Odd Issue - Vibration Drivers side turning right.

[blackohio]

Ok, so obvious is check wheel bearing and axles foir binding.

This only happens when turning right and accelerating.
GX has a 3" Icon CDCV
Dobinsons Billet UCA (set to 39mm and spacer at front)
Super Pro +2 LCA
Dobinsons diffdrop
2 new SCVJ Moderate Angle CV's (OEM upgrades)
No sway bar front
New Tie Rods / Power Steering Rack

This week I did:
Swapped undriven spare to front drivers as the outer tread blocks were a chunking a bit.
Thinking it was the outer CV binding I ordered a new SVJ axle and swapped it. Noise / Shudder still happens
Aside from the right turning shudder it drives perfect. Turning left results in zero issues.

It really feels like the outer CV on the right is binding. Since I have the +2 LCA's should we adjust the LCA out a bit? In the pics attacxhed the eccentrics are not the same, I didnt take pics of the front and rear of each but you can see the drivers is centered while the passenger is turned inward.

Could small difference could be putting the CV as a more pronounced angle on the drivers side and causing it to bind a bit? Im a little stumped as alignment is really good, but could it be causing my shudder / noise?

 

[Ignignot]

Are you letting the CVs break in before stressing them? Ive learned from racing wheel bearings and cvs need to get babied until they heat up and the grease has a chance to spread out

 

[Rednexus]

I'd be surprised if it is the CVs. As long as those are an OEM-Toyota based CV, they are quite robust and can handle large angles. I'm up 3" with no diff drop on 19-year old original CVs and have never experienced any binding.

I'd poke around under the rig and see if your tires are rubbing somewhere. For example my PS front tire rubs slightly on the frame at full lock/turning right while the DS does not. Having as much adjustability as you do is nice but may inadvertently put one of the wheels in a local where it starts rubbing things.

 

[blackohio]

Are you letting the CVs break in before stressing them? Ive learned from racing wheel bearings and cvs need to get babied until they heat up and the grease has a chance to spread out

original CV and new one both do it.

 

[blackohio]

I'd be surprised if it is the CVs. As long as those are an OEM-Toyota based CV, they are quite robust and can handle large angles. I'm up 3" with no diff drop on 19-year old original CVs and have never experienced any binding.

I'd poke around under the rig and see if your tires are rubbing somewhere. For example my PS front tire rubs slightly on the frame at full lock/turning right while the DS does not. Having as much adjustability as you do is nice but may inadvertently put one of the wheels in a local where it starts rubbing things.

No rubbing anywhere, drivers or passenger (also have cab mount chop and flattend cab seams.

 

[blackohio]

Also double checked both inner UCA's are set to the 39mm spacing Dobinsons recommends.

Im thinking that maybe the inner eccentric bolts were adjusted to make the alignment work and the fact that the drivers is centered is compressing the CV just enough that under body roll turning right causes it to bind a bit, thus both CV's (new and old) doing it still.

Im kinda thinking this all started adfter the 2nd P/S rack we put in (first leaked) and maybe we need to set both LCA's inward and ajusted tie rods out from there.

 

[Rednexus]

Also double checked both inner UCA's are set to the 39mm spacing Dobinsons recommends.

Im thinking that maybe the inner eccentric bolts were adjusted to make the alignment work and the fact that the drivers is centered is compressing the CV just enough that under body roll turning right causes it to bind a bit, thus both CV's (new and old) doing it still.

Im kinda thinking this all started adfter the 2nd P/S rack we put in (first leaked) and maybe we need to set both LCA's inward and ajusted tie rods out from there.

To verify that you could put the rig on jackstands, remove the offending wheel, turn to full right, and rotate the CV to see if you feel any biding. Again, I would be quite surprised if that is the problem unless it's related to aftermarket CVs. OE Toyota CVs can handle a lot of flex, if they are binding it would usually be the inner joint under a full-droop situation, rather than the outer joint under normal driving/turning.

 

[blackohio]

To verify that you could put the rig on jackstands, remove the offending wheel, turn to full right, and rotate the CV to see if you feel any biding. Again, I would be quite surprised if that is the problem unless it's related to aftermarket CVs. OE Toyota CVs can handle a lot of flex, if they are binding it would usually be the inner joint under a full-droop situation, rather than the outer joint under normal driving/turning.

Both CV's are OEM Toyota, just built by CVJ ( I kept saying SVJ earlier) It's just super odd that the noise / shudder is coming from the drivers side and only when turning right and giving it gas.If I roll through a right turn almost very perceivable noise / shudder.

 

[blackohio]

To verify that you could put the rig on jackstands, remove the offending wheel, turn to full right, and rotate the CV to see if you feel any biding. Again, I would be quite surprised if that is the problem unless it's related to aftermarket CVs. OE Toyota CVs can handle a lot of flex, if they are binding it would usually be the inner joint under a full-droop situation, rather than the outer joint under normal driving/turning.

Only thing I can think of as a possible cause to this is both eccentric bolts on the lowers on passenger side are turned inward (ie large lobe is facing outward, they're like at 7pm (the bolt heads with lobe center at like 1pm)

Drivers side front cam bolt is at the same 7/1pm ish position and the rear cam bolt is at 6mp/12. So the rear of the LCA is a hair bit more inward. When turning right that would exaggerate the angle the outer CV is at

 

[Rednexus]

If binding is indeed the problem, you'll know for sure as you'll feel the binding when you replicate the problem by turning the CV with the rig up in the air. If it turns freely, the problem is something else.

 

[blackohio]

If binding is indeed the problem, you'll know for sure as you'll feel the binding when you replicate the problem by turning the CV with the rig up in the air. If it turns freely, the problem is something else.

It has to be, I cannot think of a single other issue that would cause it. Zero issues when driving or turning left (left would cause the drives side to lift, extending the joint a bit and reliving the angle (my theory at least) Turning right while not giving it gas (minimal body roll to drivers side) zero issue, but once I gas it and the truck rolls a bit more on hard turns and binding. Mind you this only occurs on like 90º corners where acceleration happens(ie turning onto a freeway ramp for instance)

Im not gonna **** with it, Just trying to make sure my heads in the right place. When I had a local shop do the P/S rack, we discovered the LCA bushings were bad at the same time so I just had them do that since they were there. I told them i'd bring it back Tuesday for them to go over it again. I've double checked my work for UCA's and all other stuff and everything is as it should be.

I just cannot think of a reason why the lower camber / eccentrics would be out of phase with eachother, this would push the angle of the LCA off and additionally stress the bushings in the LCA's.

First image drivers rear, second drivers front, third passenger rear and fourth passenger front