New Guy Center Diff Button Question

[mikeyd]

I've only had my "00 LC for a couple weeks, so I am not that knowledgeable on the vehicle.

Since buying it, I've installed a new alternator, cabin air filters (had none), new wiper blades and a new radio head unit. New speakers are in my garage waiting for a chance to go in.

When I press the CDL button, no (new) lights on dash come on. With the car running (radio off) I can hear a faint click sound. The click sounds like it is coming from the passenger footwell area'ish.

I shifted the H-N-L from High to N and to Low. I pulled forward and backwards on my street a few times. I do not have time today to find some dirt and drive around offroad.

Also, my LC has 193K, but is in great shape.

How do I know the CDL button is doing what it is supposed to do?

Thanks, MikeyD

 

[mikeyd]

I am reading through a bunch of search results right now too.

I pulled the speedo cluster this weekend to route a BT mic. I checked the CDL bulb and it was not blown.

 

[mikeyd]

I am going to follow the advice in the thread below and report back.



CDL Light - "I switched the button on/off several times while pulling forward slowly each time. I also shifted into 4lo and 4hi several times. I got the lights to come on and CDL to engage once, but when I took turned it back off I couldn't get it back. Makes me think the previous owner never actuated the assembly. I guess I'll keep trying, but the lights obviously work when the unit engages."

 

[PhillyLumpLump]

The clicking is the relay and it is in your glove box next to your ecu. If that's working then your actuator should be getting power. I've been having a tough time to get mine to actually work so I'm looking at replacing. I have the maintenance manual so if you cab pull it you can rig a test circuit using your heater relay and test the operation and function. If that works then you may have a wiring issue

 

[LandyAndy]

Same issue with my 2000. No lights turn on and seemingly nothing happens when I press the CDL button.

 

[PhillyLumpLump]

You can also tell if it is engaged by literally trying to turn hard. If it bonds up...becomes resistant, starts chirping you are engaged. I wouldn't recommend doing that too much because of the stress it causes but a good way to tell if it's on or not

 

[montegofd3s]

You can also tell if it is engaged by literally trying to turn hard. If it bonds up...becomes resistant, starts chirping you are engaged. I wouldn't recommend doing that too much because of the stress it causes but a good way to tell if it's on or not

I would do what Philly said in a shell/rock parking lot. It is easy to tell in there and it still gives so the risk of damaging anything is nonexistent.

 

[Sceanzo]

Probably bound up from never being used. I've tapped on the actuators *gently* with a small hammer before and have had luck freeing them up. Do this at your own discretion

 

[mikeyd]

I found my problem. I crawled under the 100 and noticed a dangling plug head. It was on the passenger side where the CDL actuator resides. The female end of the plug had a portion of the male on broken off and still "connected." The actuator switch appeared to be unharmed and the prongs were exposed (b/c the plastic was in the female plug head).

I popped off the broken male end piece. Stuck the female end back on the switch prongs and I'm back in the game.

CDL switch and 4x4 functions as it should, appropriate dash lights come on too.

The only problem is the plug head is not snapped in place. It could easily (and probably will) fall off. I am planning on holding it in place with a glob of hardening high-temp gasket maker, instead of fighting to install a new switch.

Anyone see an issue with my solution?

MikeyD

 

[Rigger]

Sounds like you reconnected a broken connection. I say good detective work.

For a permanent fix, You could either replace the connectors or repair (JB Weld?) them. Or snip them all off and solder the wires together?

 

[mikeyd]

The dangling plug...plugs into the switch on the transmission. I could properly fix it by purchasing a new actuator switch.

The location makes that a complicated repair, so I am just looking for a simpler solution.

Sounds like you reconnected a broken connection. I say good detective work.

For a permanent fix, You could either replace the connectors or repair (JB Weld?) them. Or snip them all off and solder the wires together?

 

[Sherpa100]

I found my problem. I crawled under the 100 and noticed a dangling plug head. It was on the passenger side where the CDL actuator resides. The female end of the plug had a portion of the male on broken off and still "connected." The actuator switch appeared to be unharmed and the prongs were exposed (b/c the plastic was in the female plug head).

I popped off the broken male end piece. Stuck the female end back on the switch prongs and I'm back in the game.

CDL switch and 4x4 functions as it should, appropriate dash lights come on too.

The only problem is the plug head is not snapped in place. It could easily (and probably will) fall off. I am planning on holding it in place with a glob of hardening high-temp gasket maker, instead of fighting to install a new switch.

Anyone see an issue with my solution?

MikeyD

if you have a chance would you mind taking a pic of where this plug is. I have the same issue

 

[mikeyd]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_7650-2-jpg.536701/

 

[mikeyd]

The arrow points to the spot where my plug was CDL plug was broken off and dangling. I found it was easiest to see and reach with my feet towards the front bumper and my head just behind the "Transfer Indicator Switch".