No start after overhaul (1 Viewer)

[florida95fzj]

Hello,

My 1995 LC80 ran before I started several different jobs. Currently, it will crank but not fire. The CEL bulb has power and everything else seems to have power. I've tested the grounds I disconnected for continuity.

One of the jobs was the distributor o-ring and I thought I may have been 180 degrees off from TDC. I rotated the harmonic balancer and re-installed the distributor. No luck.

One problem is that I changed a number of things: new distributor cap/rotor, new wires, new spark plugs, new alternator, new fusible link, and removed the battery to do the radiator / oil pump gasket / fix the power steering leaks.

I had the battery wires bundled together and they all came apart afterwards. I have 1 ground wire from the battery to the fender and the larger wire also on the negative terminal. I've checked the electrical service manual and I think I am good now.

Is it correct that the next step is to figure out if I actually have spark? Or is there something else I have missed? I've been through a number of threads but most of them have no CEL / ECU power and I don't have that problem.

Thanks

 

[tlc1995]

Do You have gas in the truck? Not being an ass just trying to help

 

[florida95fzj]

Do You have gas in the truck? Not being an ass just trying to help

Yeah, I had a full tank. Also should have mentioned I didn't mess with the fuel system.

Appreciate the help. I will check to make sure someone didn't steal all of the fuel out of the tank given the gas prices lately.

 

[BILT4ME]

Hello,

My 1995 LC80 ran before I started several different jobs. Currently, it will crank but not fire. The CEL bulb has power and everything else seems to have power. I've tested the grounds I disconnected for continuity.

One of the jobs was the distributor o-ring and I thought I may have been 180 degrees off from TDC. I rotated the harmonic balancer and re-installed the distributor. No luck.

One problem is that I changed a number of things: new distributor cap/rotor, new wires, new spark plugs, new alternator, new fusible link, and removed the battery to do the radiator / oil pump gasket / fix the power steering leaks.

I had the battery wires bundled together and they all came apart afterwards. I have 1 ground wire from the battery to the fender and the larger wire also on the negative terminal. I've checked the electrical service manual and I think I am good now.

Is it correct that the next step is to figure out if I actually have spark? Or is there something else I have missed? I've been through a number of threads but most of them have no CEL / ECU power and I don't have that problem.

Thanks

You said the CEL bulb has power.

Is it lighted with key on, in RUN position?

 

[Spdstr280Z]

My very similar issue was the distributor connector. Check for broken wires there.

Good luck,

Jason

 

[florida95fzj]

You said the CEL bulb has power.

Is it lighted with key on, in RUN position?

Yes it lights up in RUN.

My very similar issue was the distributor connector. Check for broken wires there.

Good luck,

Jason

Mine broke when removing it and I replaced it. The new one seems to make a firm connection.

I will look for the connector diagram to be sure I don't have the wires backwards / upside down. The end of the wire were in good shape but I might need to test continuity from the ECU, where I think all four wires go. Edit: confirmed the wires are not backwards.

 

[florida95fzj]

Does anyone recall if this button and spring is pre-installed inside the cap? I don't remember ever seeing this.

 

[BILT4ME]

Does anyone recall if this button and spring is pre-installed inside the cap? I don't remember ever seeing this.

View attachment 2964414

Yes they are pre-installed inside the distributor cap.

 

[sedonut]

Check for spark. I changed an engine and there was a wire to the coil that was not connected. It took a long time to diagnose.

 

[subzali]

Are you sure the distributor is in the right place? You seemed a little unsure above.

 

[florida95fzj]

Check for spark. I changed an engine and there was a wire to the coil that was not connected. It took a long time to diagnose.

Will do. I will get the test light out and see what I get.

Are you sure the distributor is in the right place? You seemed a little unsure above.

I think so now. After removing it and reinstalling it a number of times, it seems pretty clear when it's pointing at 11 vs. being ahead one tooth or behind one tooth. Originally I was not sure if being a tooth off would be so slight that I would not be able to tell.

When I pull a wire to test for spark, I'll pull #1 spark plug and confirm I am not after 180 degrees out after trying it both ways.

 

[florida95fzj]

I ended up using my compression tester's screw in hose for spark plug hole #1 to verify I felt pressure to find the compression stroke at TDC. Turns out my distributor was installed correctly.

My issue was the #1 plug wire was not fully seated on the plug. Dumb mistake.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

 

[florida95fzj]

After getting it to start, I’m back in a no start situation. The starter cranks but the engine won’t fire up.

I am getting a p0335 and p0340. Crankshaft and camshaft position sensor codes. I didn’t touch these sensors during my overhaul but did replace the broken distributor electrical connector. I checked the pin / color assignments and they are correct.

Does anyone know if some other no start cause could cause these codes at the same time?

Thanks

Edit: I tested the distributor housing connector per the FSM and have the proper resistance for the P0335. I also swapped back in the old distributor cap and rotor. No luck.

 

[cu52]

After getting it to start, I’m back in a no start situation. The starter cranks but the engine won’t fire up.

I am getting a p0335 and p0340. Crankshaft and camshaft position sensor codes. I didn’t touch these sensors during my overhaul but did replace the broken distributor electrical connector. I checked the pin / color assignments and they are correct.

Does anyone know if some other no start cause could cause these codes at the same time?

Thanks

Edit: I tested the distributor housing connector per the FSM and have the proper resistance for the P0335. I also swapped back in the old distributor cap and rotor. No luck.

Did you ever find a solution to your problem? My 95 just started doing this exact same thing. Seems to be a no start when it has recently been run. Same 2 codes.

 

[florida95fzj]

Did you ever find a solution to your problem? My 95 just started doing this exact same thing. Seems to be a no start when it has recently been run. Same 2 codes.

Yes, it was the distributor connector for sure. It was not obvious from looking at it but that was the fix.