New Member - 2002 LX470 Roast Me

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Truck is looking great! DId you do much with the rust underneath?
I used VHT rust converter on all the areas I could reach. Unfortunately, either I didn't store the cans properly and they got too cold or hot, or maybe they were too old because they're no longer available to purchase. Either way, it didn't last and I'm looking at going over everything with a wire brush attachment on my angle grinder and doing a few coats of ospho. Luckily, there is much less humidity up here. I haven't been driving in rainy days or weather but hope to have it treated before winter.

I did attempt to fix the AC system. There was a leak on high pressure line running to the rear. Blocked off the AC lines in the engine bay. Still not holding vacuum so I will grab a tank of nitrogen and add some more dye to try and sus out where the other leaks are.

Forgot to mention my 3rd brake light seal, the 20 year old foam stuff, was completely trashed and was allowing water into the hatch. Got a $5 roll of butyl tape weatherstripping from home Depot and sealed it back up.

My sunroof also had a leak. I pulled the headliner back and found a few dried wet spots all around the sunroof. Figured my seal was bad. Replaced the seal, but the leak is still coming in. From some other posts, I believe the leak is coming through the plastic trim glued to the top of the sunroof (the trim that is exposed to the weather). Will apply some 3M weather sealant all around the trim piece. Fingers crossed it makes the fix.
 
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Some pics from the suspension conversion.

Ended up cutting out the fronts with a reciprocating saw cause the bolts were completely gone.

Cut some holes through the floor panel to access the rears.
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Finally found a space to get the timing belt changed. I was blown away it was still the original belt. 143k miles, 23 years. Who needs a chain when belts perform like that 😂. Wish I had another Toyota belt to replace. Wasn't too bad of a job using the AISIN kit.

Went ahead and did water pump, fan bracket, tensioner, and heater T's. Glad I did the Ts too. One crumbled when I went to pull it.

My fan shroud did decide to split in half when I was putting it back in. Just using the half the coolant reservoir attaches to.

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Also went ahead and applied ospho to address the rust followed by fluid film (lanolin). Need to give another go at coating inside the frame and my rusty rocker panels.

Took it to Les Schwab for an alignment after the suspension swap. Their report:

"Recommend replacing inner/outer tie rods prior to alignment; attempted to turn lock but w/ excessive heat/force and couldn't turn; also recommend RF CV axle; leaking"

No alignment, but appreciated the free diagnostic 😅

Bright side, alignment doesn't look too bad regardless.

So, I ordered a new rack and pinion (there's a 25% off on Toyota parts at a few dealers right now), new outer tie rods (OEM at amayama.com is too cheap to pass up), and a pair of new CV axles. Not sure if the ones on mine are aftermarket or not so figured I'd get a new set and if the old ones are OEM I'll just rebuild them.

Got a rack n pinion gasket and valve gasket set to rebuild the old rack. Sounds nice to have backups of the essentials. Went ahead and threw in new rotors, front and rear since they're cheap right now and I may as well before I install new brake pads (AISIN front ADVICS rear). Realized the parking brakes are rusted open. Included new springs, bell arms, housing, and dust covers in the order. Figured I better get it in working order before my master cylinder inevitably craps out.

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Also swapped in new Denso TT spark plugs and ignition coils. RockAuto was out of the NGKs.

When I went to check the old plugs, first one I got into I saw the ignition coil was cracked. By the time I got to the last one, I'd find all eight cracked. Hefty price for an 8 pack. But it definitely runs better now.

I have parts to repack the wheel bearings. Saw kits on cruiser teq but went ahead and just ordered parts individually from amayama.

Last big issue is the leak in my exhaust. The assembly isn't secure to the catalytic portion and it has a gap where they connect sure to a broken bolt. Should be able to drill it out easy enough and tap a new bolt in.

And a quick update on the key situation. Turns out the cheapo transmitter included in my knockoff keys are super weak and they were just having a hard time connecting to the radio receiver. I finally got them to link and I can remote lock and unlock... no further than two feet from the truck 😂.

I have an antenna and some wire to solder into the receiver and get some more range. That'll have to wait until I get the mechanical stuff fixed up.

Took some time to change the transmission, differentials, brake, and transfer cases fluids last month. Snapped the bolts on the little skid covering the transfer case. But I'm getting pretty good at styling and taking new bolts in.
 
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