New engine or fix it? (1 Viewer)

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Jul 16, 2014
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Hello everyone,


I been working on the exterior of my bj40 in the last 3 years, now I would like to work on the diesel b engine, there are two complete overhauling so far, one in 1991 another 3 years ago including replacement of the head engine.

I am in Costa Rica where is not difficult to find a good engine (b14,b15), My BJ40 drives "fast" and good on flat roads and regular hills, but sometimes I need 1st gear without power to complete very steep hills, I remember there was around 450-500 "not sure" pounds on the compression test!! I want to make another to collect more information before I do something, but I have some questions:

1) Do I need to rebuild the injection pump, (please see attached, is located all the way to the right position is that normal, I heard the mechanic do that to control the smoke emition but I have no Idea about it. Maybe I need to include a new diaphragm and some part between the engine and the injection pump, in Costa Rica Spanish, that engine part is known as "ciclo avance" the mechanic say is a part with two small weights that control the times I am no sure to understand that, anyway I ask already and I can get a good one (second hand or used) for only US$50. Besides that, does anyone know where to find a brand new diaphragm? In case I need to fix these parts and rebuilt the admit ion pump.

2) I am using 7.50*16" tires, are those tires too big and make the car go slow on hills; maybe I need to go back for the originals 15"


3) The engine is taking long time to warm up, maybe a new thermostat, new gausses and radiator cap.


3) I prefer to use the original engine, but I can´t drive too far, so that is why I want a new engine, if I decide to do many things, I will spend the same amount of a modern engine (b14, b15)

4) Also I need help to build the bottle jack rack to hold it behind driver´s seat. D
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oes anyone have a picture?


Thanks a lot in advance for any help and time. Please check some pictures attached, including a shocks system that my mechanic did for my car in the front, very soft!! The other Toyota on the pictures is a 10 years older cousin, first Hilux 1971 Gas 2R engine "FUTURE PROJECT"


Sorry for my English! Pura vida.
 
Joined
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Perth Western Australia
You dont necessarily have to rebuild the pump when you rebuild an engine but its good to have it bench tested and have the injectors rebuilt if the spray pattern is not perfect.

The "ciclo advance" is probably the automatic advance on the pump timing.
I cant seem to find my B diesel manual right now.

If it has 450 psi of compression it shouldn't need a rebuild.
Maybe the glow plugs art your cause of slow warm ups?

The 16 inch wheels were standard on the BJ40 in Australia I think,but a 15inch wheel would make it accelerate a bit faster.

The diaphram part number should be 22303-47010 if its the same as an australian BJ40
Nice looking and very clean old rig
 
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Thanks a lot, I like the original engine, when I heard a different engine on a bj40 its just a empty feeling for me, and even more if the engine is not Toyota !! Gracias de nuevo!
 
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Joined
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Hi Roble. Beautiful BJ40 there!

Here's a pic of the diaphragm:
InjectDiaphragm2 .jpg


I find it better to ask for the Denso part number (090580-0041) from a diesel injection shop because that's generally much cheaper than getting it from Toyota.

Interesting that you've got your battery earth lead going directly to your intake manifold. I've never seen that done before. It's definitely makes it short and neat and I guess it's OK that way. (There's a gasket between the manifold and cylinder head of course so all the current, which can be over 200 amps while cranking, must travel through all your manifold nuts and studs.)

And the addition of the coil springs is interesting too.

As for your injection pump, I take it you're saying that it has been twisted one way as far as it will go to try and control exhaust smoke and that your mechanic suspects the automatic advance/retard mechanism as being faulty.

I don't know about that. (They seem to be a very reliable component in general.)

Perhaps the timing cogs were not lined up correctly when your engine was last overhauled?

As for your tyres, I ran 7.50 x 16 crossply tyres for many years and still run the metric equivalent radial tyre (which is 235/85 R16)
:beer:
 
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10660548_10202510044981036_537893024_n.jpg


Hi Tom, thanks for your help and information, I do not understand how the lining and timing works, but I heard from the mecanic that the position was necessary that way but I am not clear about it. I think the car is running good but can run a little better so I want to go slow in order to find the problem, from where I see the problem could be:

- Admition of Diesel, after fixing the engine I rebuilt the injectors, but I can see the first cylinder is leaking a little diesel over?? besides the diaphragm.

- heating problem to burn the diesel inside the engine (new thermostate by the way how do I know the rigth size for this part? also change gauses and radiator cap to prevent leak warm water or steam, radiator is in great conditions.

So do you consider necessary to change all these components to provide more efficent conditions to the engine?

Today I had found these diaphragm
10660548_10202510044981036_537893024_n.jpg
for only US$20 made in Italy (see picture), what do you think? I have not buy it yet!!

Thanks for everything I had learn a lot, is so interesting for my all the information, I will post more pictures of the springs system !


Saludos !!
 
Joined
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The thermostat you want must look like this:
Thermostat1.jpg


The main valve (controlling the engine temperature) is at the top but that lower part controls the oil-cooler and heater coolant flows as far as I can work out.

An engine should certainly run better if it is maintained at the correct temperature by the correct thermostat.
You can search on the part number 90916-03039 or 90916-03058

:beer:
 
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Thank for the picture and details Tom, around my area I found available 90916-03102, maybe I should order it online.?!
 
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Hola Tom, it is recommend it by Toyota parts dealer in my town, I will preffer to get 90916-03039 or 90916-03058, but they guarantee is a Replacement for 90916-03058. this site also recommend it:

http://www.tojo4wdcentre.com.au/par...rmostat-landcruiser-40-70-73-series-b-3b-13bt

How to make sure is suitable ?? do you suggest to buy it from another part dealer online?

I was just wondering how you knew it was correct (because with the limited searching I had done, it wasn't clear to me that it was correct).

But your Toyota dealer says it is the modern replacement for the number I quoted, and that web site you found agrees, and it's got the feature I pointed out in my photo ..... so I reckon you should be fine using it..

:beer:
 
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Gracias Tom, I feel much better !!, I want to share this "home made test" between the old thermostat (non original part) vrs (Toyota part) the two parts open way up at 82°C, but the old one close off later and probably leaving room for water comming form the radiator and not neccesarry keeping the same temperature inside the engine, but the original part close faster, so that means is controling better the temperature on the engine. :)
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This final picture is after few minutes when the water is not so warm, the non original is open, the original is full closed
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:clap: !! I am way far to be expert, like you and other BJ´s around here, but happy drivers for sure!!:steer:

Nice test too!!
 

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