NP203 doubler disadvantages? (1 Viewer)

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DesertLake

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Anybody here have experience with 203 doublers?

For the 55 project I've been looking at adapter and doubler options between the NV4500(5.61 version) and the LC tcase, and it looks like an NP203 + AA adapter only adds about an inch more of drivetrain length than the straight through AA NV4500-Tcase adapter. NP203 option costs at least $200 more by my optimistic math, which would include a little work on the 203 to bolt it directly to the 4500. I plan to wind up on 60/62 series axles, 35" tires max. Maybe 4.56s, I like where that combination puts my final drive ratios on the street.

Do I need the extra gears out of the 203? Probably not...yet it seems a shame to use up all that space with a simple adapter shaft. In terms of gearing I could put in a 3:1 orion and probably be perfectly happy - I'd have twice the gearing spread that I do now with the 4 speed. If I use the doubler I'm probably gonna break something...

Other disadvantages? C'mon, somebody talk me out of this.

:hmm:
 
Anybody here have experience with 203 doublers?

For the 55 project I've been looking at adapter and doubler options between the NV4500(5.61 version) and the LC tcase, and it looks like an NP203 + AA adapter only adds about an inch more of drivetrain length than the straight through AA NV4500-Tcase adapter. NP203 option costs at least $200 more by my optimistic math, which would include a little work on the 203 to bolt it directly to the 4500. I plan to wind up on 60/62 series axles, 35" tires max. Maybe 4.56s, I like where that combination puts my final drive ratios on the street.

Do I need the extra gears out of the 203? Probably not...yet it seems a shame to use up all that space with a simple adapter shaft. In terms of gearing I could put in a 3:1 orion and probably be perfectly happy - I'd have twice the gearing spread that I do now with the 4 speed. If I use the doubler I'm probably gonna break something...

Other disadvantages? C'mon, somebody talk me out of this.

:hmm:

None, do it.:grinpimp:

Jack
 
I have NO experience with it YET, but Ill be running it within the next year!
I cant wait!
Theyre so cheap, and durable, its kinda hard to argue against it. Junk the chain drive box, and use the gears, mate that bitch up and roll it.
I dont figure you to be a throttle junkie...even with the stupid low gearing, if youre NOT mashing on the gas, your gear should hold up pretty well. Any plans for Longfields though?

K
 
Sooner or later I guess I will. So let's say I've got the longfields and my right foot develops a twitch. What part breaks first?
 
Sooner or later I guess I will. So let's say I've got the longfields and my right foot develops a twitch. What part breaks first?

Well, if youre SOA'd and you DONT have a wrap bar, it will most likely be your rear diff.

Ask RustyDan about that one!:rolleyes:

Beyond that, Id have to guess your rear axels would be next in line or possibly your rear shaft (though less likely).
If you have a good wrap bar in place, then Id have to say the axles (rear) then.

I forget, are you gonna do the SOA on your rig?

K
 
That's still an open question. I may swap axles and keep the springs and 31s for a while, just to get it done and driveable. I started out only doing the body work, but at some point decided the drivetrain swap was going to require enough sheetmetal work to justify doing it at the same time...
 
The stock birfs can last a long time if you aren't locked, in the rocks with big tires. Once you start playing and have the above ingredients, then you have to start worrying. Other than that, the rest of the drivetrain should be fine, unless like Keith said, you are SOA with no wrap bar.

Now keep in mind that some people can break a sledgehammer in a sandbox, so yeah anything is breakable. I have always been a "finesse" wheeler, so with all of my trail running, I have never broke anything offroad.

Jack
 
Jack, that is one of the most brilliant one liners ever.

Okay then, another n00b question - does the front also need a wrap bar, and if not, why not?
 
The answer is NO!
Im not 100% sure as to why, but I suspect that it is because most of the raw torque is at the rear, and not at the front.
Anyway...I have never seen any type of anti wrap contraptions on the front end, BARRING coil sprung rigs.
On my rig, I ran for 2 years with the 35's locked rear and open front on the stock birfs and axels and have not (knock on wood) broken anything. I did bust my pittman arm, but that had nothing to do with the set up.
That being said...I too am very easy on my rig and strive to finesse over obstacles and stay off the throttle.

Im allergic to breaking stuff.:p

K
 
The answer is NO!
Im not 100% sure as to why, but I suspect that it is because most of the raw torque is at the rear, and not at the front.
Anyway...I have never seen any type of anti wrap contraptions on the front end, BARRING coil sprung rigs.
On my rig, I ran for 2 years with the 35's locked rear and open front on the stock birfs and axels and have not (knock on wood) broken anything. I did bust my pittman arm, but that had nothing to do with the set up.
That being said...I too am very easy on my rig and strive to finesse over obstacles and stay off the throttle.

Im allergic to breaking stuff.:p

K

Seems to me it doesn't wrap like that because the front is pulling and the rear is pushing, if that makes sense. Sometimes you see the front hopping around a bit, but no wrap at the pinion really.

Definately wanna go with Longs though, it's a peace of mine kind of thing.....although it will still be a little sketchy with me, I'm picking up my 42 TSL's on Saturday....:grinpimp:
 
To state it a little more clearly.
In a climb or under acceleration the weight of the vehicle is transfered to the rear axle creating more traction. More traction=more wrap.

Going down hill gravity is on your side so you aren't applying power in most cases, so no wrap issues.

The only potential situation that could cause damage would be trying to reverse up a steep ledge, so don't do that. :hillbilly:
 
To state it a little more clearly.
In a climb or under acceleration the weight of the vehicle is transfered to the rear axle creating more traction. More traction=more wrap.

Going down hill gravity is on your side so you aren't applying power in most cases, so no wrap issues.

The only potential situation that could cause damage would be trying to reverse up a steep ledge, so don't do that. :hillbilly:

Ah. About 15 years ago I recovered some stoned kids in someone's dad's 60 out on the coast by strapping my front hooks to their rear axle and slamming backwards up a hill until their tire popped out of the rut. Don't do this again, eh? :hillbilly::hillbilly:
 
i say DO IT! im also looking to do the 203 somwere down the line, also dr smash and others actually do have wrap bars on the front and are on leafs :grinpimp:
 
Ah. About 15 years ago I recovered some stoned kids in someone's dad's 60 out on the coast by strapping my front hooks to their rear axle and slamming backwards up a hill until their tire popped out of the rut. Don't do this again, eh? :hillbilly::hillbilly:
Not with an SOA.
 

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