Hi. I just bought a 2000 for my wife yesterday. 73,400 miles, $19,400.
The parking brake didn’t grab when we bought it, I knew this and figured the cable just needed to be tightened.
Well today while I was messing around with it, I pulled the lever all the way up again and then it wouldn’t stay down!! It appears to be spring loaded to help the lever lift easier but now it won’t lie flat; instead it magically rises by itself a few inches.
Did something break?? Any ideas??
Thanks for any help, and glad to be here! I’ve been an 80 owner for many years. The 100 is nice!!
Well, inaddition to the malfunctioning parking brake it appears that my 2000 has the infamous cracked manifold. Sounded like the pass side manifold was making the sound but it went away after it warmed up a bit, must be in the early stages if it is indeed cracked.
Does one side typically crack first??
Has anyone had any luck getting the manifolds replaced under an extended warranty purchased when buying a used vehicle?
I didn't buy one but am investigating if I still can get one and whether it will cover exhaust manifolds.
The LC engine will make a ticking sound when first starting - is it possible this is what you are hearing? If it is a cracked manifold I'd get back to the dealer ASAP and try to get the deal undone within the first 48 hours.
There are a few threads on the site in both te 80 and 100 listings that talk about the famous parking brakes. In both of my trucks the rear levers which ingage the brake have a history of rusting and locking up. I suggest you look on the rear wheels and investigate. They will need to be taken apart cleaned and greased.
There are a few threads on the site in both te 80 and 100 listings that talk about the famous parking brakes. In both of my trucks the rear levers which ingage the brake have a history of rusting and locking up. I suggest you look on the rear wheels and investigate. They will need to be taken apart cleaned and greased.
Before posting I rolled the rear end of the 100 up on ramps and took a close look at the cable and springs/levers where it goes into the rear wheel hubs. I'm not sure how the rear parking brake works so I'm not sure If I'm using the right terminology. We had a 2002 Tahoe and the rear parking brake was actually a small drum brake within the center portion of the brake rotor. Anyway, I sprayed it all with penetrating oil just to be sure but everything was freely moving. I don't believe the issue is at the rear wheels, it really feels like the issue is at the lever.
I suppose I'll finish my first thread by posting the solution I found myself, perhaps it will help someone in the future.
The reason my brake lever didn't go all the way down was because there was lots of slack in the cable. Contrary to a post I found searching, there is no adjustment at the handle. The cable adjustment is at rear of the vehicle and easily accessible. Took out the slack and it works fine now.
Not 100% sure whether I have a cracked manifold or not, I'll keep an ear on it.
Our passenger side manifold went first. The driver's side went (last year) at aorund 25K miles later. I'd definitely get back to the seller and look reimbursement on the manifold.
If it was a Toyota dealer, they are familiar with this problem on the TLC.
Look in the original warranty booklet. The exhaust manifolds are considered emissions items that are covered under the emissions warranty. "California Emissions Warranty" is through 75Kmiles. My dealer covered the driver's side at 65K something miles. I'm in Mass.
Now you've seen the cable splits when it gets to the rear axle, sending a cable to each side. I could see the left lever was stuck on when Wifey pulled the lever up and down. The right side was responding fine. I banged in the left lever and we drove home.
I brought it to an indy shop who found the crank lever inside the wheel was worn and wouldn't pivot. Replaced the crank, springs and replaced the shoes and rotors while it was there. Didn't have the time to do it myself.
