new rotors & pads, surging is returning

[mason]

I began developing a wobble in the steering wheel and slight pulsing or surging when braking. Had the front rotors turned and put new OEM pads on (front only). Right rotor was a lot worse, and almost at minimum spec.

Couple of months later, it began doing it again, this time worse. Steering wheel wobbling pretty bad. Put on new OEM rotors and pads. Perfect for a few months, now surging again, and slight wobble in the steering wheel. Front right is squealing, and squealing gets loud and soft with the rotation of the wheel and the pulse in the pedal.

I looked at the rotors and pads, look perfect. Wheel bearings are all at proper torque and looked good when I was changing out rotors.

This is driving me nuts. Any clues?

And I didn't change out the rears, but am close to doing that. Since problem went away everytime I changed pads or rotors, I figured it wasn't anything to do with the rear.

Thanks.

 

[TX_TLC]

I'm currently tracking down a similar wobble in the steering wheel. What kind of driving to you typically do in the 80? Highway? Traffic? Offroad?

 

[d0ubledown]

maybe a caliper rebuild is in order? sticky binders perhaps. also, are you lugs torqued properly? incorrectly installed and overtorqued lugs can lead to premature warpage...although i wouldnt think it would happen as quickly as you state.

alignment in check also?

 

[mason]

What kind of driving to you typically do in the 80? Highway? Traffic? Offroad?

It's my only vehicle, so almost all is city/highway.

maybe a caliper rebuild is in order? sticky binders perhaps. also, are you lugs torqued properly? alignment in check also?

I've never used a torque wrench on lugs, so it's a possibility, but I'm pretty anal about my pattern and using the same tightness. Haven't had an alignment done as I wasn't suspecting anything wrong, but it's a possibility. Could a sticly caliper cause this?

 

[heckler]

I am going through the same thing. You might to try and change the tie rod ends.

 

[anderaa13]

If your rotors were warped and you had them turned they're probably warped again. This is fairly common. If my rotors were warped I would just replace them. I'm assuming the "wobble" only happens when braking.

aaron

 

[mason]

You might to try and change the tie rod ends.

There is very little to no play

If your rotors were warped and you had them turned they're probably warped again. This is fairly common. If my rotors were warped I would just replace them. I'm assuming the "wobble" only happens when braking. aaron

I replaced with new OEM rotors and pads about 6 months ago. Problem started again slowly a couple of months ago and is getting worse.

 

[concretejungle]

Mason, did you seat in your new pads? That is important as pad material will build up on the rotor causing that pulsing. I had the same issue, until i took the new pads and seated them in. No issues since...knock-on-wood.

Try to make a couple of real hard stops from about 45 MPH, and then let the rotors cool. See if that helps.

 

[anderaa13]

oops, should have read your whole post. I know you said the wheel bearings are at proper torque, but have you actually checked for play?

aaron

 

[Scamper]

My vote is with a sticking caliper. The right was worn more than the left because it was constantly braking. After turning your old rotor down and replacing the pads, your caliper still sticks and you'll generate a lot of heat to the rotor, warping it yet again. A turned rotor is probably even more likely to warp. After replacing the old rotor with new, but without fixing the caliper, you've just warped your new rotor.

Either rebuild or get new calipers (both PS and DS). You should probably replace the rotor(s) too since I've not found them to recover from being warped once they go, but it wouldn't hurt to try if you want to; just means you have dive in again if it still pulses. If you find that the pulsation only happens after you've driven a while, you may be able to keep the old rotors since they were only deforming due to the heat generated by the sticking caliper.

 

[peepers]

my reply to these wobble threads is always the same but its pretty effective. walk through every thing as landtank indicates in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/137411-front-axle-evaulation-faq.html

also, do you have a lift? have you ever checked the bolts on your front panhard rod? check those, mine were loose (after intsalling Slee's) and it lead to wobble.

the other time i had wobble it was my wheel bearings, on one side. opened it up, re torqued them and it went away... for a little bit. new bearings in? solved the problem.

 

[mason]

Mason, did you seat in your new pads?

No I didn't. Didn't even know to do it till now!

I know you said the wheel bearings are at proper torque, but have you actually checked for play?

Actually I'm always checking for play now, as they were loose when I started this brake adventure last year

My vote is with a sticking caliper.

Very good rationalization on that. I had never even considered it

also, do you have a lift? have you ever checked the bolts on your front panhard rod? check those, mine were loose (after intsalling Slee's) and it lead to wobble.

