NO CEL/ CRANK NO START

[eevrek]

Hello, new 80 series owner and had an intermittent crank no start. Coil wire wasn’t properly seated and the next day it started perfectly and also drove it around for a couple hours with stops. CEL was also on but now isn’t. Car just cranks. Efi relay clicks, new fusible links, new fuses. Started last night and came to it this morning and no cel anymore

 

[Fj80oregon]

What year and model? Your saying the cel does not appear when cranking or you cel went away?

 

[jonheld]

CEL should be illuminated with the key in the ON/RUN position BEFORE cranking the starter.
@eevrek your description is confusing.

 

[eevrek]

What year and model? Your saying the cel does not appear when cranking or you cel went away?

It went away. Had the bulb replaced. Check engine light worked on the on position. Today, the cel isnt on, on the on position anymore which means it just cranks and no start.

 

[eevrek]

CEL should be illuminated with the key in the ON/RUN position BEFORE cranking the starter.
@eevrek your description is confusing.

The cel isn’t on when on the “on” position. Used to be but now it isn’t.

 

[eevrek]

What year and model? Your saying the cel does not appear when cranking or you cel went away?

1994 landcruiser

 

[Fj80oregon]

Well if you don’t have a cell in ON then your truck will never start, do you have a FSM? There are tons of threads on this issue. First check your engine codes with the paper clip method(google if you don’t know). Second follow the steps in the FSM for no start, or find a good thread and follow those steps.

 

[jonheld]

The cel isn’t on when on the “on” position. Used to be but now it isn’t.

Have you messed with the AFM at all?
If you have a voltmeter, check for +12 at pin 12 with the key ON/RUN on the diagnostic connector on the firewall.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Thread '80 Series Engine Turns, but doesn't start up - MY 1994'

Jan 8, 2024

Hi Everyone,

I'm hoping there is some sort of checklist that's out there to what should be checked to ensure nothing is missed.

So as the title says, the engine turns but doesn't start up. No check engine lights are on. The one odd thing is that the stereo no longer turns on (stock stereo). I've recently installed a new EFI relay to ensure that that wasn't the cause. Any thoughts or ideas on where else to start looking?

Thanks,
Rich

• rsocalguy07
• 80 series engine series start start up
• Replies: 23
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

Read this thread it’s decent

 

[eevrek]

Well if you don’t have a cell in ON then your truck will never start, do you have a FSM? There are tons of threads on this issue. First check your engine codes with the paper clip method(google if you don’t know). Second follow the steps in the FSM for no start, or find a good thread and follow those stepsWill

Well if you don’t have a cell in ON then your truck will never start, do you have a FSM? There are tons of threads on this issue. First check your engine codes with the paper clip method(google if you don’t know). Second follow the steps in the FSM for no start, or find a good thread and follow those steps.

Will it throw codes to me even if the CEL doesn’t come on in the on position?

 

[jonheld]

Will it throw codes to me even if the CEL doesn’t come on in the on position?

no.

 

[ppc]

Will it throw codes to me even if the CEL doesn’t come on in the on position?

As Jon says no. With no CEL it means the ECM is not being supplied power.

 

[LongDuck]

Briefly; because it seems like you're new here - most common causes of crank, no-start are the absence of gas in the tank (), the EFI relay in the engine bay, which can prevent the CEL from coming on BEFORE you try to crank, and less likely is the AM1 fuse in the engine bay which can get corroded and result in a proper CEL before crank, but still crank, no start.

Try searching here on "crank, no start", and grab a drink. You'll have plenty to read on the why's and how's. Welcome aboard,

 

[eevrek]

As Jon says no. With no CEL it means the ECM is not being supplied power.

Have you messed with the AFM at all?
If you have a voltmeter, check for +12 at pin 12 with the key ON/RUN on the diagnostic connector on the firewall.

View attachment 4149478

I

Have you messed with the AFM at all?
If you have a voltmeter, check for +12 at pin 12 with the key ON/RUN on the diagnostic connector on the firewall.

View attachment 4149478

I put the multimeter black on 3 and red on 12 and was getting over 12v (my battery is dead but used a jump starter and put the car in the “on” position. What does that indicate?

 

[jonheld]

I

I put the multimeter black on 3 and red on 12 and was getting over 12v (my battery is dead but used a jump starter and put the car in the “on” position. What does that indicate?

It indicates that the ECU is triggering the EFI relay as it should and that all sensors SHOULD be getting +12.
Have you unplugged or attempted to unplug ANYTHING under the hood while troubleshooting?

 

[eevrek]

It indicates that the ECU is triggering the EFI relay as it should and that all sensors SHOULD be getting +12.
Have you unplugged or attempted to unplug ANYTHING under the hood while troubleshooting

It indicates that the ECU is triggering the EFI relay as it should and that all sensors SHOULD be getting +12.
Have you unplugged or attempted to unplug ANYTHING under the hood while troubleshooting?

yes, basically everything. I wanted to check everything. I made a mistake of removing those 2 screws from the VAF so I put it back in.I just replaced the fusible link and it’s still having the same symptom. I placed a jump wire from b+ to e1 and it was good, w to body for the check engine light and it illuminated, b+ to fuel pump and it was good. Now Im trying to find all the grounds to the engine.

What should I do?

 

[jonheld]

yes, basically everything. I wanted to check everything. I made a mistake of removing those 2 screws from the VAF so I put it back

Well OK then. You made the common mistake and likely tore wires off the traces internal to the AFM.
To verify, remove the connector from the AFM by lifting the spring clip on the connector. With the connector removed from the AFM, see if the CEL comes back on with the key in the ON position.
If it does, then the AFM is the issue.

 

[eevrek]

Well OK then. You made the common mistake and likely tore wires off the traces internal to the AFM.
To verify, remove the connector from the AFM by lifting the spring clip on the connector. With the connector removed from the AFM, see if the CEL comes back on with the key in the ON position.
If it does, then the AFM is the issue.

Thank you sir, I disconnected it and the check engine light is back on! Do I buy a new AFM? Or can I repair it with some solder? I believe I’ve seen a post where they soldered the pins back on.

 

[jonheld]

Thank you sir, I disconnected it and the check engine light is back on! Do I buy a new AFM? Or can I repair it with some solder? I believe I’ve seen a post where they soldered the pins back on.

Depending on the internal damage, it can be repaired if you're proficient with a soldering iron.
OEM AFMs are no longer available, so you could look for a used one in the classifieds section.

 

[eevrek]

Depending on the internal damage, it can be repaired if you're proficient with a soldering iron.
OEM AFMs are no longer available, so you could look for a used one in the classifieds section.

Okay thank you! Life saver.