (great experience) which lead me to try and just replace the lower ball joints. Ended up having to sawzall out both lower control arms took me about 10 days to replace them (I spent way too much time trying to save the control arms). Now have Koni's with rebuilt front end (sway bar links, lower control arm, upper ball joints, tie rod ends) and it drives fantastic. Hard to believe it's coming up to 200,000 miles.
Thank you for this, very helpful. By chance does anyone have some intel on the King "lowering" springs? Can't seem to locate those anywhere.
Front: KTFL-130K
Rear: KTRL-131
They have additional options if you use the King Springs Australia website, https://kingsprings.com.au/. The challenge is getting them stateside, you’ll likely have to find find a vendor in AUS that is willing to ship. I’m also seeing those part #s listed as out of stock on some websites.
Thank you - was able to source from King directly, they will ship to US.
Very cool, I didn’t realize that! I had their lifted progressive springs along with the Koni Raid 90s on my prior truck. It was a good setup and I’d totally do it again.
Hi..I've been following this thread and I'm very interested in putting Koni Raid 90's on my stock LC to reduce nose diving and body roll. Most of my driving these days is city and highway with occasional hunting and fishing trips on backroads. I don't want to really add lift but I'd like suggestions on spacers and springs also that will provide similar comfort to OEM but help out when I tow my side by side or trailer. Lastly, which vendor should I talk to since these Koni's are hard to find. Thanks in advance.
I am in the same boat as you except I currently have OME nitro with OME "no lift" springs. I am really satisfied with the ride however the OME no lift is actually 2" (at least) lift and I'm having problems with alignment and finding a parking garage that can manage the new height. And quite frankly I don't like the looks with stock tires. Will switch now to Koni 90 and the King "lowering springs", all based on the old threads from Arich. I wish he was still around I don't see him post anymore, but he seemed satisfied with the setup and I like the looks of his rig. Stock height would be fine too however don't see that option with King Spring. I bought Koni from Koni na website, King Spring directly through King in Australia. Hopefully other respond, jimoldguy seems like he has recent experience.