Great LandTank thread. No lift, and I hadn't checked the panhard rod ends. Right now, I'm getting some cribbing so my floor jack and jackstands will allow me to unload the whole front suspension system so I can remove the wheels and check for any play on all front suspension components.

Thanks for the responses fellas.

 

[photogod]

Stuck or slow caliper piston perhaps.

 

[Grench]

No I didn't. Didn't even know to do it till now!

That's my vote. Failure to properly bed/seat the brake pads can result in uneven heating/cooling on the rotors and warp them.

New rotors, new pads and properly seat them. Search and you will find -extensive- writeups on the proper way to bed in new brakes. It is -not- just 'stop hard twice from 45mph'. It is an involved process when done right.

There is a good shot that if you're getting pulsing in the pedal it may already be too late for your new rotors. I.e. the rotor got heated unevenly, cooled unevenly and is now warped. You can still try and see if that unevenness can be worked out of them.

They call it bedding/seating brake pads, but I think it also re-tempers the rotors a bit. The rotors get mighty hot in this process.

IMHO YMMV

 

[cheap 40]

That's my vote. Failure to properly bed/seat the brake pads can result in uneven heating/cooling on the rotors and warp them.

New rotors, new pads and properly seat them. Search and you will find -extensive- writeups on the proper way to bed in new brakes. It is -not- just 'stop hard twice from 45mph'. It is an involved process when done right.

There is a good shot that if you're getting pulsing in the pedal it may already be too late for your new rotors. I.e. the rotor got heated unevenly, cooled unevenly and is now warped. You can still try and see if that unevenness can be worked out of them.

They call it bedding/seating brake pads, but I think it also re-tempers the rotors a bit. The rotors get mighty hot in this process.

IMHO YMMV

I wholeheartedly agree!!! A few years ago I started chasing a "warped rotor" on my Civic. Replaced rotors/pads, worked great for about 6 weeks, then "warped" again. Autozone replaced them, 6 weeks later same thing!! O'Reilly's rotors will work better, right? Nope. Same thing. While digging for God-knows-what on here for one of the Cruisers, I ran across a thread like this one detailing the theory and process behind bedding the brakes. I thought "why not - I'm not out anything giving it a try". I've never had a problem with "warped rotors" on any of my vehicles again.

Long story short - bed the pads properly before throwing another penny at it. Eliminate the easy stuff first and if there still is a problem, now you are armed with more information to aid troubleshooting. HTH

Tony

 

[mason]

Looks like there's several votes for caliper problems and not bedding the pads. Will the bedding process fix or reduce the damage already done to the rotor?

And why is it only on one side all three times? Could it be a combination of both a bad caliper and not being bedded that has caused right front problems?

 

[Grench]

Looks like there's several votes for caliper problems and not bedding the pads. Will the bedding process fix or reduce the damage already done to the rotor?

And why is it only on one side all three times? Could it be a combination of both a bad caliper and not being bedded that has caused right front problems?

It could be. It could also be a stuck caliper on the left side that is preventing it from engaging well and resulting in the right side doing all of the work.

IMHO... start with what you know. You know that they weren't bedded properly. Can bedding them now correct for it? No idea.

I would pull the wheels and inspect the pad wear to see how bad the difference is between the two sides. If one of the calipers isn't engaging, it may be visible in the pad wear. It is a good opportunity to place a true flat edge against the rotors to see how much warping has taken place. If you can see it on a ruler edge... at that point take pictures.

Remember to use chock blocks. Even in park with a wheel in the air these trucks can roll.

I am not a mechanic. Anything you do with servicing your own brakes is your own responsibility. The above is IMHO and YMMV.

 

[Cruisin'Carolina]

I ordered new 100 series pads, rotors, and some other bits. Then I realized I should probably (118K) replace the bearings as well, and then ordered the front axle service parts I did not have already from Dan-the-Man-wid-da-plan.

Since I'm there already, I think I want to rebuild the calipers (I'll search first) or order new just to have everything right.

All of this due to mileage on truck, the fact my fronts have been turned X3 in their life.

My only symptom right now is a slight dragging(onoff) with no brake pedal. PO's records indicate similar sounds before that were "solved" by brakes and bearing repack/tighten.

I just don't want to have to go in again for a long time.

Man this is bog-ole pile-o parts for a one banana!